Thats more what im trying to get him to do.. Hes not bad at turning.. But stubburn in his ways.. Lol what i need to really do is get a lathe, do it.. That way, like always, he will try and one up me lol
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If your speaking of tom, im definatly going to do it that way to finish this current build, your right it is a matter of preference though.. Im talking more about... Eh.. Nevermind.. Science and stuff.. Idea for this thread is lost... Lol
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Lmao.. 56.7 huh? Breakin out the protractor are we? Lol I saw that video tom, thanks for posting...
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But... Wait.. There a benifit other then aesthetics? Ive found that there less of a chance of the thread pulling out from over burnishing (we have all done it...) Or baving to straighten a guide to far when its tucked at a 90.. Meaning it holds tighter, or am i finally loosing my mind? In theory, pulling to a 90 should give you less surface area of contact.. But more room for correction loosening
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Well, thats that then lol.. Thanks..
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I guess thats a good way to word the topic.. Lol I pull my thread through with the loop when finishing a wrap at 45°.. Seems to pull smoother.. Expecially with metallics.. But that isnt what im really talking about... Im talking before you cut the tag end off, is it best to leave the thread at a 45°, or at a 90° along the length of the blank? I think it looks more professional to tug it to
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Thats a good idea and nice setup.. My brothers lathe has a mori 2 tailstock.. Its also a 1939 Craftsman "De-lux" comination 10" lathe.. So not nearly as nice and shiny lol.. I will pass that image on to him though.. He did just buy a 3 point steady rest..
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Ron thats a valid point.. I wonder.. What wall thinkness do you pro's think is acceptable to avoid cracking or full failure for the life of the rod.. Assuming the handle, along with the rod, has been properly taken care, and stored between outings properly? Also, for you guys who do turn your own wooden handles.. What is an acceptable moisture percentage? When doing custom countertops we used
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Copy that.. I tend to over thing things...
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Ive been trying to get my brother to turn some handles for me for over 6 months.. All of a sudden he spends 300$ on stuff to do it.. Lol I seem to recall a discussion i had a while back about the possibly of 'hard spots' when dealing with carbon fiber grips.. If memory serves, whlever that was that brought that up talked about applying a foam, or neoprene barrier on wooden handles to reduce t
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You should make sure there isnt much wiggle room.. Haveing them close to the same taper.. The epoxy should help fill any slight void id assume.. Definatly no need to cut it off though.. Apply the epoxy leberally.. Better to have to much and wipe it away then not enough.. I personally havent had to do a repair like this in the butt section, but the tighter the fit. The less chance of failure when
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-----Good youtube link Tom. I take pleasure in pulling the thread off by unrolling it so I knick one end on one thread, and then unroll the rest. Kinda like popping bubble wrap in the pleasure---- Your not the only one.. Lol. Me too... I try and not use heat unless completly necessary.. I may be wrong... But depending on the epoxy brand, and OD of the selected area, it would have to vary on sp
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My heart goes out to you and your family.
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You say you make roller stands for the crb system? I burned through a V stand felt and melted a bit of the stand before i noticed.. Ive been contemplating figuring out how to attach rollers to the stands....
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Thank you lynn.. Means alot
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Just wanted to finalize this thread.. I put 2 coats down, ran out of gloss would ha e liked to use 3 but it turned out very well.. The 3rd would have been for aesthetics, as the first and second coat fully soaked and sealed everything nicely.. The client was ecstatic.. He couldnt believe what i did with what he gave me.. He was extremly happy with the results.. I couldnt see putting epoxy ove
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I know.. I was just worried about the guides not being sealed from salt, gloss is so thin you cant get any build out of it.. I know thats the whole point of glossing, but guide protection from corrosion is more important then looks.. Even though he said hes never going to use it, just make it a display rod.. But that doesnt mean his kid wont 15 years from now... Norm suggested using a needle
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Copy that lynn... I may take you up on that show and tell... Im glossing it..
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You are right, the finish would work either matte, or gloss... But im trying to preserve a look without reducing durability, functionality, and longevity of the finish.. For example spar varnish passed my thought.. But about 5 or so years needing a recoat wont work for this one.. Plus i want clear..
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Hi guys, not sure what to use here... Im using CP thread, so i have that nice satin look, wraps look georgeous... Id love to preserve that look.. The wraps are black with metallic silver tape spaced into 3 bars with the black, and 2 red trim bands on either side.. I dont really have a whole lot of permagloss left, and this things a 10' surf with a fast taper.. In other words, im up to alm
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I have a saying i go by for just about everything... If you stare at something for longer then 5 minutes wondering if you fix, or redo, or correct something... Just do it.. If its bothering you, replace it... Heck i just spent 6 hours doing a really nice weave... It looked really good.. But didnt fit the rod right... And i cant tell you what it was that bothered me.. So.. I removed it.. Lol
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Not too late.. I still havent had a chance to get into it yet.. Thanks for the input
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Thats true.. Ive done a few shakespeare microspins for him and didnt have that... Metallic brown-ish color.. I used prothread colorfast 'soot'... I had gotten for a job that required black.. Needless to say the magazine, or computer screen is verry misleading on actual colors.. And the build looks really good.. Matched with gold trim bands.. I left the hook keep original so it can be compaired..
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I would like to redo with thread, my buddy seems to want it done that way too.. I suggested that approach.. As its the original way...
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Hey guys, im about to restore a vintage ugly stik for a buddy of mine.. Its an SP 1100 heavy 6'6" im having trouble finding a good color match for the red and yellow... I ment to get color fast thread as well.. Screwed that up.. Id like to get prowrap or equivelent... Taxi cab yellow and red fish are not right lol atleast in standard nylon.. The red matchs well after soaking in alcohol, but
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Thanks tom, how are you always so quick to answer? Lol its like you have a tracking beacon implanted in your brain!
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As the title suggest... Not so much stamp as make a releif i guess.. An example of what i mean is the uglystik G2 handles.. The eva has 'uglystik' depressed into it.. Here is an example of what i mean.. not the best example i know..
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I started with a turnkey kit, i use the hand wrapper now with the crb system.. I just got the aluminum base, and next Wednesday ill have the pro power wrapper . i saw above there was a suggstion to get a MHX kit.. I also suggest that.. I started with a CRB turnkit.. The rods ok, but mhx are in my opinion alot better... Granted in not a huge fan of glass rods.. Ive only been building for about 6
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Cool.. Just laid some thread down on "frankie" (thats my test rod) put the ostrich hurl down.. And i can do exactly what i planned.. Atleast on Colorfast Nylon.. I can only assume over a metallic it will respond the same.. Thanks guys.. Thats going to take this rod up a level.. For you cp guys.. Will cp work over vynl? Or will it fish eye.. I dont have any scraps lying around for te
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Awesome.. I have a vision that burning a hole in my brain with this build.. For how soft and wafty the ostrich hurl is, i should be able to achieve this i think... Ive not seen feathers placed in this manner, hence the question.. As im sure you guys know, you usually see inlays placed static to how the feather is nauturally.. Usually looking like a a "burst"... And a question
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