Mark Emaus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks Ken, I static test my fly rods. These are > the first spinning rods that I have built. I am > thinking that I would use the same way to static > test the fly rod as a spinning since the guides > are on the bottom? Would you agree? I also saw a > video on spacing spinning rods with one
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The spacing of the 1st 3 guides are critical (the stripping, transition, and 1st running guide) to "controlling" the line as it comes off the reel. The rest of the running guides, as far as placement and qty., are dictated by the length of the rod and the action. In other words, static test and see what works. I use these guides a lot on 7' and 7'6" blanks. Being your application i
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Here is how I do mine. I am by no means an expert and open to constructive criticism. Also, I've only done them on rigs tailored specific to bottom fishing. First I space the guides out "normally" and static test like its a spinning rig. (guides on the bottom). Then I flip the 1st three or four closest to the reel, back on top of the blank, in line with the reel. I then set the ree
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If a blank has a rating of say, 20-40lbs, what does that actually mean? Will it break at a load of 45lbs? Does mono vs braid have an effect? I’ve always been curious how or what criteria blank manufactures use to establish line rating.
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Gator blanks have that parabolic action. Well, at least this one did:
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Thanks everyone for the replies.
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I'm really wanting to stay around the 6-6,6" range, but thank you for the reply.
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Hello, I was hoping some of you would be able to offer up some suggestions based off experience. I would like to build myself a nice rod, specific to trolling in the waters off of the Florida West Coast. I’ve got a TLD25 that I’ll spool with 60lb braid to pair it with, and I would like to attempt a spiral wrap on it. Preferably in the 6-6’6” range. This is a personal one, so I’m wanting to experi
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Thanks everyone. I purchased KWAG 40, 30L, 20, 16, (2x) 10s, (3x) 12s. Hopefully I can get a good layout within that selection. I have a sneaking feeling I should of also got the 50, for trial. I'll post the results.
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Herb - Yes, its the Penn Spinfisher SSV model and it is huge, and weighs a ton. I honestly gave it my best effort to tell him this reel is not a good match for the blank. I have an 8' model that I also showed him, but he's sticking to what he wants. So..... Lance - Thank you for that input.
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Tom, Thank you for the response. I do recognize its going to be a trial and error type of scenario. I should of mentioned that the ultimate premise of my post to was to understand what size guides to buy, and how many. I guess I'll one of each size, and multiples of the runners (probably should go with 10s, or 8s). - Ken
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I'm being asked to tailor a 7'0 Gator Blank, 20-40lb class (T70MH) to a 10500 sized Spinning Reel. This reel is huge!!!! Way too big for the blank. I explained to the customer its going to be a challenge stopping the line from slapping when he casts, with such a big reel. (to add to it, he wants to use 40lb mono). He doesn't care. He won't be casting, just free lining live bait and/or trolling ar
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Casting is not a priority. I am going with what I have built, and to your point, if isn't working out, I will amend. The guides are the heavy saltwater Virtus guides, which I've heard good things about their durability. Thanks everyone for their input.
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The application is bottom fishing for Grouper, using live bait....and trolling. Its a 6'6" blank. Wish I could post a picture to show you the action, and how the guides are placed. I tried the simple spiral method 1st (with an extra guide clocked 90 degrees, between the 1st two guides, and it didn't look right (the line had too much angle to it making the transition. I would of had to space
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Messing around with an acid wrap, on a blank, with slow/parabolic action. Seems that no matter what, the Butt guide will be side loaded, when the rod is under heavy load. This makes me think a lot of torque will be imparted to this single location, causing the guide to rip out/the blank to fail. Am I overthinking this? Should you not acid wrap a blank with slow action? Any input from the experts
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I'm targeting the big slobs that hang out in the current under bridges and /or at the damn overflows. The water is usually no more than 13-15' deep, but the current can be ripping (which is why I would use up to a 3oz to get it down to the bottom quickly, and then start working)
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Anyone recommend a blank for snook fishing, using 1-3oz flair hawk jigs? Fast action, with 20lb braid. 7-7'6" range.
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I have a friend asking me to build him a rod. He'd like a decorative wrap, but doesn't want the high gloss appearance the epoxy gives. Since he is getting a matt finish blank, he's asking me if its possible to have a matt finish on the epoxy. I though of maybe hitting it with alcohol while its still tacky, but then it will cloud the decorative wrap underneath. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank
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Scott, I myself am still in the learning process of properly laying out guides, but here are some things I have learned. 1. The rod to reel seat relationship will tell you the proper guide layout, so I found it best to order sizes around what you may think will be the proper reduction train, in addition to the sizes you think.Nothing worse than guessing wrong, and have to wait for new gui
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I'm getting ready to build on a rodgeeks xc735, natural color. I choose the natural, no finish for the matt black look, because I'm doing a blackout themed build. Now that I have in hand, I'm starting to think I should consider a clear finish for protection. What's the general consensus for building on a natural finish regarding the need for protection?
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I thought thread might do the trick, but now I know! Thank you for the replies
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I'd like to cut about an 1" or 2" off of a 10" EVA grip. I have an ALPs power wrapper, and was wondering if there were any tricks/tools for keeping the cut clean and square.
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Just wanted to say thanks for all that you do for/with this site
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Building my first off shore rig on a 7'3" 20-50lb class rod. I'm putting on a 6500 Penn Slammer III, spooled w/30lb braid. I'm going with the virtus guides, and was wondering if anyone could recommend what size stripper guide/reduction train to go with. I'm thinking that size reel warrants a 40 as the stripper, but with the guides being expensive, I wanted to ask before dropping the cash an
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Thanks everyone. I did some digging and found a good thread explaining guides and the different brands/materials.
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I guess I should ask more specific questions; like what are the differences between these three guides? All three are for conventional rods, but they’re shaped different/have different frames, what is it about these differences that would make you select one over the other for a particular application?
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Thanks for the replies, guys. I know I need to go through the growing pains and learn this stuff on my own. Unfortunately, that gets expensive so any little guidance (no pun intended) I get is welcomed and appreciated. Does anyone know of any good reference material that dives deep into the differences, pros, and cons of all the different types of guides out there?
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Would like to attemp a spiral wrap, on a 6'6" 20-50# class rod, paired with a Penn 4/0 senator. This will also be my 1st conventional build, and the amount of different guides/styles out there is overwhelming. Would anyone mind recommending/steering me in the direction of a make/model/style of guides for this application?
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Starting to expand into off shore rods and I’m curious if aluminum offers better durability, enough to where you should consider it at a certain lb test over graphite. If so, what is that threshold?
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Gotcha. Thanks for the reply, Bob.
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