Anyone?? Tried all the usual suspects. Have not been able to make contact with Pac Bay.
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Ben it's interesting you say you had issues with rod dancer cp. I took a long break from building. Been back in the game a little over a year. I always used to use U 40 color preserver and some finish that are not longer available. I was unable to get U 40 CP so got the rod dancer. I have had a ll kinds of trouble with leveling my finish. Thought it was me and getting used to new finish. Which I
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In search of a particular PacBay tip. It is the TiBronze FXT micro. This is the only Tibronze offering with a ceramic ring in a smaller ring size. EFXZT04 is the model number. Looking for tube size 4.0 4.5 and 5.0. A PT model would work if I had no other choice but those are a 6 ring which will just look odd I think with minima runners. I cannot find those either though. Exact model is EPZT06. I
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Forgot the lemke rear ring is free spinning. Most reelseats the rearhood is shaped to fit the reel foot and is keyed on the threads and can only be positioned in one location. So you need to line up the front and rear hood.Look at most any spinning seat and you will see what I mean. Yes scuff up any finish on the areas that will be glued. In light of not needing to line up the hoods you could
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Been awhile since I did a lemke but I do a lot of skeleton seat spinning seats same process. I do it in stages. I will use 5 minute epoxy to glue the threaded barrel to the insert. Clamp in firmly in a vise. Padded jaws with tape over the end of the reel seat. Have a a supply of paper towels and alcohol to cleanup any overruns of epoxy. Yes it is five minute epoxy but i still leave it clamped ove
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No problem to do. Just try and keep the finish nice and narrow and the edges clean and straight. The shiny finish will really show off against the flat eva and carbon fiber making any imperfections very noticeable. Other option is there are trim bands available. Thin aluminum in various colors. Most tend to be around 1" od and 3/4" id. Mudhole has a good selection.
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Getting together all the pieces for my latest build. Thinking of maybe doing something different. Going with Pac Bay minimas. Used them before an very happy with them. Seems like a lot of people are as nobody has a set it stock. I will have to order from a few different places to get what i need in Tiblack . Unless I go with a different color which I was thinking about anyways. Looking to hear ho
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Wondering around the tackle shop today and handled a few rods similar to the one I broke. Seems to fall into the 4-8 lb class based on the characteristics of factory rods I looked at. I vaguely remember at the time I built this the 1-4 was available which would of been lighter than I wanted but could not recall what the other option was. Could only find two models at the time. Pre internet days o
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From the pics it looks as if the S2 splits the difference between the large and small of the previous style. Correct assumption? I have been using the folding fuji keepers small size. Mainly because I like the size. They seems to fall in between the small and large size of other keepers. However the folding feature does not last very long. Would prefer a simple two foot keeper. These look like a
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I do like rainshadow blanks. In fact nearly all my builds since I got back into building have been on rainshadow blanks.That particular blank is on the higher end of the power range I am considering. While looking at that blank I found they do offer a UL version of the blank as well.The rod I am replacing was usually about perfect to maybe slightly more power than I needed for how I used it. I pr
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Find the tip, repair it as outlined in the rod > building forum library and go fishing. > > You will enjoy the rod. A good repair will do > very little to change the action or sensitivity or > power of the rod. > > Good luck Thought of a repair. I have repaired a few in the past
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I am giving a lot of thought to the MHX. Somehow missed the other blanks you mentioned. They would be great options. I know how nice the NFC blanks are. Don't know if I need to spend that much though even at 50 percent off. This rod won't get put in the rotation as much as it used to as my fishing style has changed a bit. Outside of bedding bluegills, which I won't have the rod finished for anyw
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Did not realize that on the NFCs. Still want a two piece blank though.
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Fortunately my number of confirmed kills of rods is rather small. Latest was earlier today. First time I seen it or hear of it. Had a rod leaning against a chair. Tapped it with my foot it fell over. The rod had a 2000 size reel on it not a whole lot of weight. Anyways the rod hit a wire self. Rod fell about two feet before contact.Point of impact was between the tip and the first guide. Rod bare
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Did a little digging on mudhole. Found a MHX that specs out to what I want in a two piece. Interestingly the model is S842-2. As nice as the NFC is I am sure, cannot justify three times the price and cannot do a one piece for this particular rod. Tom thanks for knocking the cobwebs loose and getting enough of my brain cells buzzing to figure this out.
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Jogs my memory a bit. GL something sounds familiar as well as the model being 8 something.Checked with NFC. They offer their classic line with a replacement for both the S842 and S843. Unfortunately only in a one piece and way out of my budget. Their FW 702-1 remastered from the S842 seems to line up exactly with my blank's characteristics. The remastered versions of the P842 and 843 are also av
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Broke one of my favorite rods today. Want to rebuild something similar. No label and my records were destroyed. I know it was a G Loomis. 7 foot fast to extra fast light action borderline med light I would say two piece. Blank was a dark navy blue color flat finish and was built aprox 20 years ago. Trying to narrow it down to a model or two to find a suitable replacement. Thanks.
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I use drywall tape as well. However I don't like the bit of slop you get, just cannot wrap it tight enough.So I use masking tape with it. But only to keep things lined up. Let me explain. I will wrap the blank at the very ends on the reel seat location. I want a very tight fit. Then I will use the drywall tape in between. I don't get a real tight fit on the drywall tape. Actually try to leave a
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I fish a lot of small streams for trout. The best all around blank I found was a NFC FW 602-1 (Delta). The action of the blank is Mod fast leaning towards the mod side. It has enough backbone to set the hook when I am drifting a worm on a slack line. It also works great for lightweight spinners. In the past I would used a slow to mod rod for spinners and a fast for worm fishing. This blank does
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I use Mike's method for trim wraps as well. Couple tips to add. I always try to line up the trim thread and my tie off loop along the edge of the guide foot. Any distortion of the main thread wrap, from the thread underneath,seems to be less noticed. As for the edge of the trim wrap easy way to prevent distorting that. There is no real need for it to be very tight just secured. When I pull the t
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I have not made carbon fiber grips. Have used a few premade ones. On a couple builds I used what were sold as fore grips for the butt grip. So no tenon for a butt cap. I plugged the hole with a fired brass shell casing from one of my pistols. Just glued the grip about a 1/4" or so past the end of the blank. Cut the head off the case glue in place.
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I have not made carbon fiber grips. Have used a few premade ones. On a couple builds I used what were sold as fore grips for the butt grip. So no tenon for a butt cap. I plugged the hole with a fired brass shell casing from one of my pistols. Just glued the grip about a 1/4" or so past the end of the blank. Cut the head off the case glue in place.
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I have looked at these a few times. Wonder whether the reelseat body is painted or color is molded in? Thanks.
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What about doing the tiger wrap directly on the blank. Then have a reelseat insert turned out of clear acrylic. The reel seat hardware would conceal enough area to provide adequate gluing surface on each end of the seat. Think someone on this thread could set you with an insert and do a fine job as he has done for me a time or two.
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I use threadmaster lite. Been happy with it. I always do two maybe three coats. I have always been able to get another coat on within about 24 hours. Which instructions say is the cutoff time for second coat. Well I am uncertain if I am going to get around to another coat in time. Of course this is after first coat is on the rod turning. I figure if anything a light scuffing and I should have no
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Those st croix blanks were my go to for a lot of years. If you were Friend or Family and wanted "just a normal fishing rod" you got a St Croix 6'6" med action two piece. Not ideal for all applications. But for your typical midwest multi species fishing it can work acceptably for most anything. Any two piece 6'6" med action spooled up with 8 or 10 pound braid will be the mult
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All advice is spot on. Only thing to add is consider using Pacbay Minimas. I have recently got back into rodbuilding after a long break. I am amazed at the advancements of all components when it comes to weight reduction. I mainly build light or ultra light rods. I always tried to go as light weight as possible. I was skeptical of the minimas. After half dozen builds I am sold on them. Match the
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Yep talking about any excess on the blank not the thread. I typically clean my brushes of CP with DNA then flush with water. Was thinking the same approach with the blank along the edges of the wrap.I have seen a few times now in different situations that DNA is no go. I always thought it to be one of the cleaner least likely to cause problems solvent like cleaners. Please enlighten me as to th
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Just finished wrapping a rod. Second coat of CP is drying. For whatever reason a thought popped into my head. Should I be cleaning up any dried color preserver prior to applying epoxy? I keep things fairly neat. Never done anything more than wick any noticeable excess off the rod with my brush. But if CP prevents epoxy from absorbing into thread could it also prevent epoxy from bonding well with
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They will make things right. But may take a few attempts and have to talk with multiple people. Email was the least effective line of communication for me. Call them repeatly and ask for the same person each time
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