Hi Everyone -
I decided to go with a Lemke LC1 reel seat for my 2nd fly rod build. What's the easiest way (step by step) of installing this (along with the grip) on the blank? Glue what to where and when? I have a process in my head for doing this but I don't know if it is the best way. How do you do it?

Thanks,
Mike J from Oregon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2020 10:55PM by Mike Juliana.

Been awhile since I did a lemke but I do a lot of skeleton seat spinning seats same process. I do it in stages. I will use 5 minute epoxy to glue the threaded barrel to the insert. Clamp in firmly in a vise. Padded jaws with tape over the end of the reel seat. Have a a supply of paper towels and alcohol to cleanup any overruns of epoxy. Yes it is five minute epoxy but i still leave it clamped overnight. I have had a couple experiences with a gap opening up between the insert and the seat.

Next I glue the front hood on to the insert. Now to line things up I just cut the foot off a junk reel you could use a reel. Epoxy the front hood, clamp loosely in the vise. Insert reel foot into the seat just barely tight. Give a few taps to get everything looking lined up. Tighten down the vise. Again cleanup any excess let dry overnight.

Next glue the seat to the blank. Nothing special here however you like to do it. I like to use a nice thick paste type epoxy shimmed as needed with mesh drywall tape. I never saw a need to clamp a fly seat in anyway. I just keep the blank vertical with the seat touching the floor until epoxy is cured.

Now on to the handle. I use a thin liquid epoxy for this application. Coat the upper half of the area covered by the grip. A thick coating but not dripping off. As you slide the grip down rotate it. Once you get about an inch or so for the reelseat wipp off any epoxy on the blank. At this point I like to have the blank reelseat pointed up.Now coat the recessed area of handle with epoxy. Wait a couple minutes and apply a bit more as the cork will suck up some of epoxy.Next take a brush and lightly coat the portion of reelseat that is recessed into the grip. Lightly coat the remaining blank. Slide the grip down onto the seat. Wipe any epoxy off.

Definitely want to clamp in some way. The threaded rod and two wood works ok. Only thing I suggest with a flyrod handle is a scrap of larger diameter cork handle between the fly grip and the wood block. Fly grip is so so small is real easy to deform the edge with the block.

Other "clamping" option is weight. First mask the rod blank ahead of grip. Again scrap of cork handle. Then if you have the workbench staple of a coffee can of nuts of larger size. Slide a couple handfuls onto the blank. Position the blank vertical until the epoxy cures.

Michael - thanks for the detailed response. This is fantastic. When you glue the front hood on, what are you trying to line up? The bottom hood rotates freely so I'm not sure what you need to line up. Do you scuff up the top of the wood insert before putting the front hood on?

Thanks,
Mike J

Forgot the lemke rear ring is free spinning. Most reelseats the rearhood is shaped to fit the reel foot and is keyed on the threads and can only be positioned in one location. So you need to line up the front and rear hood.Look at most any spinning seat and you will see what I mean. Yes scuff up any finish on the areas that will be glued.

In light of not needing to line up the hoods you could glue the seat all at once. I would not use five minute epoxy though. Working with a lot pieces to get it done in five minutes. Epoxy will get a bit hard to work with after about three minutes.

The only lineup needed on glueing up the front hood, is make sure the reel foot recess in it is to the bottom of the view you want want exposed and viewable. Also take caution to not get any excess glue in the receiver area

Thanks Ron and Michael. Got it all put together with no problem.

Thanks,
Mike J