Roger Thanks. I will do some more indepth searching. The motor in the link seems to to be an option. Have to research the joining of it and the controller. Between their site and amazon I should be able to figure something out.
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I would like variable speed. Would like to get below the 40 rpm of the flexcoat motor. Only other variable is the CRB from mudhole. Which is a different motor than my current one. Perhaps it will have less runout. Got to give this some thought.
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Thought of the DIY route. Can you recommend a source for the motor and control. Thanks
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Don't know if your familiar with gunsmithing. If you are you may have heard of bedding a rifle if not I will explain. Bedding a rifle is the process of using epoxy to fill any gaps between the metalwork and the stock of a rifle. It insures a better fit and in turn more accuracy. I would try something similar in your situation. There are kits for bedding a rifle. Not needed all you need is epo
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Need a recommendation for a decent rod dryer. Had a custom rod builder from mudhole. Was doing some finishing of test wraps tonight. Figured out some of my past finish leveling issues. There is so much play in the motor shaft that the rod was rotating a good 1/8 inch out of round. At times it smooth and rhythmic other times it would jump around. Only used it on three rods. I am done with it don'
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I typically use a gel type slow set epoxy for all my glue ups. Just using the 5 minute for the reel seat. Got the hood the threaded barrel and wood insert. I glue the hood to the insert let set. Make a second batch, then glue the threaded barrel on. I don't like trying to line two things up at once, even if I have longer work time. I was able to find the JB clear weld. Should work.Says works w
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Need a recommendation for a 5 minute epoxy. I have always used one of the "rodbuilding" epoxies. Just went to glue up a skeleton reel seat with Pro Glu 5 minute. Just got the batch. Don't use much so I got the syringe size. Went to mix and the hardener would not come out of the tube. Let it warm up. Tried again the syringe exploded. So I need some epoxy and don't want to place an orde
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About 15 minutes of working the rod. Long rod 11 guides plus ferrule and butt wrap.I mix about five minutes then pour out on a foil tray and let sit for for about five minutes for bubbles to dissipate. So about 25 minutes from mix to kickoff. I know I am near the end of potlife of the Prokote.I know any finish will thicken as you approach the end of potlife. But it has always been a slow progr
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I built a UL close quarters stream trout rod on the one piece version of the North Forks blank. By far the best blank I have ever fished. I use it for spinners and and drifting worms. Unbelievably sensitive lot of backbone for an UL. Only possible problem is if your on a time frame to get the rod built. North Fork can be a little slow filling orders. Give them a call to check inventory.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've never experienced "kick off." Are you using > syringes to measure? In my experience, if > properly measured, wrap epoxy reaction times are > very consistent. I have used Pro Kote, and it's > fine if one has the patience to accept its long > cure time. I normally use Flex Coa
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Ok lets open a can worms that probable was been opened a thousand times. I am getting a supply order together. Once again I am scratching my head over which finish to order. I know technique is more important than the finish. My technique is lacking or at the very least rusty. Took a very long break from rodbuilding.. Was building a couple dozen or so a year. Now maybe three or four a year.
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As for length as mentioned it is personal preference. I like the butt to fall just forward of my elbow. I position the reel accordingly. Whatever the gap is it is. One suggestion I would make is go with a longer foregrip due to the length of the rod. I have built a couple 9 to 10 foot rods. It is nice in my opinion to have a nice foregrip to chokeup on when landing the fish. Getting a full grip a
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Got the blank today. It is perfect. This is what I had envisioned with the previous blank. Everything I would of improved about that blank is on this one. Thanks again Ron.
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If you can find a light or UL steelhead/salmon blank. Not a lot of options but they are out there. In the process of building one myself once it arrives. I found a closeout blank. The others I considered were the Rainshadow IST1141F. Rodgeeks has a a couple offerings C2SS106ULS2, C2SS90LM2. Northfork Customs has one light option St 1002-2 (Delta LMX).
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Ron just ordered that blank. Did some digging online. Found a lot of good things about the blank. Will fit my needs perfectly I think. Action was more important than power. Wanted Mod Fast preferably in a light power. Was looking like I was going to have to setup to ML to get the Mod fast action. Thanks for all the advice.
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Those are the colored carbon fiber grips I was referring to. I have handled rods with the Winn Grips. I just don't care much for the feel.
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I have emails out to several dealers trying to track down a MHX. Norman those rainshadows would be options. Seem like they fall more on the med side of ml based on lure weight. Ron what was the action rating of the XST1141-F?
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Had a little incident this evening. Was not very happy with how my last build came it out. Was fishable but not my best work looks wise. Was moving along well with the rewrap. Decided to take a break. Got up from chair had some balance issues as I got up, been having some hip issues. Put my hand out quick to get my balance. Came down on the blank still clamped in my wrapper. Yep snapped it in tw
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I seen mudhole offers a few colors combined with black but no orange.. Was hoping there might be a source for orange that I was unable to unable to google up.
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Wonder if there is a source of carbon fiber grips in orange and black. I don't make enough rods to try and learn how to make them and invest in the needed tools and supplies. Would be for a spinning rod med light split grip. Aprox 4 inch rear grip 1.5 inch fore grip and 1.5 butt. I like the forecast designs and will go with their black grips if need be. But would sure like to find something simi
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Thanks for the input. Going to go with 6 6 rod geeks blank I think. Still kicking around ideas. I was thinking of just going as basic as possible and spend as little as possible. After all rod will see minimal use. But the custom rodbuilder in me is saying, if your going to spend the time use the best components and make it look as nice as possible. So probable be burnt copper blank, orange and
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The custom colors has me leaning that way. How is the quality of finish? Any issues with thread finish sticking to the blank finish?
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Looking for some advice. A few times this year I found myself wishing for a fishing rod. Time to build a dedicated truck/travelrod. Want to go with something around six foot, four piece,light to med light fast action. Four piece is a must. Want to have smallest package as possible. Rainshadow offers their RX 6 in a 4 pc light model SB720-4. Not familiar with this particular line but used othe
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Well onto finishing. Yep perfect match just as bad as the rest of the rod. At least things are consistent.
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Thanks for all the kind words. What makes this so darn frustrating is this is rod 30 something. My first attempts looked better and were less headache. I intend to fish the rod this year and probable rewrap this winter. So I had to get back on the horse tonight as they say. Only took eight attempts to wrap one micro guide. Yep I ticked someone off real good.
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Thats fights you every darn step of the way. This last one I built has been a pain from the word go. Took forever to get certain components. Then layout was a pain. Never got things quite right. Everything seemed to be a compromise. Wrapping was a nightmare. Broken thread tieoff loops breaking. Finishing was just downright ugly. Used a finish I have used in the past. This batch behaved totally di
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I went with the chromaseal. Really liked how well it wetted the thread. Actually had to re pack the thread in a couple spots as the thread took on so much cp it expanded and caused some minor gaps to open near the end of my wrap. The excess wicked right off. Leaving the thread looking just wet. No question if it will dry clear or not. Other cp always looked a little white always leaving me wonder
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I have not had issues with U 40 CP in the past. I always lightly stirred it poured what I needed into a mixing cup. The instructions state not to shake it. The latest batch has a known issue. It is not slight separation like I have seen that is fixed by a bit of stirring. There is something coming out of solution. It is a thick grey slime about three times thicker than normal CP floating around i
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I have thought of trying no color preserver on a future rod. I do like the look of certain colors with no CP.Tried it in the past had some bubble issues need to work on my technique. On this particular rod was not willing to try it. Used a three color twist thread, green brown black. Figured it would just become one dark color that would not really standout from the black blank.
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Tom thanks for the info on the two being nearly the same. I will probable go ahead and give the flex coat a try again. The color lock is new bottles. There has been a a problem with some component not staying in solution. I was told to shake vigorously to get things blended back together. This is counter to their instructions not to shake it. Not going to roll the dice.
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