Victory over the fuzz! I used a flat sided needle file. Cut out the slight bump of epoxy and the fuzz itself and applied a very light second coat of Threadmaster and I can't even see where I worked on it last night!! Thanks again for the suggestions, Keith
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I had a big bubble come out of a guide foot tunnel and didn't see it until it was completely cured, I took a bodkin and broke into it and then took a needle file point to open it up some. Mixed up a little finish and filled with a tiny drop on a toothpick and now I can't see it, even with high power readers on. I was actually kind of lucky that the bubble was down in the finish, it left me a &q
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If you have a vacuum pot, I would take a test piece and try it first to determine the best ratio. cut it open after full cure time to see how well it does. You may not need to thin it as much as I do.
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I'm not much of a rodbuilder yet but have thinned epoxies for many years making longbows, recurves and furniture, I can say that a progressive application of devcon epoxy thinned 5 to 1 with acetone works wonderful. (that's 5 parts acetone to one part mixed epoxy) Apply with a lint free rag or disposable brush (and please wear gloves). I always use it as a finish also. Begin with 5 to 1, cure
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. Since I didn't use CP the fuzz is almost invisible but the exterior surface of the finish is rough at that spot. I just wanted to be sure that if I cut, sanded or filed on the epoxy, that the second coat of finish would hide that activity and leave a smooth coat. Thanks again, Keith
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I found thread fuzz in 2 of my wraps that came through the finish... can I trim it off with a razor or sand it off and just add a light second coat of finish to it? I wondered if it would blend like it was never there or if the spot would haze? I bought some "reading" glasses for future inspection of wraps but this rod was finished before that acquisition. Thanks for any tips
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You guys are great! I only wish I would have asked the question Thursday, because Friday morning tried my patience! I prevailed in the end but what turned into 3 hours of hard core concentration (mixed with a little frustration!) could have been handled in less than one hour!! Thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!! keith
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So you are actually referring to a nail know as in fly line to leader? I wouldn't have thought of that. I guess you could just do lees wraps to shorten as needed. On the clove hitch, do i just put a touch of CP or glue to hold for trimming and finishing? Thanks!! keith
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Thanks for the quick response! It must be one of those mornings.... I can't envision the nail knot technique. Is it possible to describe differently, perhaps more basic? Sorry. Thanks, keith
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Sorry the for double post Thanks, keith
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Bone is used in knife handles and such... my understanding is that since it is a porous surface it just needs to be sealed. (I think that's mostly to keep it clean and smooth looking) I used to have a friend that was a taxidermist, he used an acrylic clear finish on european mounts. (skull mounts) I don't know what kind though.
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I Have had a tough time using matallic thread for trim bands... I know there has to be a trick to it or you guys wouldn't use it! If I use extra tension I can usually get it to stay... but what a chore. I did some searching and found a few references to tying off narrow bands. This interests me because it sounds much easier and I could use smaller bands of trim for different effects. Could
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I scraped off the finish this morning and it still won't fit. I was really careful... and I'm sure I could have gone further but don't want to chance anything. I went ahead and ordered larger tops. What a drag... time lost. Thanks for the input. -keith
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I'm not worried about getting into the fibres... 600 is about like using steel wool. I couldn't even get into the fibres on one pass. I just don't want to try to "make it fit" by thinking it's just finish, if you know what I mean. I hate the thought of waiting for 2 new guides and surely can't fathom paying overnight fedex on 2 tip tops. Are batson blanks generally pretty true t
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I have two rainshadow blanks in green. Both are finished all the way to the top, no 1/2 inch dull area like the other blanks I have and have used. I assume I need to prep the tip just as if I were anywhere else that needed a water break free surface, right? Will that tiny bit of sanding with 600 grit actually change the tip diameter to any noticable degree? The reason I ask is that neithe
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I believe I figured it out. The reason I had contact is that this is a +T handle rod and the butt guide is a couple inches further up the blank (for handle section clearance) than if it weren't. (resulting in more flex under load at the bumper point and allowing line contact) I mocked up the last 3 guides as if it weren't a +T and it clears fine. So I made another adjustment to the #7 and it
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Tom, They are right at 9" exactly and the ring of the bumper sits at 4 1/2". My "modified" #7 only holds a taught line (with no rod load) 3mm off the blank. The guides are BLAGs, Alconite single foot fly style. The #8 BLAG gives me over 5mm of clearance... an extra 2.5mm of clearance appears to be plenty. Sounds like my perception of small and low were a little off
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I am working on a (bass) casting rod, layed out my guides, static tested, adjusted, re-checked... and am very happy with the placement. What I'm having trouble with is choosing a bumper guide. I read over and over about using a low framed bumper. I believe I have found "too low" in a BLAG #7. It sits almost flat on the blank. I then tried a #8 BLAG but it sits really high in compar
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If you are concerned about metal to blank contact, why not a thin underwrap to protect the blank?
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The Academy and Wal-Mart by me sell the stick on rulers. They are really cheap and cheesey looking though.
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Lowe's actually carries cork plugs... ranging from 1/4 up to 15/16. Bought some last night. They are in the drawers where you find specialty nuts, bolts and fasteners. Since most Lowe's are set up the same... find the loose bulk lag bolts and then turn around.
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Once I realized what I had done, the epoxy was already set... I used the waterproof Locktite brand gel epoxy, set pretty quick. Well, I did it... I took it really slow and tried to cut it to the point that it was like thread fibres holding the reel seat together and then used the nut and a shim to break itself on the cut line. It worked perfectly. I found one tiny nick about 1/2 the size of
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I'm not sure if you mean you have those blanks to choose from or that is just an idea of what you think you might want... I would suggest looking into St.Croix SCV blanks but the price is about the same as IMX (but most feel it's a better rod than IMX) I just built a St.Croix SCIII spinning rod that is a great one. (actually built it on a ML casting blank) They have an SCII that fits your n
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Well, after my unexpected success on my first rod, I got in a hurry to start the second. (yes, I know better but got excited) I had planned on a split grip, no foregrip, cut down reel seat casting rod... in my haste, I epoxied the reel seat about an hour ago and realized I had forgot to cut down the seat. I still want to cut it down as it looks funny being full length with no foregrip
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Show your rods to friends, family, etc. and you will probably get some interest... If you truly love building, let them buy all the materials and you supply the labor. That way you get to keep building w/o spending any money. You may get good enought to start selling them for profit.
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Well I am a true novice, Just finished my first rod. I used Threadmaster and ended up with a truely professional looking finish. (I was shocked! - credit to threadmaster, not me) Another good thing about threadmaster is that when you have any questions, you can call or email Andy (Lamar on the sponsor list) for quick help. And based on the reviews here, I believe the skilled, master rod bui
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Yes, my preference would have been one piece, but until they were delivered, I didn't know they were +T blanks. I got them so cheap that they will make great give aways to brothers and friends... and I get to practice building more rods! I just want to be sure I take any necessary steps/precautions building them... it will work out well since all of my brothers have cars they will have to carry
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I am starting a rod with a telescoping handle. Other than wrapping the joint area with thread, like a ferrule on a 2pc rod, are there any other different or special considerations I need to be aware of? How far down should the wrap go... 1 inch, 1.5 inch, more? Also, do I need to prep the inside of the joint area with anything? Perhaps debur the inside portion of the handle? Thanks for t
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I saved the foil with the excess and it was hard as a rock at 5am (9 hrs) yesterday. I guess it has become a moot point... we are finally getting rain!! As bad as I want to fish, I'd rather have rain right now. So it will at the very least get 3 days curing time before use. Thanks for the info everyone. -keith
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I figured that I should give it 24 hours but I was just hoping it was like some epoxies that will fully cure in 8-12 hours. I'm sure you guys can remember rod #1 and how excited you were... I'm real patient when I'm ON THE WATER, just not before! ...lol Thanks!
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