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special considerations for a +T handle rod?
Posted by:
Keith Neidhart
(---.hot.res.rr.com)
Date: January 23, 2006 09:14PM
I am starting a rod with a telescoping handle. Other than wrapping the joint area with thread, like a ferrule on a 2pc rod, are there any other different or special considerations I need to be aware of? How far down should the wrap go... 1 inch, 1.5 inch, more? Also, do I need to prep the inside of the joint area with anything? Perhaps debur the inside portion of the handle?
Thanks for the help, I'd rather not have any surprises! Keith Re: special considerations for a +T handle rod?
Posted by:
Steve Gardner
(---.dyn.sprint-hsd.net)
Date: January 23, 2006 10:16PM
One thing is to make sure that your first guide does not hit the handle section at the joint, when the rod is collapsed. Even if it means moving it off your static test a little bit.
No need to prep inside handle. Be careful not to allow epoxy to run down inside the handle ,as it will effect the way the two parts join when extended. Wrapping 1/2inch down the outer joint is plenty. Anything past that depends on your personal taste, and any accents your are wanting to create. Re: special considerations for a +T handle rod?
Posted by:
Emory Harry
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 23, 2006 10:25PM
Keith,
Yes, I would wrap the end of the butt section. But if it is a flipping stick that you are building the butt sections of these are pretty stout and there is little danger of it splitting so an inch or so of wrap is fine. Again if it is a flipping stick blank then no you do not need to do anything to the inside surface of the butt section. As far as other considerations are concerned, it is very easy to put the first guide on so that when you slide the tip into the handle section the first guide hits the butt section. I can still remember doing this on the first one of these that I built years ago. I usually epoxy a piece of scrap graphite blank into the butt section about an inch or so and then put a piece of rubber or EVA on the tip of this for the end of the tip section to hit against when the tip section is slide down into the butt section. One additional thing that you might want to check is that the two pieces fit well. You can check this by sliding the tip section out until it is fully extended but not tight and then shake the blank and check that you do not feel any clicking where the tip is moving inside of the butt piece. Re: special considerations for a +T handle rod?
Posted by:
Emory Harry
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 23, 2006 10:31PM
Steve,
You and I must have been typing at the same time. Keith, The original reason for these two piece flipping sticks was because fishermen wanted rods that were longer than the rod lockers in the early bass boats. Unless your rod locker is shorter than the length of the flipping stick that you want then there is not reason in my judgement to build one that is two piece. In fact, they do not make as good a rod as a one piece rod for several reasons the main reason though is weight. All of the two piece flipping sticks are heavier than a one piece of equivalent power will be. Re: special considerations for a +T handle rod?
Posted by:
Keith Neidhart
(---.hot.res.rr.com)
Date: January 23, 2006 10:54PM
Yes, my preference would have been one piece, but until they were delivered, I didn't know they were +T blanks. I got them so cheap that they will make great give aways to brothers and friends... and I get to practice building more rods! I just want to be sure I take any necessary steps/precautions building them... it will work out well since all of my brothers have cars they will have to carry them in. (may have been a blessing in disguise actually)
Thanks for the tips... I probably wouldn't have thought to pad the inside of the butt, or measuerd the collaping distance for the butt guide! Keith Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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