Custom Tackle Supply has them listed on their website. Chuck
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Bill If its of any help, I have some old 1pc Fenwick blanks. I have a couple of SH962's and a FL102-9. These are still uncut, made in California blanks. They are golden yellow with the Fenwick Eagle logo and model # on them. Feel free to shoot me an email on them. foremax@msn.com Good luck in your search, Chuc
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Barry, Its a Skippers Special. Those rods were designed for live bait fishing on the west coast. primarily throwing live anchovies. The reel you use depends on feveral factors,primarily,what you want to spend. Yoy could start with a Penn 145 Squidder or 501 Jigmaster and go up from there. The Varmac guides they used on those rods were such clunkers,they actually overloaded the rods tip sec
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I have used 1/2" ID hyp over butts that large. It will shrink the length enough to make it worthwhile to follow Mark's suggestion and spring for another piece of larger ID stuff. The money alone is worth not having to boil or nuke and stretch it. It will be a BIG hassle to slide it the last 6 or so inches! Chuck
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Jeff....reply sent. Chuck
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The Gudebrod #230 is a match. How much and what size do you need? Chuck foremax@msn.com
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Bob Try this link [] its tuna/butt cord. Chuck
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Unless you were in a rush to meet a dealine for completion, you could have contacted Mudhole to exchange for what you needed. Chuck
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Bart, You are welcome. Big 5...then don't think what they had were actual Cali Tackle blanks. Email me direct and I will get you the specs for the 870. Chuck foremax@msn.com
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Jan, Thank you for that followup here. Chuck
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Bart, IF.... they are old Calif. Tackle blanks, the 870 should be rated for 40# at the top end,as I recall. I can't say about the others as they are probably Penn blanks, or some others versions of Sabres. I can't be sure, but I believe all the Calif. Tackle mandrels were bought by Seeker. When Leon Todd left Calif. Tackle, he started Tackle Specialties,AKA Calstar rods/blanks. Check those out
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Sorry Steven, I only have a green Sabre in that model. Good Luck. If you are in the Los Angeles area, try the west coast rodbuilding show. Look for Wade Cunningham, if he is there. He could have it. or try Squidco in San Diego if the board sponsors cant help you. At least its not a gold or psychedelic colored Sabre your trying to find. Chuck
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Hi Jim, I can't find that one in the few old catalogs I have available. I do see a LB966 listed and its a 6 power rod rated for 15-30. I can't recall yours, but as an older rod, I wouldn't think it more than maybe a 50# rod. And being as its an older rod, you may even wish to back off of that some,depending on how much use it saw. Tom K might have it in one of his catalogs. Best wishes,
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Billy, Why did I know you would be the first,maybe second to respond? LOL I had already gone for that solution. I sure wish I had saved mine for myself, or bought more when I had the chance. If I had more, I would happily share some with ya. :) I have heard,and read, alot of good things about other makes out there. As I also stated, I have never had issues with FC or the Color Lock from Tronda
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OK...let me preface what follows with,"I know this topic has been beat to death." I just finished up the last of my old stash of original Brilliance CP. I had stashed it so well, that I didn't dicover it until AFTER I bought 2 bottles of the 811. I received these several years ago,before the formulation change. I had bought alot of the Brilliance. :) I did a search for this topic
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Mike, Best wishes for improved recovery for your wife,and you. I am sure you have seen firsthand what your enthusiasm for the new addiction...oooops..hobby :D ,did for your wifes recovery time. Have a great time in High Point for Denise and myself. Denise lost her daughter Thanksgiving Day and her threadworking has helped her tremendously. Regards, Chuck
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One mans trash.....is anothers treasure. ;) I just do what works and looks best for a specific project. Naturally, I avoid the really bad cork. It just leads to more problems down the road. Chuck
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Jason, You are welcome. I just wanted to add that my 16 ozs was actually 8 ozs. Sure went the distance for me to do what I needed. :D Chuck
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Paul, While I am no expert on the matter, I can offer you one tip and steer you in the right direction. Are the wraps translucent? If so, you may wish to try simple laquer as a CP. I personally have no experience with using this. Tom has given you some sound advice as well. There is a product from Anglers Workshop called Al's CP that was designed for silk. I do have an old,unopened bottle of
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I just went through 16 ounces of it. While not the worst, its not the best. I will be ordering more for future use soon however. It does what I need it to and its very flexible. I needed to warm the resin for better measurement, and until it cooled, it seemed to cause the mix to set up a bit faster. I started letting it cool before mixing and had no further issues. OK pot life, however thats pa
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Thomas, It simply sounds like the thread is wicking the finish back INTO the wraps, as air is displaced during the curing process. Hard to say, as I have never used Aftcote. It is my experience with others that I base this on. Duane and Bill give you sound advice on this matter also. :) Chuck
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Another option is to contact June at B&M Tackle in the Los Angeles area. West Covina, I believe. This person is also a seller on @#$%& and often lists old style Varmac seats. Not the newer stuff, but older "original" Varmac seats. I might even have what you are looking for. As another option,perhaps you could make do with a Lakeland seat as they were very similar to the Varmacs. M
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Contact Mark and Colleen at @#$%& There may even be a link to it posted on their site by now. Chuck
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Yuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Terry, Keep in mind that I have NOT done any grips with the foam and skins. I did read the article several time through however. As I recall,the skin gets tucked BEFORE applying any covering finish. Thats what the picture you posted tells me as well. But what do I know? I just read the article and haven't made any,as I previously mentioned. Chuck
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Go Mike go! Go Mike go! Go go go...just git 'er done! I am sure you can make your deadline with room to spare. Chuck
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Mike, Just a thought here...if the frame itself is ok and the ring is shot...You can always heat the ring some to loosen the epoxy holding it in. Then clean the old epoxy residue off. Take the ring of matching size from another Fuji guide,and epoxy that in its place with Rodbond or Andy Dears Ultimate Gel. Either of those should hold as well or better than whatever Fuji uses for theirs. Just t
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Mike,as I recall,those were Fuji hardaloys. I have some hanging around if you need them. Personally, I would just use whichever one you have that will work best in a New Concept fashion and use other guides as necessary to acheive the best casting results. Email me if you have to have matching guides. foremax@msn.com Chuck
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Peter,your email addy is hidden. Feel free to email me about the grips,as I know where some are. Chuck foremax@msn.com
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John, Unfortunately, what you have are not old original Sabre blanks,as produced by the California Tackle Co. in Gardena,Calif. Fortunately,Pac Bay made some using the Sabre mandrels,as did/do Seeker. I am leaning towards PacBay as the manufacturers of what you have. I would start there and you might even try Versitex for answers. At one time,they too carried "sabre" blanks. Goo
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