John, Unfortunately, what you have are not old original Sabre blanks,as produced by the California Tackle Co. in Gardena,Calif. Fortunately,Pac Bay made some using the Sabre mandrels,as did/do Seeker. I am leaning towards PacBay as the manufacturers of what you have. I would start there and you might even try Versitex for answers. At one time,they too carried "sabre" blanks. Goo
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As noted, The Truline and Trulines are two very different animals. The Trulines were made by a gentleman by the name of John Collins. I am not sure of the first name but Collins is right. Tim, if you can find a full length octagon D8 for ONLY $200...I suggest you snap that puppy up post haste. At that price its a steal! The Truline fans are notoriously frivolous with their money. As mentioned b
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Sandra, The blank recommended should be more than adequate for Oak Creek Canyon also. Nice little pocketwater stream. I don't know how well off it is these days. A couple years ago it got blown out pretty bad from a huge amount od rain runoff. I am sure it has cleared out by now though. As I recall,it was mostly stocked rainbowsand some browns,with an occasional larger rainbow that may be a h
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Try contacting Billy Vivona through this website. Hecan provide good insight as to where they might be available. He may even have some info on their new series of blanks as well. Chuck
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Just use the thin foam sheets sold at craft stores,cut into strips and rubber cemented ,(or epoxied) to the blank? While the strips wont be long for a whole butt grip,they may work when used in a split grip fashion....food for thought............ Chuck
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Tom, I figured that was understood by anyone following this post and that read the article. :o) You mention the release agent as well and its low cost. When I try my hand at these,I will probably use a slightly longer tube as well. BTW...Your articles are very detailed and informative. Your use of the camera to demo each step of any article is worth its weight in gold. Best wishes,
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Just a thought on creating a hands free way to center any rod used in making the handle "blanks." It can be done the same way that many of us made our self centering chucks for rod dryers...Three or four equally spaced thumb screws around the top of the forming cylinder and using rubber bands to hold the steel rod. But then again, doing that may take away from the working and pouring ti
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Billy...THANKS! Those 1's were just what I was looking for. Chuck
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Thank you to all three of you good gents. Steve...THATS what I was looking for! Thank you! Spencer,I still have some of the old "flealight" Fujis,bought from Clemens in the 80's,along with an old Apogee blank suitable for them. I may even go for the New Concept method and use the new Batson single foot fly guides on it. ;o) Chuck
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Spencer...not sure of the ring material. Just that they are smaller than their current offering of a size 5 and "new" to the market. They may not even be out yet. I can't find them on their Japanese website. Hence,my question. Heck, they may not even be Fuji's...LOL I have a tiny,ultralight Japanese rod I am trying to replace some mising guides on. As I recall, they appeared to be Cerm
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Hi all! I tried doing a search for new Fuji (I think) single foot fly guides here. I think something was posted about these a month or more back and I can't find anything on them. Please help me out here. Nothing on the Anglers Resource site for them either.... Thank you, Chuck
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Jack, I have a Harnell with the additional markings of Gladding/Southbend on it. It is a Model 2520..20 LB Class IGFA rod. Also on it are 1-965-200. The assembled length is right at 7 feet. I am willing to let it go. Feel free to email me for pics,etc. My email addy is foremax@msn.com Chuck
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and rocking......or rolling in the fetal position............ Hang in there Mick and you will(hopefully) come up on top smelling like a rose. Chuck
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Sounds like the unusual looking Z Handle from Reel Colors. Try looking at www.reelcolors.com/ Chuck
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FWIW .....while the Recoil guides may help down the road,it won't do anything about his breaking the rod now. He could use some suggestions on better care of the rod to begin with. Maybe go fishing with him to see what he may be doing that isn't in his best interest as far as gear longevity goes. It might build a better name for yourself down the road. Both with him as well as other potential cus
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Hi Billy, Its been my understanding for years that the radiused gimbals are better on the bigger tuna. It has to do with the "clicking" vibration made by the non-radiused gimbals aggravating them incessantly, as the rod is pumped or short stroked. Could be false but one of the premier builders and innovators of the short standup style rods in San Diego is alot more knowledgeble about
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Tom, I tried to email you however your address is hidden.I have an answer to your search. Feel free to contact me at foremax@msn.com Chuck
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Try using a hosel as opposed to a wind check.
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Hi MaryLou, Try this.... Chuck
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Greg I wouldnt worry about the unknown number. It is most likely a vendors inventory control or stock locator thing. And yes,thats a very good blank to build on. Chuck
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Greg Its listed in the Fenwick 1987 Blank Catalog as an E-glass Hotstik blank. The specs have the action listed as Ex.Fast,15-50 lb line,and 3/4 -3 oz. lures. The butt is given as .923 with a 9/64ths tip. Blank weight is 12 3/8 oz. Chuck
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There is always another option. You may even use very fine nylon or silk in white also. The same effect is created if used with a very thin finish. The white becomes, in effect, invisible. Do a sample wrap where the seat or grip will go, using your preferred finish of choice. FWIW Chuck
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And still another option is to use a Fuji LBSG or BLBLG in the preferred ring size. Epoxy it onto the blank under the guide foot and use a Forhan Locking Wrap to secure it for good. You may also wish to forego the use of color preserver as well,so the threads soak up the finish creating a better bond. Permagloss would be a good choice for the initial coat or two of finish. You will get an extreme
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I agree Richard! This is just one of the many reasons the show has become the obvious success it has. Chuck
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Thank you for the new info gentlemen. By using canned air,I was hoping to avoid the comments from Tom in the article. "At some point you'll decide that the grip is fully covered with flock and stop (6). But if you do, you'll be stopping too soon" "to ensure that you really do get all surfaces well covered without any bare or even thin areas, continue flocking longer than you
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Thank you Tom. I will give it my best efforts. Chuck
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Ray: Have it,read and reread it. Kit was ordered this morning. Tom: I understood there is a kit. I was simply looking for a less costly alternative as I stated in my question above. I was looking for the advantages you mentioned in the article w/o the expense of the additional kit and air compressor. Bill: Same response as I gave to Ray. Thank you all for your responses. I appreciate yo
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Hi all, I have a special project in mind that includes flocked grips. I would like to get this right the first time and would prefer NO mistakes. I would prefer to not endure the expense of buying an air compressor,etc. Has anyone tried using canned air for propelling the flocking material when applying it to grips? I am refering to those cans of compressed air used to blow out our PCs.
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While it won't help with inlays,any tipping can be wrapped prior to the guides. Once all tipping is finished,coat with color preserver. Be careful to just get the thread per Tom K's suggestion. If too much is used,it can leave a tiny "edge" that will make it semi-difficult to get your guide wraps butted up against them,without a slight rise in the thread. Once the wraps are dry,go ahead
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Looks like an old Berkley to me. But what do I remember about the 60's. LOL Chuck
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