Contact Golden Witch. They are a site sponsor and can help get you started on the right track. They also have some DVDs available that will be of great help. Crafting bamboo rods from scratch isn't for everyone,and the DVDs will at least let you know what you are in for,as far as the long haul. If you contact them,I am sure they would be more than happy to help you. Best wishes,
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Hey Mike, We can go over this this weekend when we get together. Chuck
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I myself would go with a Fuji or other similar graphite/nylon model. Preferably with the nylon inserts in the hoods. A very light and reasonable seat,with the added measure of electrolysis protection...just in case the seat and reel are not rinsed as well as they could be. I also believe the nylon inserts in the hood keep the reel secure,as they can conform to and lock-down the reel by the feet.
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Hi Kermit, Welcome to the finest site dealing with rodbuilding. JMHO... I read your first question in an earlier post. While you didn't mention what kind of rod you are building,there may be another consideration at hand. I am going on the basis of it being a light rod,of fly,spinning,or casting classification. That consideration is how much finish was applied? If you used a considerable amoun
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The secret to CATCHING,is to fish where the fish are. Otherwise...its just fishing. LOL Chuck
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John, It may be cheaper for her to buy,and even sell perhaps. I personally can't complain with the price I have paid for Madeira thread. It can't be that bad. At least you have a place you can go to check out the colors in person. I bought the Madeira color cards so I know exactly what I am buying. The Madeira threads are also color coded by Pantone. After you have used them,please let us k
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Just an reminder...those samples may have been coated as previously mentioned. That MAY be part of the reason you saw no fuzzies. Don't forget,even burnishing wraps can cause those buggars even with quality tools. Best wishes Wylie, Chuck
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I can't say for sure,as I personally haven't used more than a couple coats of the Permagloss on my wraps. I do recall a post by Tom Kirkman on this very subject. I believe he indicated from his own experience with this finish,that more than three or four coats were problematic. By that, I mean that too many coats caused the wavy problem. I do know he posted pictures to show this effect on th
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Hi Dave, In a word...nope. I worked for Larry and Bard 6 years ago and they were tiger eye back then. I can't say for sure about any eralier variations,but its doubtful. I would email Sevier for the most definitive answer though. I would say that its most likely a Pac Bay blank or other manufacturers item. Chuck
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He remembers to set his drag to the blank capabilities,and not the breaking strength of the line. Might be a potential problem down the road to consider...... FWIW Chuck
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Another option to reaming or boring out an insert,is to shorten the blank the length by the length of the finished seat assembly.Then use a piece of scrap blank mounted internally to the butt of the blank. The seat will then be mounted to the "scrap" section behind the blank itself. The downside to reaming or boring the insert to fit the butt,is that it may become too thin walled and sp
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By his own admission,he claims it isn't the amazing wrap technique. While I can't say for sure,it seems that the amazing wrap wouldn't lend itself to the "holographic" effect as the marked colors will be somewhat stationary. Being stationary might not allow it to change as the rod is viewed from different angles. Check this link to find the "artists" response to this quest
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I have a 8 1/2 ft 2wt i bought years ago from Dick Kantner when I still lived in San Diego.It will throw a 4 wt line much better than a 2 wt. As mentioned above,it just doesn't get any distance with the rated line weight. I don't use it too much. Its become more of a loaner/backup rod than anything else. Quite frankly,there are better casting and fishing flyrod blanks on the market. Ones tha
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Mike, I suppose you were quite fortunate in that regards. I quickly tired of buying those 100 yd spools and running out in the middle of a guide foot every so often so I started buying 1 oz. or bigger. Sadly,they are out of business now. Holland made some better colors and combinations till they went the same way. On an upnote for the better,there are companies now making some good pro
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Just a thought here...but maybe its some of the older,initial formulation where this WAS an issue? I had read that its been revamped to better suit us rodbuilders in the way of setting and curing time. I have seen posts from others like billy V that indicate it is a better product now. Faster cure time. Chuck
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Its a good thread to use for rods as they did some specifically for rodbuilding. I believe Garcia used their thread alot and perhaps the older Fenwicks also. By that, I mean dinosaur Fenwicks. While I don't know for sure,I believe most of what they made was for maunfacturers and shops. I have never seen anything less than a 4 oz. spool size. If this isn't the stuff that appears on @#$%&,I wo
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FYI...Flex Coat does not make for a quality,long lasting blank finish. Permagloss or the aforementioned spar varnish are much better in the long run. Chuck
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Mudhole also carries Seeker freshwater glass blanks in the length and actions you are looking for. Good quality and prices too,although pricier than yhose mentioned above. Made in the USA too,in case that makes a difference. Chuck
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Bill, An "original" Sabre? As in California Tackle Co. in Gardena? To the best of my knowledge,they never made a "plum" colored blank. Chocolate,yes but I never saw a plum colored model in many years of selling them in retail stores and building them. The IGSU doesn't ring any bells either. That seems to denote a graphite surf blank and as best I know,they didn't do any gr
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Dan, I say that you are a verrrrry lucky man to have such a wife. I am sure there are others that will echo that thought. I suppose I can thank my lucky stars the ex didnt want what meant so much to me,or be forced into selling it for her benefit. She got hers and she will get it again in the great beyond. LOL On the upside,you get your shiny treasure and she gets peace of mind knowing w
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Unless the reel does not come equipped with a rod clamp,I find no need to overly complicate it. I have used cork tape for years and never had a problem. A double layer of cork tape can add a cushion to the handle and help prevent crushing of blanks underneath the clamp. I have also used the rubberized/plasticized 3M tape but i typically use it below where the reel will be mounted. I often use hy
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I wouldn't personally use a handle on this particular blank,although it can be done. This blank was designed to be built with a gimbal or cap,reel seat,butt, and foregrips. Most builders using this do get the five roller guides on with no problems. Most commonly used are the Aftco HD's.I am of no help to you if you are going to use the Aftco Big Foots,but still,can't see any problems with them sa
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Raymond You are indeed correct about the rod for the most part. The SH is to designate it as a steelhead rod.the 96 refer to the length in inches,96 equals 8 feet. The 2 denotes it as a blank with a power rating of 2. As for its use,they were for casting or spinning rods,not flyrods. Off the top of my head, as it isn't shown in the few catalogs I have, I would say its best line range is 8 to
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I don't happen to troll spoons myself,but there are guys that troll those big Bunker Spoons for stripers. My understanding is that the softer tip aloows the lure trolled to have a more favorable swimming action in the water. I may be wrong so wait n see wait else is said about it. There are other boards for fishing that may be more helpful but iI don't know what they are. I would look for sites r
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Doc, I concur with the others. The bottom weave is nicer overall. I would use a lighter shade of blue for the background color though. Another option is to lighten the "ocean" in the area around the bill or even overall,by using several different shades of blue for effect. Thats just something I have done to keep weaves a little bit different for customers when weaving trout. Your wo
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I will agree with the Kudos for Neal. He is a very nice guy and I have had no problems with doing business with him. He is a gentleman that CARES about his customers and how he does business with them. I also measured and inventoried the EVA grips he sells before he bought them from another of this boards sponsors. I am not trying to ignore other sponsors of this site. I am just adding my voi
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I agree with Roger on the tapered cork.
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Any idea where here in Colorado? Are they following me from Sandy Aygo? lol
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If I am using square turning stock,I will start by "rounding" off the hard edges with a knife. Cutting is then done with a small hobby saw. I don't worry if the edges are at a perfect right angle at this point because I typically cut them a little longer than my desired finished length. This allows for any shrinkage in length due to compression of the EVA. Then I sand to nearly the fina
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Check out Neal's Fishing Products,a board sponsor. His link is on the right. Last week he had some blue Forecast blanks at 2 for $25 or so. He typically sells them at $15-$16 each.
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