Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Heck, that will take all the fun out of it! He > will never have the need to try other blanks to > see if he gets ‘good vibes’ from them. So if > he finds one he likes then he should buy several > in case it ever becomes discontinued and replaced > with something newer and more soulful. >
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OK thats the kind of info that helps to get great recommendations , unfortunately for you, i'm not the one that can provide it since i don't ice fish but i do have some links that will help.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- " Please define "dynamic Efficiency." If you look up " Dynamic Shaft Fitting Addendum" which discusses graphite golf shafts and how they test them and compare the differences and performance characteristics you will get the idea , it's complex though and i'm no engineer . I know exactly
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All the companies to the left of the page are top notch or they wouldn't be listed . Please tell us what you're looking to build Mike as thats the only way people could give you an appropriate list of essentials , sticking to Ice rod blanks or thinking about something else ? As far as " Whats the best brand " of blanks , good luck with that one , thats a never ending quest that none o
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Phil Ewanicki , now i feel your pain , i think it's become obvious that people continue to come back to the personal preference thing which is just "Basic common sense" which i know is not the info you were interested in . Phil wants hard data on dynamic efficiency of each blank prior to adding components , i want that also , i'll have Norm get right on it.
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Check out the below link , thousands of pages and answers to your exact question.
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I knew it wasn't a great comparison because spinners and fly rod outfits cannot be measured the same way but i wasn't sure how to word it , you filled in the missing pieces that makes it easy to understand .
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom is right on. I thought after my last post > that all the test showed was which rod cast the > test line the "best." Use a different line and > you'd most likely get a different answer. Thats not just the case with fly rods , change the line on any rod/reel and it will perform dif
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Tom made a great point yesterday , even though this shootout is testing 4 weight fly rods if you did a CCS on them there are clearly power differences between them so Phil makes great points, the testing methods are not truly an apples to apples comparison . I give the people who put it together credit since it's better than nothing for sure.
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Jonathan Hotham: " I would love to continue to have a conversation about objective scientific differences in rod building components" That will never be possible with " Components " and the differences between components is not what Phil was inquiring about when he started this thread , Phil is interested in better ways to judge "Rod Blank" performance pot
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Phil , very good point as usual , i always forget the fly rod angle since i don't have any experience in that area . The fact that the testers already know the rod they're testing cannot be overstated . I 100% agree that it would be a far more interesting and telling shootout if the test casters did NOT know what model rod they were testing . Great points by Tom as well about 10 weights
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Sounds more like epoxy than hot melt type glue to me , hot melt type glue specifically designed for tip tops will allow you to slide the top off with very little chance of overheating the tip area. Then again Tom thinks differently so i'm probably incorrect lol.
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Not just footballs Lynn , before i got the hang of applying finish i applied too much and had all sorts of issues including the wavy uneven look , footballs, bubbles, i was traumatized & nearly checked in to a mental health clinic but i live Murphy's Law so this stuff is expected.
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I know there are many who apply finish at considerably higher speeds because they say it gives them clean edges but i have never heard of drying rods at those much higher speeds 100 rpm + . If it works for people than by all means everyone's different . I have managed with an old rotisserie motor which is ridiculously slow but i made it work by watching the wraps closely for a while after i fin
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If the heights are similar to the KL-H and the ring sizes are close they should work , i know many love to use the Pacific Bay Minima Match guides as a direct replacement for Fuji's KL-H . Experimentation will be needed of course .
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So the question is will it hold up , tough to say but if it does hold up i'll take the credit for it and if it turns out to be a complete disaster it's Norms fault even though Norm has nothing to do with it. We need pic's
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Phil , your comment about different rod components not offering a substantial performance advantage is dead on accurate , for instance if you were to compare the best guides from American Tackle , Seaguide and Fuji & built 3 identical rods using each manufacturers guide set the difference in performance is very little , one type will not cast considerably further than the other , it's about
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Phil , in the rod building trade most of it's subjective and a lot of it is also basic common sense . Stuff like "feeling", "smooth", "soulful" "light", "fast", and "accurate" is impossible to measure from one person to the next . You mentioned feet, yards, ounces, pounds, breaking point, feet per second and hoop strength , you can m
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Dennis Penton: " Standby for step 2" Dennis . any clue as to how long you want us to remain in "Standby" mode , a ballpark figure would work, like say a week ,2 weeks . a few months or early 2020 ? The reason i'm asking is because i need to use the facilities , i have not moved an inch waiting in full standby mode since you ordered for us to be in standby mode
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Oh no lol , every post in this thread has attempted to get Dennis to completely remove all thoughts of the NGC & concentrate just on the KR guidelines since he is finding it exceedingly difficult to separate the KR from the NGC , he's got to be more confused than ever now , probably heaved his rod building equipment out the window and took up bowling.
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This is one of the most asked questions in the history of rod building and i would bet it will continue to be asked when all of us are long gone , if you use the search feature thousands of pages asking about whether spine matters will pop up. What contributes to the continued confusion , large rod building suppliers still insist it matters and they have written instruction's on the need to fi
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Dennis Penton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- " So now if I use the 25H instead of the 20H, and the 12H instead of the 10H, doesn't the location on the rod change a bit? I thought, as a general rule, that larger guides move further back on the blank? Also do I leave out the 7M, and go right to the 5.5L" The guide location will change minimal
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Dennis the below is why you're confused , the below link IS NOT the correct method for what you're doing . The correct theory is the below : Michaels info above is what you should follow . Since you bought the guide kit which DOES NOT come with the most recommended guides it's not all bad news . You said you're using 20 pound braid so just use the 25H instead of the 20H ,
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Bruce Phillips Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Any harm in not sanding a delta smooth? Finally > got mine Tuesday. Absolutely not .
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Dennis Penton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So the diagram on Fuji's site is misleading? > > ept(NGC).aspx > > This is what I'm having trouble with. If I try to > mimic the diagram with my Stradic 400 Ci4, the > choke point goes up 3/4 of the shaft. That cannot > be right? Right? Dennis, stop confusing the NGC with t
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OK, i decided to try and make it even easier for Dennis so i took my 8 foot inshore rod out and went in search for my Shimano Stradic 4000 FK which i always pair it with . I built this gem last year using the KR GPS software . I use 10 pound 832 on it and i have tested and retested it to death and it's an incredible performer . Don't forget this is my personal build and your build will be dif
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I agree with Allen , redo the GPS measurements because it should recommend a 20 H , 10 H and a 5.5 M for the rod length and reel size you specified . If you're using heavier braid it the software will recommend a 25 H , 12 H , 5.5 M the guide kits confuse a lot of people because they come with guides that are not the most recommended by Fuji when using the Fuji KR GPS software . You certain
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Herb. > > Look at the library for the article "Eliminate > Broken Rods", Tom is in pictures 8 &9. > > Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines. Thank you Robert , as soon as i saw him i recognized him as the guy who said Tom slipped out the back door .
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I was looking for Tom last year but i couldn't locate him, after many hours of brainstorming i figured out that it would be best to have a general idea of what he looks like before going on my trek to find him, was about to hire a private investigator to try and locate him but i decided to hang out at the "RodMaker" booth instead , stayed at the Rodmaker booth from 8:00 am till closing
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I started out thinking a tension rod was a good idea but after wrapping with it i scrapped it and went back to just using thread tension as i found it quicker and easier. Thread tension is controlled by a combination of the thread spool and the blanks rolling resistance while i'm wrapping , i can step away at anytime and not lose any tension whatsoever.
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