Mike, I just finished a Graphite USA BSW65H that I cut down to 6'. I havent used it yet but I cant wait till October when TG season opens LI NY, I think I have a winner. I wanted to try graphite for tog because of the sensitivity, with tog you got to be on top of things or you'll get robbed blind. The Lamiglass' mentioned above should work extremely well too.
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Thank you gentlemen, your feedback will help me out alot. MAN what a reel!
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I know this isnt a rodbuiding subject, but I was wondering if anybody has ever done business with Charkbait. They have a limited production run Avet reel that I absolutely must have but I want to make sure they are good business men.
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Is it just the stripper guide thats going to be a roller or all of them? The roller guide is not going to flex too much while the blank will depending on what kind of taper it has and how stiff it is. This leaves the thread and the epoxy with most of the stress. I would do a size A underwrap and at least a C or D overwrap, maybe double. Thats just me.
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Does anyone know where to get ThreadMaster finish?
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Neal, I tried to find the picture again but didnt have any luck. I see that Mr. Batson has listed the model numbers, maybe you can bounce them off of your inventory. I would greatly appreciate. Thank you gentlemen for the response, I look forward to using your product Mr. Batson.
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Does anyone know where to find one of these? I saw one mounted on a rod in the photo gallery but I cant find it online, anywhere! It looks like a solid piece of gear.
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Tom, thanks for the info, I build mostly casting rods and and therefore the guides are on top so I always orient the spine just for good measure.
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Brian, C or D will work fine. You might want to put a double overwrap but only where the guide feet end about 1/8 or 1/4 inch our so to cover the end of the foot. This is where old wraps start to fail first. If you pick up an old factory rod you'll notice sometimes the epoxy is cracking right around that area. Or just build up the epoxy more in this area. Just a thought
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I think talking to the customer is important, they should know that if the spine is 90 degres to the left or right the rod might want to "wander" in that direction and if you dont have a good grip on it (wood instead of foam) you might find yourself with two fights.
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I stand corrected Eric, I'll but out of fly rod conversation from here on out. :-)
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Mark, I would stay away from hot glue unless fly rods are different from regular rods. Hot glue will get soft on a hot summer day and the last thing you want is your tip sliding around when your trying to reel in your catch.
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I've had flexcoat crystallize like that, I hate to see it go to waste. I have noticed that even after microwaving and mixing with hardener that it still doesnt apply as well as "fresh" epoxy does. My theory is that no matter how hard you tighten the caps on the plastic bottles, air always finds its way in there and causes the crystallization. (at least in my book). What I think the
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Ralph, I rarely use CP. I have used it once but it was because I wanted a particular color and couldnt find it in NCP thread. If I am going for the stained glass look I usually use a metallic and regular thread and the Flex Coat on top.
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Thank you Gentlemen, I appreciate your advice.
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Samer, I have built both and both are great blanks, no complaints from either. I want to lean towards Calstar because of the attention to detail that was paid in its construction. The blank was a little truer and the little hole in the tip was centered perfectly! which I have never seen before. Again both great blanks but a little edge to Calstar.
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RST is the coordinating tip for the RSG series guides which I didnt know, I managed to locate the tips (Mudhole or DONART) but I thought this series was a stronger version of the LRSG and not a whole new concept like the straddle leg guides, they look similar but I guess theres some advantage to the straddle leg set up. Not too sure. Will look into. Jason
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There will be no issues with compatibility but just to piggy back on Mike Anderson's comment; depending on what colors you use, regular thread can look very attracive when no CP is used, it becomes whats called "traslucent" or semitrasparent. Reds and garnets in particular look very well over pearl or metallic thread, it kind of looks like stained glass. Try to use a light color or me
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Do you know if I have to go through Fuji itself or do I have to contact a retailer and special order them. Thank you Billy
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Does anyone know where I can order Fuji RST series guides and tops. These are heavy salt water guides. I have seen similar spin off brands but not the real thing. Thanks
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As far as finishes, I've heard that Flex Coat actually works well on wood even though it is meant for thread. I'm curious myself and am going to experiment with it.
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As far as finishes, I've heard that Flex Coat actually works well on wood even though it is meant for thread. I'm curious myself and am going to experiment with it.
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Dave, Cabelas has a rod building section and they have a couple of different options including an epoxy that comes in packets, kind of like towelettes, and seems pretty simple to use. You may want to try them. The main thing though is that the finish has to be flexible enough to bend with the rod. Good luck and welcome to rod building.
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