Scott, I just purchased the Jet 1236 after doing a bit of research and bugging (numerous times) Andy (Dear). I got it from Amazon because they had free shipping and it was the lowest price I could find. I looked at the smaller Jet but after figuring the price of the lathe and the additional prices of an extension bed and stand, I felt the 1236 was a better bargain in the long run since it came
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Tom (or anyone else qualified to answer), Could you explain (or direct me to a source) the rules in brief regarding the Charlotte show? Basically, what is and isn't allowed. Obviously, common sense comes into play here but I just wasn't sure if cameras (for example) were permitted. I certainly don't want to unknowlingly offend someone or break the rules. Thanks, Randy.
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Craig, It's a very simple pattern to do. Just lay out 8 axis and mark your spacing. I do mine exactly like Clemens' thread book states meaning a lighter colored underwrap with dark (usually black) borders. I start mine on the left side with 4 dark threads then 4 light threads coming back. Just keep alternating until you get the size you need. Randy.
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Craig, I'm working on one right now and I do all mine on 8 axis. They are actually a very simple wrap to make. I get more comments on this pattern than any others. Randy.
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Andy, I'd like to see one of those CTS blanks in white. Randy.
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Ralph, Jimi at Decal Connection is awesome. I can't say how the older decals were but the new ones are a snap to apply. My decal is about 2.5" long and I never have a problem. I always sandwich mine bewteen coats of finish because I like it to look suspended and glassy. In regards to #3 mine have my company name on top with "custom built by" underneath. I never put the rod we
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Curtis, I use Aftcote all the time and really like it. I used to use LS Supreme but I like Aftcote a bit better. It has an extremely long pot life and handles external heat very well. It can sometimes be finicky as far as mixing exact measurements go but as long as you measure properly no problems. As far as longevity, I've never had a problem with it. You might want to also look at Threadm
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Warren, If you go to Renzetti (sponsor on the left) they sell the DVD alone very cheap. Randy,
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Keith, And Jim is modest and not explaining his tool so I guess I will. My first couple of weaves were just simple name weaves using about 10 threads or so and double-stick tape. I bought Jim's Wonder Weaver and use it all the time. I think the most intricate pattern I've done involves about 90 threads. His tool came with a DVD and I bought Doc's DVD as well. If you watch both of those DVD'
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When I get done sliding the foregrip in place, I dry clean the epoxy from the blank using no alcohol or acetone (dry paper towel). Leaves just enough residue to slide the winding check in place without a buildup. I position it then clean the remaining glue off the blank with alcohol. Randy.
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Mike, Your absolutely right. I get very frustrated every time I (repeatedly) have to crank down the chuck. It really gets amplified with the larger butts of the heavier saltwater blanks. I'm going to bite the bullet after XMAS and buy a Renzetti. Randy.
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Brian, The pictures are a bit deceiving (in my opinion). In the top photo I agree with Jay that it appears as though the roller closest to the tip could be moved a tad up (towards the tip). But the second photo looking down has the guides being right on. Not sure if it's the photos or the way the rod is being loaded. Or maybe my eyes...The "striper" is a nice touch as well. Randy.
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Ditto!
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Mikko, I've got the American Tackle wrapper which I think is very similar to the Pac Bay model. It works fine but I agree with Fred that the chuck could be much better. Mine loosen's up all the time. I think that is a pretty good deal for both the wrapper and dryer. Randy.
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Mike, You hit on a very good point there. For instance, there is a builder in my area that has a shop strickly for building "custom" rods. He uses nothing but the cheapest components available, no decorative thread art whatsoever and the same colors on all his rods. Every one looks identical. He says he has to sell a certain number of rods to keep the doors open so he doesn't have
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Yup, I second that. Randy.
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Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I did send an email off to Gudebrod awaiting an answer so maybe I can get something better than just a printout like Mike suggested. Scott, that's a very good suggestion that might be an option. Randy.
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I provide a lifetime warranty on workmanship for the length of time the original buyer owns the rod. I also try to use blanks that have a good manufacturer's warranty as well. Both of these are explained in detail to the customer. Randy.
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If I only paid $60.00 for it and it was gift to a family member. Free. If it was to a customer I'd figure the time into it and come up with a fair price probably in the neighborhood of $125.00 to $200.00. Randy.
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Does anybody know of a source (if one's available) to get a decent Gudebrod thread color chart? What I am looking for is not just a printed sheet of paper but more along the lines of a professional display (for customers). I've got a homemade one (with finish) on a section of blank but it doesn't seem professional enough to me. I didn't see anything on the Gudebrod site. Thanks, Randy.
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Frantz, If you go the Renzetti (sponsor on the left) you can get Jim Upton's DVD on using the Wonder Weaver very cheap. Even though it primarily shows you how to set up and use the Wonder Weaver, it also shows how to create weave pattterns. Price can't be beat. Randy.
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Tom, Just curious what the card announcements were. Do they go out to all who subscribes to the magazine? I'm just wondering since this will be my first show and I hadn't heard anything about them. Thanks, Randy.
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Jesse, You have to be careful about copyright issues. For example, I built a rod using a famous sports team's colors and weaved in their actual logo. This rod actually went to the owner/prsident of the team and I am trying to get permission to legally build them. The decision is binding as we speak but I know they are extremely finicky about who's using ther logos. And, making money on top o
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Tom, There are a couple "tackle" shops up there in Havasu but none (that I know of) that sell components. I get all my stuff online. You can email me at my personal address and I'll elaborate. Randy.
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Ken, That's what I look for. Basically, trying to even the load across the length of the blank. Randy.
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Tom, Welcome and I see your from Parker (AZ). I've got a 2nd place in Havasu so I'm out there all the time. Just give a shout if I can be of any help to ya. Randy.
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Lance, Go the sponsor's list on the left at the very top and you can find out all the info you'll need on the show in Charlotte. I also left a post on your other question. Randy.
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Lance, I've got an American Tackle Power Wrapper and a FlexCoat four rod dryer (18 rpm). The dryer works great as does the wrapper but the wrapper's chuck quality could be better. There is an upgrade chuck available but before I buy that I'm considering the Renzetti which I think is the best wrapper/rod lathe out there. It really depends on your needs and how much you want to spend. You can
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Tony, If your looking for a finish that has an extremely long pot life and handles heat well then consider Aftcote. I use to use LS Supreme but like Aftcote better. BUT, I just used Andy's mix and have to say I am very impressed. It does exactly what everyone else here says it does. I made the mistake of slighty overheating the small resin bottle in the microwave but thought I give the finis
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You can also sparingly try using a small torch or flame to heat the metal and see if it expands any. It's probably heated treated metal so it may or may not work. But of course that's with caution trying not to cause any more damage to anything else. Maybe heat it a bit just enough to possibly work that wrench head out. Also, might consider using an easy-out if you can get one small and stron
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