Thank you to all for the numerous responses with invaluable information. I sincerely appreciate all of you taking the time to help me. Most of the suggestions were quite consistent and I can now feel comfortable purchasing a suitable walleye blank for my cousins. I’m just waiting for it all to digest. YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!!
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A sincere thanks to all responding to assist someone clueless regarding walleye rods. I sincerely appreciate your input and wisdom. One thing I have noticed throughout the replies is a preference toward somewhat shorter rods, most in the 6ft range. While certainly not disputing but rather eager to learn, does anyone care to elaborate?
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Ron, thank you for the prompt reply. The rods you suggested are certainly within my price range. I should have mentioned in my original post that, due to traveling, the rods would have to be 2-piece for easier, more compact transporting. A tip-over-butt is certainly desired and inherently better over having to fabricate CF or FG sleeves. Do you offer similar, 2-piece rods?
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I would like to build both a spinning and a casting rod for my five Minnesota cousins to use on their yearly walleye fishing trip to Canada. Being a west coast trout, yellowtail and tuna kind of guy, I have no idea which rods are best suited for walleye. It is my understanding they troll to locate the fish and then use jigs (and Lindy rigs?) and crawlers to put fish in the boat. I am not concerne
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Spencer & Michael, thank you for taking the time to respond. With my limited knowledge of spiral wrapped rods, I needed to be certain the wrong guides, apparently there are none, were not employed in the build, especially the sloped or angled rings of the KW’s. I certainly appreciate your input and insight.
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Are there any particular guides which are better suited to spiral wrapping a rod? These will be mounted on an approximately 25lb, 9’6” vintage FG blank for <50lb ocean fishing. While my go-to guides would be Fuji KW’s or MN’s, I would like to learn from you veterans which guides you would prefer for this application and why. Thank you for your time, concern and appreciated guidance.
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Rick, it is my understanding the Fuji LC (Low Rider), positioned in reverse, is used as a stripper guide to eliminate line slap of the ring braces, similar in theory to the Fuji RV.
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As suggested, possibly the best thing for me is to just jump in and do it. Securing but not affixing the guides to the blank so they can be repositioned and running a line through them to static test, loaded and unloaded, will probably self explain many issues, even for my over worked brain. Are there any specific guides which are better suited for a spiral wrap or can I stay with my go-to KW’s o
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Hold on, guys! I understand and am more than comfortable with the spiral wrap concept and plan on utilizing it on my next build. Excuse me if not making that clear in my previous posts. The only issue I have is the path the line takes while transitioning. John Powell referred to “the ‘natural’ line path” which is correct but completely different from traveling in a “straight path” as stated in an
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Thanks, Ken. Nice video! But what happens with a big fish on? lol
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Phil, it was meant as a joke when I mentioned angle drilling through a blank to improve on the spiral wrap concept in my post “Wave guides and Acid wraps” a few days ago, in which you responded four times. But it got you thinking which is always a good thing. A word of caution, though, on becoming an Over Thinker like me!
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Thomas, Thank you for your reply. Mr. Martens is the first I’ve heard of using the MicroWave system during tournament fishing. You mentioned his use of a spinning rod which made me reflect on the few bass tour shows I have watched and I cannot remember seeing anyone using a spinning rod, only casting. I would think the MicroWave system would be more effective/noticeable controlling the chaotic co
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Mel, impressive reply and thanks. I don’t know if I am qualified to be the one to wake up the SoCal salt water guys to acid wrapped rods. Maybe they are more into pot than acid! I know I certainly WAS, 40 years ago. Joking aside, even though only seeing one spiral wrap on display in a tackle store out here while never on a party boat, I am 95% convinced to build this 9’6” vintage Garcia Conolon F
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After my last post, Phil’s questions got me thinking (Oh no, here I go again). I am a trout or tuna kind of angler, so watch the bass tournaments infrequently at best. How many bass, or walleye for that matter, tour guys use MicroWave guides and/or acid wraps?
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Good questions, Phil. I am interested in learning from the replies.
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Thanks to all responding with such good information, opinions and insight. I am intrigued with the concept of how to get the line down to the bottom of a rod where many of us believe it will perform best but needed information and opinions as I have yet to see one on a party boat during numerous trips to and around the islands here in So Cal and none of my fishing acquaintances own one. Additiona
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Phil, you are correct, on a casting setup, after the stripper guide, the next one or two spiral down to the underside of the rod. Another name for this is the “Acid wrap”. Who knows, maybe there has been a rod builder on acid who spiraled his guides up to the top on a spinning set up as well.
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With all due respect, I am quite certain Phil was referring to the transition guides of a spiral wrap, whether it (they) be 90 or at 60 & 120 degrees from the 0 – 180 degree axis.
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One of the possible down side to guides on the bottom of a rod is the inherent attempt of the line to pull the guide off rather than push it into the rod while under tension (fish on). In effect, the wrap is solely relied upon to retain the guide on the underside of a rod rather than simply keeping it located while mounted on the top. While probably not of concern with fish under 10lbs, hard char
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Keep that great info coming!!! Chris, I will definitely keep your contact info = thanks.
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Thank you to those responding so far. I agree with Tom and John, as well as the physics and obvious, that guides perform better on the bottom of a rod. Transitioning from the top to bottom has me inquiring, though. I have already thought of Chris’ suggestion of using airwave guides to Acid wrap my vintage FG saltwater casting rod. That would certainly be optimizing my composite business motto of
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Hi to all you happy wrappers, and even the grumpy ones if there are any. While I am rather conservative in the way I approach most things, particularly fabricating in which I include rod building, I also realize the importance and benefits modern technology. But as with all aspects of life there are checks and balances, and the majority of the time to gain on one side of the scale results in a l
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McMaster Carr = quality products, fair prices, great customer service, awesome shipping. Look for gear reduction motors, both 12VDC or 110VAC.
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Russell, Phil and Michael, thank you for responding. Graduating from either of the schools Russell mentioned would afford the same diploma. Phil, a single wet-out thread may not be noticeably stronger but an entire structure, the wrap, will certainly be. Many people are unaware of the mechanics and actually what makes a fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) composite work so well. Thread wraps are i
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I am flattered, if not pleasantly surprised, so many of you veterans take the time to assist newbies like me. This time it is Norman and thanks so much! While you have responded and assisted to other of my posts prior to this, and many from different people as well, allow me to confirm my appreciation. Your knowledge, experience and willingness to share that accumulation is overwhelming and appre
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Thank you for replying, Norman and Randy. My original intent did not include the need to be “scientific”. I have read other posts similar to Norman’s and have experienced the ease of peeling some wraps from a blank, probably due to the use of CP. I was unaware of possible cracking or crazing down the road though so thanks, Norman. This was my first use of CP as the color of the thread got way too
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Encapsulation does not even require adhesion, which is why the insulating sleeve of electrical wire can be easily stripped from its copper conductors inside. I deal with structural epoxy’s inability to penetrate or be absorbed by Aramid fabrics (encapsulation only) on a daily basis, and most nylons are similar. The issue here is will the epoxy finish wick through (penetrate) the CP impregnated ny
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Good info and makes sense. Thanks, Tom.
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Thanks, Roger. That is the shortest, yet encompassing of your replies I’ve seen. Thanks also, Tom. My question should have been stated; does the epoxy finish penetrate the overwrap well enough to penetrate, or encapsulate, the underwrap if CP has been applied? But then, Roger has answered that.
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I may be guilty of over thinking again (still), but would prefer to not experience failures with my under-overwraps. Does CP restrict epoxy penetration of the thread, especially if underwrapped? Would it be better to apply thread finish to the underwrap prior to the finish, overwrap? Any and all comments, other than regarding my habitual over thinking, will be graciously accepted and appreciated
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