Woody, thank you for taking the time to offer your input and insight. I believe you are correct in that Conolon did not use the star designations prior to Garcia joining forces. Five stars being the top of the line would seem more universally accepted. While the no-star, black rod I have used less expensive guides without inserts, all the wraps are spaced spiraled as was common back then and the
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Thank you, Tom. You are always a wealth of information and your input is graciously respected. I am experiencing difficulty locating more information regarding the significance of their, we’ll just say, “Star identification system”. I would think, and most of you know by now I am guilty of over-thinking, the stars represent the use of different components, agate guides, better cork, ferrules, pai
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Top of the day, or evening, to all and thanks for responding to clarify. Through my research, I have learned that the old Garcia Conolon rods were given a “star” rating, with no stars being the top quality and five stars given to the bottom quality rods. This is the inverse of what one, at least me, would normally think. Are any of you familiar with their vintage rating system? I would feel more
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Thank you to all responding, even though not receiving the answer I hoped for. As anticipated, the decals will receive a coat of thread epoxy. One cannot argue with a unanimous opinion, especially from veterans like all of you. Phil, from other similar posts, I am afraid to use PG or similar products because their “hot” nature. Donald, my respect and passion for, along with desire to “breathing
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Thanks for the Klass Kote information. From Doug’s usage observations, I would agree it may not be worth attempting to use as a rod finish, especially utilizing a wiping application. Thanks, Doug. Back to the automotive urethane clears, all have additional flex additives for use on the soft bumpers of most present-day autos.
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Hi to all and thanks for reading. I am attempting to preserve the Garcia – Conolon decal and logo on this vintage rod. Following suggestions received from earlier post on this forum, I have coated the decals with CP and, fortunately, experienced no lifting of the decals and all looks very good. The original plan was to put a coat of thread epoxy over them, all the way around the blank, between t
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Spencer’s answer is the most conclusive of all; lighter is better. It is all about physics in general and “polar moment of inertia” in particular. Think about it; added weight in the butt section to “balance” a rod still, none the less, has to be accelerated in the initial portion of the cast and also decelerated at the end of the cast. The only thing left is convincing everyone else that a two f
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Good input, James and Bill. Thank you. The most difficult issue I have encountered is dealing with the 1/2 in difference in the diameter from tip to butt (or ferrule). There are others who have previously agreed with me that an automotive urethane clear would probably be the best rod finish, as discussed on a previous post. But there are limiting factors, though, including a quart being the small
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Thank you, Tom. Your input is always respected.
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Thank you for responding, Thomas. I will remember that method but right now the cosmetic pad is working very well.
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Hi to all and hoping you are so well, it isn’t fair to the rest of us. Are any of you familiar with, used, heard of or know anything about vintage “Pactra Rainbow Rod Varnish”? I found this 2oz glass jar in my Dad’s old tackle box and would like to know more about it. Being 94, Dad can’t remember having / using it let alone when he purchased it. I’m estimating early 50’s but he could have purcha
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You’re the best Norman! I will graciously accept your offer if unable to locate the larger, circular, Kroger brand cosmetic pads. I cannot imagine anything else performing better. While the finish did not come out perfect, I give it an honest 90 – 95% which is acceptable while experimenting and learning. I am confident, thanks to your assistance, all the future refinished rods will be 99 – 100%.
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Norman, Tom, Paul & Lynn, Blank refinish update if interested. I just wanted to thank you guys again for assisting me PG finish my blank. With their very fine, micro size, open cells, the cosmetic pads worked exceptionally well. I discovered a hole was needed (before reading Norman’s last post) or the pad became too tight on the blank, leaving to light of a coat. I used 0.5 OD X 0.14 wall b
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Thanks also to Paul and Lynn for taking the time to respond and assist. I purchased the Kroger pads not realizing they were such small triangles, but really like the fine cell construction. Poking the blank through the PG saturated small pad is a great idea for smaller rods, but this old FG Conolon is a fatty with a 3/4in butt section, bigger than the pad itself. I may see what McMaster Carr has
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Tom, Does it include procedures other than working faster / more efficiently once the epoxy is mixed?
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Norman, Touché’ on the California cancer! While we may not have the same hardware stores out here as elseware, we all have Kroger brand grocery items and hopefully the cosmetic pads as well. Finer cell construction certainly seems like a plus, but I will still pretest them just in case our California spec pads differ from the geographically different / immune world. Your time, kindness and will
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Thanks Tom and Norman. Dang newbies don’t know dittily-stink! At least this newbie knows enough to ask for qualified, professional and reliable help on this website. Norman, does your wife know you have been ripping off her cosmetic pads? Please tell me you don’t use them other than for rod construction. Without any pads to rip off in my household, it’s off to Home Depot for foam paint brushes.
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Bill, Also being new to rod building, there may be those who may believe I am not as qualified as the veterans to respond. I cannot afford a grand to stock up and besides, I am a self admitted cheap bast!@*. I certainly agree with Tom. Additionally, because you are new, building up an inventory with the guides you like today and think you will also use later may restrict future guide choice dec
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Hi to all you happy wrappers, thanks for reading and hopefully assisting to resolve my Perma Gloss issues. Without using PG before, I read the application directions and purchased a couple good quality, 3/8in artist brushes. The first coat applied to the rotating butt section resulted in a slightly streaky, lumpy finish, obviously from my “thin” coat being thicker than what PM considers thin. Al
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Dang, I missed you guys!
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David, Good point on the stress point of the blank. While still a tad leery, after all, it's the tip of the rod, I'm still thinking, thanks to you. Here I go, yet again, over-thinking. Thanks for your concern, insightful knowledge while thinking out of the box, and affording me assistance.
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David, thanks for the reply. Glad to find someone other than myself who appreciates the absolute beauty, not to mention the unmistakable feel, of the vintage FG rods, Conolon in paticular. I hadn’t thought of that remedy, but this is a perfect example why this newbie asks so many questions of you veterans such as you. The rod tip wall thickness is pretty hefty at 0.034, meaning the tip top wou
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Nick, I am also partial to Fuji guides in general and KWs in particular with their sloped rings. The Rainshadow rods are well liked by just about everyone on this site. But with any 30lb+ rod, I would think you should consider moving up to the MNs just because. I am curious what others will suggest for sizing also as I will be wrapping a similar set up in the near future. All these new concepts
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Curtis, Thank you for responding. If I try your procedure and it doesn’t work, I’m going to hunt you down. Just kidding, I appreciate your advice. Not that I don’t agree with you, and actually figured that was the best way to go, but I was hoping to receive more replies, input and techniques in hopes of learning a magical, fool proof method or referrals to a vintage rod restorer in the know.
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Adam, John and Russell are correct. Additionally, some of the lower end ocean boat guides are chrome plated and seam to corrode quickly leading me to wonder if they are regular steel under the plating. There are two common SS alloys in guide manufacturing; 304, which John stated, and also 316. While 304 offers good corrosion resistance and is less expensive, 316 is the best of all the easily ob
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Touche, John.
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A glorious, god day to all and prior thanks to those, hopefully, responding. Who sells the old school Mylar tape used under vintage, spiraled thread wraps? Remember, if your parents didn’t have children, chances are you won’t either.
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After reading previous posts and their following comments concerning finishing over decals / stickers, I am in hopes of further assistance with my issue. I would like to preserve / finish over a vintage Garcia Conolon decal. With its age, it has developed a few shrinkage splits and one flaked off corner, obviously indicating its frailness. What would you veterans do to seal it prior to finish? CP
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Sam, Roger and Donald are correct in that a good wax will have a limited effect on preventing scratches while boonie-bashing. However, the slicker the surface (surface tension) of the rod is, the better the chances of a twig sliding off before having a chance mark your rod. The key word is limited. While Donald has a very good point concerning contaminates in the water not being good for the fin
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Jerry and David, Thank you for taking the time to reply and assist. I will investigate the offerings at Get Bit. All the guides will be Fuji KW’s with 8 runners. This beautiful, old, FG, 20-25lb? Garcia Conolon surf spinning rod is being converted to a live bait / surface jig casting rod so I will be able to use it more. It should be fun to use for yellow tail, WSB, even calico. But I would love
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