Getting some great input guys! Thanks!
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That's what I was thinking - it would get expensive - that's why I was asking for recommendations with pros and cons through other builders experiences.
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I use Prokote regular / hi build and it is the only epoxy finishes I have worked with. I am looking to expand my knowledge of materials and would like thoughts and recommendations on which epoxy to try next.
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As always - thanks for the info Tom !
Forum: rodboard

I have built a few spinning rods lately using the 27x method and like it. However, I just used this formula on a 6'6" rod and the choker guide hit 8" from the tip. This made me wonder about a few things using this method. 1. If you use a large enough reel - you can actually miss the end of the rod with the choker guide. So, I assume that it is necessary to make sure the reel that is
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Do you use a clear primer? If so, what kind?
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As I mentioned above - I want to protect the magic swirl material from rubbing off over time
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I emailed a question to Mudhole rod building about a product they carry - magic marbling mad swirl. My question was "will this product stay on the EVA or is there a sealer that needs to applied after the mad swirl". The answer I received is that they have had success by putting epoxy over the mad swirl because over time the paint may begin to rub off. Has anyone ever applied epoxy to EV
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do you put the marked thread on all axes, or just 0 and 180?
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I get that part on a blank - but what if you put an under wrap prior to the design ?
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I have done a few open wraps with a base thread underneath. I used an ink pen to dot my layout marks on the under wrap, but it bled and spread out enough it could be seen in the open areas. what do you guys and girls use to mark on the under wrap threads or do you put finish on the under wrap before doing the chevrons, etc.?
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I have been using Prowrap and like it. I also have some Fishhawk but it seems to have a lot of fuzzies after burnishing.
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I'm definitely no pro but I have recently stripped 10 old rods of my own like this: 1. Strip and sand up to 1200 grit wet/dry. 2. Apply adhesion promoter as instruction 3. Painted with Createx primer with air brush 4. 2 coats of Createx wicked colors 5. 2 coats of Spraymax 2K urethane Then I built the rod blank from there like I had purchased it new. I just used Prokote hi build e
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search the internet - order number of Fuji guide - it takes you to Merrick tackle - this was the best info on Fuji guides I have found
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toothpicks, fine tip artist brush, and plastic dental picks
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I do as Tom suggested - stiffer brush and less epoxy if I'm using a hi build along with heat. If I am doing guide wraps I use a lite build so it will flow easily into the tunnels again applying a little heat. Jon
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Doesn't that make the threads stick together?
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Good idea! Thanks!
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That's the way I've been doing it as well - I heated the top layer of thread and let it cool before I removed the sac threads, but wen I applied the CP , it caused a couple of threads to move. Like I said above , I probably just need to tighten my wrap just a bit more. Thanks for your responses and Thanks Doc for your you tube videos - I've watched them all QUITE a number of times - Your cra
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Steve, Do you thin every coat of CP this way or just the 1st coat of a holo wrap?
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Thanks Steve, obviously I needed to increase the tension, and I like the idea of thinning the 1st coat of CP with distilled water. Jon
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I have been working with Tiger wraps lately (Beautiful wrap!). Anyway, the only problem I seem to have at this point is the remaining thread on the over wrap (after sacrificials have been removed) will shift in a few places when I apply the 1st coat of color preservers(I try very hard to not touch the threads). I wrap with decent tension on the threads. (I get great movement), heat the wrap, and
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Hi Tom, I understand that, but my question is whether or not to disturb the top layer of threads as well. The written tutorials basically say to wrap, burnish evenly, heat, wait, then remove the sacrificial threads.
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Hey everyone, I have done about 7 tiger wraps with mixed results. All acceptable, but some better than others. I have read articles from the online library as well as watched Doc Ski on you tube. The video with Doc shows him burnish the under wrap in one direction and the top threads in the opposite direction, but the written articles do not mention the need to burnish in the opposite directio
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kind of what I thought guys. It was already a mh, so I think it now will be a slow heavy action rod that I will build out as a bottom/drift salt water fishing rod. thanks for the input!
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I have a rod that is broken 18" from the tip. I do not have the piece that was broken off. It was a 7 Ft. 6 in. Spinning rod and now it is 6 Ft. Long. I have stripped the entire rod (reel seat, butt and fore grip, guides, and finish.) Is there any way to add an 18 " piece to the rod successfully or should I just rebuild it as a 6' rod? Thanks, Jon
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its a tip over butt. Male end on butt section, female on tip section.
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Thanks Tom - I will give it a shot
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I use FW acrylic artist ink and a quill pen. It flows great and they have every color on the chart!
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I thought about that, but what I want to accomplish is to butt the 2 pieces together so the joint is flush and the taper is smooth. I thought I might use my calipers and cut the butt section of the rod to match exactly with the female section of the tip. Then, use the male end of the piece I cut and insert it into both ends as a Ferrell. Does that make any sense?
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