Hello all, First of all - HAPPY THANKSGIVING! I am looking into upgrading my wrapper - Right now I have an American tackle with the upgraded aluminum chuck. I have a few questions about the Renzetti Craftsman. 1. When setting in front on the lathe - does turn away from you or towards you? - the one I have now turns away from me. 2. Does it have a drying motor on it or do you
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What type of reel are you using? Spinning or conventional?
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It seems to be a soft clear material like the epoxy thread finish(which I have always understood should be lightly sanded if too much time passes between coats) - obviously you don't have an adhesion issue?
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Hello all, I recently posted a question about buying and applying Abalone inlays on the rod blanks. To those of you that do this on a regular basis, I have this question - Do you scuff or lightly sand the coating on the abalone inlay sheets prior to applying the epoxy finish?
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Thanks Ken !
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ok, so I assume you boil it until there is a visual change in the backing on the veneer- basically it should look saturated- right? Then, peal backing off and apply the veneer to the rod blank going slowly and using my fingers only. Then, wrap with thread until the veneer has fully cooled back to room temperature. Remove thread, put on the end wraps, apply finish. Sound right? Where do
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Anyone have any experience with the materials from aqua blue Maui?
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Thanks Eddie, I assume the 1/8 " overlap is kind of absorbed in the finish like when you finish an open diamond or chevron?
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However, I would still like to hear responses and recommendations from everyone else!
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ok, Thanks Ken. I will wait to hear from him.
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I have emailed him requesting information as well as price and availability of some veneers, but I haven't heard from him. Is he still doing business?
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I actually found some info that mentioned a CD tutorial, but I can't find where to buy it.
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yes, I looked at those videos, but I would like some in depth info from someone that possibly specializes in the abalone inlay. Maybe the procedure hasn't changed since Kevin did his article.
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I am interested in learning about abalone inlays. I have researched it quite a bit and have ordered the issue of rodmaker magazine that has the article Kevin Knox wrote, but that is about all the info I can find. Also, I wanted to get the best abalone sheets I can. Any information on the would greatly appreciated ! Thanks, Jon Hood
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Thanks guys!!!! That's the kind of input I was looking for !!!! Any more from someone else is also welcome !!! Jon Hood
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Hey Buzz, I have looked at the MHX rods and definitely may go that route . I was just wanting some of the local guys preferences with what they use and why they like the blanks for the different applications. Thanks for the input! Jon
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Hello all, Looking for rod blank recommendation for 3 applications: Fishing Southwest Florida area - Estero Bay, Pine island Sound, Boca Grande I prefer spinning reel setups with Penn Spinfisher /battle II reels but will listen to any recommendations. 1. Snook/Redfish artificial baits - topwater plugs, weighted plastics 2. Snook/Redfish - live bait - free line and popping
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Hi Tom, I am definitely no expert, but I have stripped and painted a number of rods in the past year. I tried the krylon fusion and it was ok but not really what I was looking for. It didn't seem to adhere that well for me even though I spent most of my time on the prep work. Anyway, I built a small rod paint box with ventilation. I actually started using an airbrush (autoaire paint for an ai
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Possible - but I always wipe down with denatured alcohol and dry just prior to applying epoxy.
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I have done it both ways - sealed and not. However, I prefer using Tru-oil over the cork sealer. To me, it brings out the color of the cork much better. You can also add as many coats as you like and even get it thick enough that the cork will never be touched (similar to a gun stock - as that's what Tru-oil is)
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I completed a rod a few months ago that looked great! The epoxy (prokote) recently slightly receded and somewhat curled at each end of the guide wraps. It was not overly thick and had a very nice taper about 1/8" past the thread on the guide wraps. What could cause this?
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if it bothers you that much and is noticeable after you replace the one - replace them all
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if it bothers you that much when you replace the damaged one - replace them all
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all I did when I noticed this was take a straw and lightly blow on the outside of the threads where the foot starts and it pushed the excess out - I just thought that if this was a common occurrence and normal, I would just leave it alone next next time.
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I just noticed something while applying Flexcoat CP to guide thread wraps - it wicks into the guide tunnels and pretty much fills them. Is this ok or should I always try to get it out so the epoxy can wick into the tunnel?
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I have been using Birchwood - Casey True-oil gunstock finish and really like it. You can coat it once or if you want a light sheen - as many times as you like.
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Happy Anniversary Tom!, Great job! I haven't been on the forum that long as I just started rod building 8 months ago, but I feel this forum saves people so much time in the trial and error stage of learning such an intricate and diverse hobby/business! I really enjoy being a part of it!
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if you could find tiny enough stencils, you could just spray paint them with an enamel paint.
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I do the same thing as Michael - write directly on the blank after I scuff the area with 600 grit paper. I use FW acrylic artist ink from hobby lobby - many colors to choose from. Then, I let it dry (usually overnight) and coat it with epoxy. I make sure not to drag the brush heavily over the writing and I have never had a problem.
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Hey Andrew, if you trim the reel seat down that much-how will you get the reel off when needed?
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