The Fuji may cost twice the Batson, but the Batson textured in 3x what the regular Batson is and I'm not sure any of them are worth over $15 when I can get graphite for 5 or 6.
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Similar to Fuji's cushioned seat that their rep showed me in Charlotte?
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Is it a hard/gritty texture or more soft and cushioned like EVA?
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I want to pick up a spool of 10lb to put on an ISP843-3 I recently built and was wondering the pros and cons of one vs. the other.
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I finished my new Rainshadow 843-3 last night - green blank, concept spinning, blue dun wraps w/ gold inlays, no CP, split grip made of improvised parts with decal and signiture on blank between split grips. Following observations: Love PG - 6 coats gave me that nice light "eggshell" finish that I trust will hold for years. Love Threadmaster - used it over the decal and signature. O
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Actually, I intentionally put PG around the lip of the can to seal it better (old oil filter trick). Maybe I'll just buy another can...
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I need to put a coat on tonight in order to put a decal over it before putting a second coat over that. In the past I have had trouble with long stretches getting "wavy".
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"Marty, You'll not likely get the lid back off your can..." Now that sounds like a challenge!
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But surely there is at least ONE out there who, as wonderful as this light blank (or I could do a 1024) is, has a surplus but really NEEDS a 1355.
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Can I refill the same can, or top it off w/ four more onces, and proceed; or do I need a new can when I empty this one?
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I posted this on the swap page. I picked up a blank labeled "ISA1355" - matt grey, two piece, about .7" at butt, 5/64 tip (seems to match Rainshadow specs from what I can tell), very straight, nicely finished - about a year ago. I got it for light saltwater work but upon talking to some folks realized that it won't exactly work for what I had in mind. Anybody got an IST993 or ot
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For the first time, today I put permagloss in one of the little cans w/ the screen door eye screwed into the bottom. I did everything the way I have heard to do it but the can was still leaking hours later. That bums me in that my plan was to make my 4oz go a long way, and I still probably have enough left for a while, but is there a trick to stop the leaking? For the time being I've tilted th
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I mean the wrap holding the guide on, not merely as an underwrap or trim band.
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I used it years ago but can't remember now. I know I can re-coat every two hours or so, but how many minutes between turns and how long before it kicks?
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I'm having to think about that a bit.
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The flame that burns twice as bright burns but half as long...
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Now that sounds pessimistic - how long do you expect me to live?
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What can I expect if I use Permagloss and no CP over a dark thread (I really like the deep translucent look of no CP) on a light surf stick over the years of intense sun? I know that PG has no UV inhibitors. Will a dark threat, say red in this case, just fade out over time?
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This will be awesome - roughly the same distance for me and much more conducive to what I'm looking for. My wife might even ride with me and go furniture shopping; what a minute, this may not be good...
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If I use Permagloss and no CP on the Scarlet/Black, will I retain the variegation or will it all blur? I like the way red threads with no CP go really deep colors.
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Colleen did a great job working through some kinks to get me components I needed to finish a rod - shipped that day and had them to me coast to coast in less than a week!
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For what it's worth, I notice your recent posts and think you are doing exactly what I did about a year ago. I picked up a 1264 steelhead blank and built it for light saltwater use. My approach was a little different in that I started with a BMNAG20 and went down to BLAG8s. I did this for two reasons - the size 20 to promote casting with an ABU 6500 size real and the 8s to give me enough heigh
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I know the components are Forecast. Are the blanks Rainshadow?
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I've heard both.
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Tom, I get what you're saying completely. I have the annoying problem of having on hand neither a BYAG8 or LVSG10, either of which would solve my problem I believe. Bend the BYAG10 you think?
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I think the HT is strong enough. I wrapped a light salt stick in it last year. Didn't catch much but I did beach a 30lb ray and nothing popped off, so I guess it'll hold.
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I'm setting up a new ISP843-3 for concept spinning. First guide is BYAG25 located 18 inches from spool face and I drop down BYAG16 and 10 to a choke/running guides of BLAG7. My question is that I notice to get the concept concentricity of the first 4 guides, as I come back toward the butt, I have 7.25 inches from BLAG7 to BYAG10, then only 6.25 inches from BYAG10 to BYAG16. Is this okay? I th
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Will the 20 be large enough if I occassionally use 10 lb. line on inlets at the coast?
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I was looking at the setup for a Rainshadow ISP843-3, using a Shimano Sahara 2000, 6 or 8 pound test and starting with a Fuji BYAG25 for the first guide. It looks to me like my first guide will only be 17" from the real face. Does this sound okay? I thought that 19 to 23 would be more the likely range. If it matters any, the choke will be on the ferrul to the third section which is about
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That's odd. Sounds like dimensions might vary from one model to the other, but the 2000 and 4000 are roughly the same in a given model?
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