Looking at some old posts, these appear to be possibly the same as the gorilla blanks by mudhole. Still looking for feedback.
Forum: rodboard

I've recently started mimicking the motorized mixer by hand. I had some leftover brand new ball bearings from a bicycle wheel rebuild. I throw one of those sucker in a cup with the epoxy, tilt the cup and turn by hand for about four and a half minutes. I scrape the sides with the other end of the brush I'm using once in a while, to make sure it all gets incorporated. I get very few bubbles th
Forum: rodboard

Anyone have experience with these? How does the action, strength and durability compare to a similarly rated Calstar or other well established blank? Looking specifically in the 6' 6" to 7' range in 20-40 or 20-50 type ranges in fast action.
Forum: rodboard

I think I'm gonna go with 8. I'm putting together my cart at mudhole. Thinking about using a Calstar 20-50 fast action on this build. Looking for my coupon code for mudhole!
Forum: rodboard

I can swing those. What size runners do you recommend for passing a 30 to 30 braid/mono connection. I use the FG or an Aussie quickie (Bimini in the braid with an uni connection to the mono).
Forum: rodboard

Ha ha the RVs look great, but I don't have that kind of cash. That guide layout alone would cost damn near as much as two whole rod builds that I normally do! I'll be putting these on a 50 dollar Rainshadow RX6/E-glass blend. Ok maybe a little exaggerated, but still. The 25 costs more than the blank!
Forum: rodboard

Interesting concept (no pun intended). It makes sense based on an article I read, because the tip and butt section don't put much stress on the guides. However, I've never seen a rod of this class and intended use with single footed guides. Does anyone have experience with heavy rods for yellowtail (or greater amberjack on the other coast) using single footed guides? For reference, I was t
Forum: rodboard

Hello gents! Finally finished a couple rods and ready for the next project. I'm looking to build a 20-40 lbs class rod for live bait. I have a 6000 series Baitrunner spinner. I built a 15-25 lbs class rod for it, but I decided to put 30 lbs line on it to live bait fish for yellowtail. This reel can put up a lot of drag. So now I'm a bit more versed in this hobby and have taken a liking to
Forum: rodboard

Deleted...double post
Forum: rodboard

Awesome stories! I never thought about watching the line flow. I thought it was just about distance! I do try to always do static bend tests. I hang the weight form the tip and run a separate line through the guides. Thanks for the inputs!
Forum: rodboard

I find that odd. I feel way more time crunched with FC than I ever did with PK. I'll be going back to ProKote after these bottles of FC are gone. I'm getting better and quicker with my application, but I still prefer the ability to be leisurely about it. Do you use a power wrapper? I feel like my application got much easier and better when I started applying at about 80-100 rpms.
Forum: rodboard

So I get the theory behind this, but just curious how you guys actually do it. I gotta be honest, I haven't taken this step in the custom world, but would like to on my next rod. So what do you do? I will guide you... Do you go to a local park? Do you bring a partner to measure? Do you measure distance, or just place markers to see which configuration works best? Do you bring a roll of m
Forum: rodboard

I don't know why, but my response was removed. Email me if you're still interested. randyweakley at yahoo dot com
Forum: rodboard

Are you making your own grip? If so why not install all the cork rings except the last couple or so. Then you could do your wrap, followed by installing the last couple cork rings. Then apply finish, followed by turning the grip to shape. Never done this, but just an idea.
Forum: rodboard

Micros are super tiny. If you're using a heavy mono leader and need to pass the knot with 30lb braid, I'd pass on those. Look on mud hole, they used to have an image of a micro sitting on top of a penny for reference. May still be there.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks as always Russ! I'll take it easy on my back when I get too old to fish ha ha! I'll probably go for the Rainshadow (Batson). I've already built two that I'm a huge fan of, one RCLB and one RCJB. I don't want to put extra money into this a la Calstar or Seeker. This will just be something to throw a Senator 112H on that's just sitting in my garage. Also to bring as an extra for my son
Forum: rodboard

Phil I'm glad you mentioned the short stout rod. So whats the difference between say a 5 foot rod with barely any action and a 7 foot rod that seats bending at two feet from the tip. Seems like the "effective" length of the rod would be similar, but with the added benefit of keeping pressure on the fish if for some reason it bolts toward you. This is something else I've thought of,
Forum: rodboard

Phil I'm glad you mentioned the short stout rod. So whats the difference between say a 5 foot rod with barely any action and a 7 foot rod that seats bending at two feet from the tip. Seems like the "effective" length of the rod would be similar, but with the added benefit of keeping pressure on the fish if for some reason it bolts toward you. This is something else I've thought of,
Forum: rodboard

It will definitely help make it more opaque.
Forum: rodboard

Yes indeed. I watched a fishing buddy (admittedly jealously) get dragged about for about 10 minutes in the yak. There was some concern as the fish pulled him around a lobster pot and associated buoy (sp?). But it ended up working out and he landed it. I was meanwhile trolling a diving Rapala and ended up connecting with a smaller one, but it shook the hook when I had it about 4' below the sur
Forum: rodboard

Oops that's a tough one. I've never used PG over CP. I know it's supposed to be "hot" and even melt some paints. Don't know what it'd do to CP. You could always test a wrap on a wooden dowel. That's what I do because I don't have a ton of scrap laying around.
Forum: rodboard

David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I was going to build a flipping/pitching rod for > bass on a moderate fast action blank because when > you're fishing up close and personal with a short > amount of line out, the chances the line will go > slack is greater. The problem I have is ....... > the blanks with moderate fast actions th
Forum: rodboard

Someone more experienced step in if I'm wrong, but that should disappear in the finish. I once completely lost the tiger effect behind a milky appearance after applying 2 or 3 coats of CP to an overwrap. But at Tom's suggestion, I applied finish. The effect came back with no hint of the milkiness.
Forum: rodboard

Yes their claim is correct. No it will not hurt, it will help it maintain the color even more so. But keep in mind if you are going to go through the trouble of applying CP anyways, nylon thread will yield more brilliant results with its sheen. I put some CP on a decal to seal the edges and mistakenly got some on some white NCP thread nearby. It was noticeable (under examination) when I put
Forum: rodboard

Can someone please help me understand this? I was asking for advice from the local crowd about blank selection for trolling live mackerel from my kayak. Was told you want a soft tip to absorb the shock (because braid is often used to cut through kelp) with "lots of backbone." So my thoughts were to go with a moderate action to make up for lack of stretch on the braid. Well apparentl
Forum: rodboard

Sweet...yeah I'm pretty excited. I built my son a rod on the same blank with a traditional NGC layout with micro running guides. Turned out reel nice (see what I did there?). Of course I couldn't get him to put down the bass rod I built him and try it out! Looking forward to trying the KR layout!
Forum: rodboard

I second Donald's technique. I always hold trim bands or inlays in my fingers while running the main wrap through the tensioning device. I'm by no means a pro, but I havent had any issues with this technique.
Forum: rodboard

Michael, I'm sure he means it separated as he was wrapping or tying off the wrap. It obviously can't move after being epoxied.
Forum: rodboard

On this note, not to hijack the thread, but when starting inlays or bands on a spinner (assuming same for fly) its best to start the inlay/band right at the bottom of the rod, as held while fishing. On bottom guided rods, this happens to be directly on the guide foot. Any suggestions on that? Made me think of it because I am doing metallic green trim. Hope it doesn't fade out!!
Forum: rodboard

I've read up on the KR. On Fuji's site, it says to use one of the traditional layouts to get initial NGC spacing. Then it says to move up the choker to the position of the previous reduction guide. Then adjust the remaining reduction guides to get a straight line path between the stripper and the (now closer) choke point. This is how I did it by using the 27X method first and then moving t
Forum: rodboard