Thanks for the tip Roger, but I don't know enough about how colors fade or darken with epoxy to make it work well. Plus the silicone on the Madeira necessitates CP from what I've read. I like the NCPs I have, but wanted to try something new.
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When I do the guide wraps I won't thin. I only thinned what I poured in a mixing cup, not the entire bottle. I only did because it looked like some of the solids were getting lumpy. So I seem to be getting a different take from different folks. Ken Preston...so by voids, do you mean that on an open wrap, you CP the blank as well? Others...so if I just put a super wet coat on and let it
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So I did my second wrap, an open wrap of white, blue, gray and silver with Madeira. And yes it's a Dallas Cowboys theme. I really liked the pattern, though I think next time I'll either go for a multiple thread wrap or a closed wrap. Or both if I'm feeling really aggressive. In any case, I put on three coats of U-40 CP. First two at full strength, the final diluted a touch with distiller
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Thanks fellas! Looking forward to getting it complete! I got the cross wrap sealed with CP and will epoxy...TBD Semper fi!
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Thanks Tom! Just realized you are the author of the book I have! Good stuff and got me started on this craft.
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Thanks guys! I think I'll go ahead and use it. The CP set nicely, though I do plan on getting the clear kind when I need more. I think it will be good. I did a Dallas Cowboys color cross wrap and I really like it. Want to get it finished up so its out of harm's way. It was my second one. Next I'm going to try a multiple thread wrap to get more intricate patterns and then move into closed w
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Cool I live in Temecula. I bought a wooden dowel today and did a quick wrap. I tested out my CP so I'll see how that dries in the morning. The CP was a little lumpy. I stirred it in a mixing cup and then shook up the bottle real good. I let it sit for a bit before using on the test wrap because the instructions said not to shake. I'll test the epoxy tomorrow. I've started keeping mine indoors a
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So through searching and emailing Mudhole, I have been able to find the answer to my epoxy going pretty yellow. I am not overly concerned with that due to my research. However, I haven't been able to get a clear answer on the consistency of the stuff. It is pretty fluid, whereas I seem to remember upon purchasing, that it was a bit thicker. If you gently shake it back and forth, it would be
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So if the builder had one of these first guides break, would he be able to repair the rod, or would it mess up the decoration?
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Hello all, I recently did a cross wrap with 6 diamonds. I was going to have the securing wrap become the under wrap for my first guide. This is my first double footed guide job. I ended up cutting the cross wrap to 5 diamonds and separating the cross wrap and guide wrap. I thought I might need to replace that guide one day. I didn't get the cheapest, but not the greatest guides either. So my
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why would one put CP on NCP (no color preserver) > thread in the first place? You don't mention the > other problems your having with other colors > fading, are you using NCP or regular nylon? I am in the process of figuring out if it's ok right now. I will tell you why. I have a roll of white an
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Like Chester said They will try things on a blank > Just give them say from the butt where you want it > to sit > Winding checks should be Not a tight fit get them > .5 larger and put a wrap of thread under It is > said you can get a failure if to tight on the > blank Yeah, will defini
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Going through my old posts and decided to update this one. I got it fitting pretty nicely when my son's friend invited him fishing. I offered up my rod, which he took. One of the adults he went with must've thrown a heavy tackle box in the back of the truck on the rod...it came back snapped in two (tip section). So I get to make another one now. I'll have two butts and one tip. I'm gonna go wi
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Yeah, thanks for the heads up on that. It looks like many of my options are limited due to the size. I Wish I could at least measure the rod for one of the colored winding checks. I'm making a college theme rod for my school. I'll call mud hole tomorrow and see if they can help with that. Thanks for the help guys!
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I think they are just loose parts. I'll be ordering the blank as well so I don't have it available to measure for winding checks and such. That's why I like the idea of the kits I posted about. I don't know about installing them and how they look installed though.
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Oh, here's the link to the handles:
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Oh, here's the link to the handles:
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Has anyone used these before? They look pretty nice, but on the very limited experience I have in this craft, I haven't pieced a handle together on a tube and glued the whole thing to the blank...Should I just stick to traditional methods or are these worth the price? The blank I'm planning on using is their CRB value E-glass 7' 15-25 lbs model. Any experience with those is welcome as well.
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Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and sanded down and it is going in further. Now I just gotta smooth out the transition to where it was taped off when I sanded. There's kind of a ridge there. The only other concern is there are two small spots where bare fiberglass is showing. May throw a bit of paint over this again just to protect.
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I have started to build a new fiberglass crappie rod of 6 feet. When I first recieved the blank, the bottom piece would slip into the top one about 2.5 to 3 inches (based on my recollection). After painting and clearcoating, it will go in about 1.25 inches or so. It feels sturdy, but this is my first experience with a multi-piece rod. Is 1.25 inches a good enough overlap to fish with for panf
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Well thanks for the advice. I think I'll keep it and just try to store it in optimal conditions. Problem now becomes I had to return the gun. The "used - like new" gun had paint dried on the inside. So I sent back to amazon and ordered a new one. On sale for only $10 more than used. Sweet deal!!! Everything seems to be coming together. Can't wait to get started. BTW it's gonna be a bla
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So I ended up just going to my local auto paint supply store and bought a quart of clear; a 2 part urethane system. Ifinished up painting the duplicolor on the rod (which seems to be a really tough paint as it is). Was ready to lightly sand the color and lay down a clear layer, when I decided to read the back label of the can. Both the paint and the activator say to use the entire container withi
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Just realized how that last post may have seemed like a contradiction...talking of how little time I have, but then all the things I plan on doing. LOL I am a dreamer, and a long term planner. It will take me likely years to get to all those projects I want to do! ha ha
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Oh yeah...I've seen that recommended on several other threads. The problem with that is that my goal is to get a good setup that I can use over and over without breaking the bank. The gun I can use for other tasks around the house and a quart of urethane will last me for more rods than I'll probably build in 10 years. The KK was like $80 for a pint though. And that's total mixed quantity. With t
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Well I did some searching and found some other branded 2k urethane systems on Google for around 35 dollars per qt (without reducer). Will a cheaper system provide good results? It seems that Klass Kote is a little on the pricier side. I didn't really look at other brands before because I didn't realize how big of a range there was on prices. I found the Klass Kote by searching 2k urethane for fis
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So I've been lurking for a while and have found many answers here. Can't find any info on this so I figured I'd make my first post. I painted the blank of my newest build (first paint job). I used duplicolor perfect match lacquer and it came out real nice. I want a good clear over it and was going to buy an LVLP spray gun. However, two part urethane is a bit out of my hopeful price range. Klass
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