roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Randy, > One of the reasons that I apply finish to a very > fast turning rod. > Easy to get the correct amount of finish on the > rod when the rod is spinning fast. > > Good luck Yeah, that's my favorite technique as well. I love it also for getting nice crisp edges. One of the bes
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Bill did the period key break on your keyboard or are you just fundamentally against using them? ...Anywho, I would guess that higher rpm would CAUSE a football. The faster it turns the more centrifugal force that is applied, no?
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Conner, I know this is three years old, but just wanted to say I've seen the same thing! I have rods that I can see "defects" under the lamp I use with my wrapper that simply cannot be found in normal lighting situations.
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Trying to picture in my mind what you are describing with no luck. Plus with 7 foot rods, could get a little tricky. The bike stand holds it horizontally. The only difficulty is I have to take a couple steps as I paint down the blank. This makes it a bit more difficult to get an even flow. On a separate note, I purchased my other two blanks today, so hopefully I can get them before next we
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I have a bicycle stand that clamps around the top tubes of a bike. I used it for painting the rods. Just taped up the handle and grip area and clamped it loosely so I could roatate it. For two piece rods I just use a tomato cage upside down.
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That's what I was thinking. Thanks! I'll save the other one for later.
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So I bought two cans of SprayMax for some rods. I have three at home that need clear. I also intend to make another for my widea, and paint the top half of a two pc. blank to replace one I crushed by mistake. The three at home are two 6 1/2' fresh and a 7' heavy salt rod. Should I go ahead and clear these three or just wait until I have the other rod and tip section and do all 4 1/2 blanks
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This was just meant as an FYI to help people, not a request for help. But thanks anyways.
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Yes I've seen it discussed several times, but never the ability to have it COLORED. That was the point of the post. As far as off gassing, I'm not a paint specialist, just going off what I've read. And I'm talking specifically urethane over lacquer. I know you can apply lacquer over lacquer at any time.
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So, we've all seen the multitude of threads about painting rods, but I thought I'd add this little tidbit to the mix. 2K urethane is the top choice for a clearcoat, being flexible and ultra durable. SprayMax is a user friendly approach to getting this finish, as it does not require a compressor, gun, mixing paint (at least in a separate bucket), etc. I have a shop near me that supplies paint
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's not silicone. As Chris mentioned above, it's > most like it's very small crystalized resin bits. > Unable to mix with the hardener, they never harden > on the rod, leaving small uncured bits of rubbery > resin in your finish. > > Set the resin bottle in a pan of very hot water > for
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Will the metal ones be "sufficiently hard" to handle braid? I built a rod with Minimas for my daughter. After losing a fish to lighter mono and feeling the properties of the blank, I decided it would be better for her to use braid. All she really does is throw out dough bait for catfish, and using heavier (but thinner) braid will help prevent break offs.
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Congrats and welcome to the addiction! I take it you bought one of the MHX multi-option kits? They didn't have those 3 years ago when I got into this hobby. They seem like a really good deal. In fact I may get one soon just to replace a rod that broke on a combo I bought a few years back, just to get the reel back in service. Anyways, I'd go with what Matthew said. I certainly think the g
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I've found on open wraps it's hardest to keep the outside wraps tight. My last wrap i added a few extra threads to the outside of the wrap in an easy to distinguish color. Once I got every thing packed in, I put CP on the wrap. Once the CP dried, I pulled up the outer "sacrificial" threads that were my aid to keeping things packed. Worked like a charm, but a little extra effort. I'
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Cool, what kind of clear did you use?
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Not looking for advice...just sharing.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Highest rated by who? > > ............ Maybe I should rephrase...most frequently recommended. In all my searches, I consistently see people recommending Krylon Fusion, which Mudhole sells (or did) as "Custom Rod Building Blank Paint." In this video, dude man is holding a can of fusion s
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Was on their site yesterday, looking at their Q&A. Saw this, directly from one of their customer servicemen: Hello, This product is not meant to be used on flexible substrates. We recommend it be used on hard rigid surfaces only. If the surface is too flexible, it could crack, chip, or peel. Regards, KrylonCS - See more at: Interesting, as this is one of the two highest rated p
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Good to know. I have some silver leaf paint I got from Michaels. I may lay that down under the underwraps. I could even do this over the white to maintain consistency.
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Thanks for all the comments...I'm trying to imagine in my head how this would look. I may steal some pictures off here or google and edit them in Photoshop to make the lower half of the blank white to get an idea of what it would look like!
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Yeah I suppose that's a valid COA. I'd just have to plan out my underwraps before hand.
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Thanks Roger! I sure wish I could find a picture of one! I searched Rod Geeks, because I know they have two tone blanks, but all I could find was pics of blanks, not finished rods.
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Yeah, that's kinda what I was planning, but I'd still have 4 or 5 guides left over the black part of the blank. Or do you think the difference would be negligible? Of course this is assuming I transition at the second guide. I'm not sure what the spacing will look like yet. I could always paint the whole blank, or not at all...just thought this may give a unique look. Edit...I think you
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So I'm in Florida right now, and when I go back to Cali on Friday, I'll have a brand spankin' new Seeker blank to turn into a spinning rod! I was thinking about painting it up to either the first or second guide in white. I would have the transition under the guide's underwrap. THIS IS NOT A REQUEST FOR INFORMATION ON PAINTING BLANKS!!! I have that part down. Just wondering what your thought
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Yeah. I wish I was able to join some of the expos and gatherings. But location is prohibitive. I'll just keep playing and maybe figure some stuff out. I think I'm gonna get some bobbins and see how that helps. Plus I'm gonna finally get my RB sub.
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I don't think people are reading through the whole thread. Mudhole and flexcoat don't teach intricate decorative guide wraps. They teach the basics of rod building. I have that part down pat, as well as basic inlays and trim. I have made some pretty aesthetically pleasing guide wraps; I just want to have the skill set to increase their complexity. This is why I said I want to step up my ga
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Thanks, Tom! Totally forgot about the magazine. I was supposed to fix my credit card from when my wife tried to get me the sub, but never got around to it. Ill try to remember to do that when I get paid next week. I'd like to get Billy's book, but man its a lot. I have another book on butt wraps I got on MudHole I think. Not sure if I'm allowed to post his name or not. But it doesn't rea
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Roger you just made my night. I first read about preparation of the blank/seat shortly after assembling the handle for a new rod I was building. It was a heavier rod, and used a metal reel seat. I became super worried about the bond breaking. I felt a little better after reading a comment from Tom, indicating it was likely the rod manufacturers never do this prep-work either. But it see,ed l
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Gents, I'd like to step up my game, but I can't figure out how to do some of the wraps I've seen. I've been practicing this week to mimic some of the things I like, but to no avail. Now I'm not looking for a tutorial from you, but where did you learn these techniques? Are there good books or videos? I can do basic inlays and bands, but would like to try a bit more. I'm not looking for super
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Thanks Roger, I was talking specifically for butt wraps or guide underwraps. I will continue to use nylon to go over the guide foot. I saw a mint metallic that I liked a lot. Kinda like the color used on the factory Calstar rods use, but a lighter metallic version. Thought it would make a nice underwrap.
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