Thanks Don, it's always nice to have that peace of mind. I'm pretty excited about this build.
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Supposedly releases some of the silicone into the finish, so that when applied over the wrap, it doesnt cause fisheyes. It gets it "accustomed to" the thread coating. Some swear by it, others argue that it's hype. I've never tried it.
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Thanks. I have always used cp with Madeira, and thus far have been lucky enough to avoid a fisheye mishap. Cool deal, I'm gonna pick some up when I go back to pick up the item I bought for the yak. The had a tealish metallic that looked like it would be an awesome underwrap.
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While at the kayak shop the other day, saw it was next door to a sewing shop. I went in and browsed. They didn't have Madeira, but had what looked to be other high quality polyester threads. Is there something magical about Madeira? Or did I stumble into a new thread supply?
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And you'd be right. Called Mudhole and talked to one of their saltwater guys who picked up the two blanks. He said the 665 was much faster, with a much softer tip. He said if ongoing strictly for live baiting yellowtail, it would be the better option. But I ended up going with the 865H because he said it would still be good for that, but will allow the rod to be used for a couple other types o
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I've decided to bite the bullet and just buy every guide in the train down to 8 except the 30L. That way I can have them available to me to place the guides with a straight edge. If, depending on return shipping cost, it's worth returning the unused ones, I will just send them back for refund. If anyone is interested, I can report back with the train I use.
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I've decided to bite the bullet and just buy every guide in the train down to 8 except the 30L. That way I can have them available to me to place the guides with a straight edge. If, depending on return shipping cost, it's worth returning the unused ones, I will just send them back for refund. If anyone is interested, I can report back with the train I use.
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Oh and btw, I applaud your friend for using a spinning reel. So many of these west coast guys are fundamentally against those. A big reason I'm building the rod I am planning is to try to catch a big yellowtail on a party boat with my spinning reel so I can rub it in the deckhands' face. I know, I know, I'm a classy dude.
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Like I said, I haven't used that particular blank, but I have used one in the same line up, and thoroughly enjoy it. I think you'll have no regrets.
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Yeah, but I'd likely be paying another $20 for shipping depending on the oversize fee. Plus that would put me under the $149 free shipping threshold for the rest of the components at Mudhole. I'd rather just buy a Seeker or MHX...*shameless plug for my thread I started last night*
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Reading your initial post, I didn't get the idea that you were looking for a guide spacing suggestion. I built myself a 7 foot 30-60 conventional on this line of blanks. They are fantastic. I also have a 7' 9" 20-40 conventional I built on the RCLB line (for casting out irons like your friend). Also a great blank. The RCLB has a faster tip. I'd be building my latest on a Rainshadow
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You won't wear through the underwear unless the > guide is moving around, which it shouldn't be > doing. A is fine for the underwrap. > > ............. If you wear through your underwear, you probably got a little too close to the mouth of one of those sharks you're fishing for! Ha ha ha ha!
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Oh and disclaimer, I did call mudhole so as to not bother you guys, but the dude straight up told me he didn't know anything about the Seekers. In his words, he would just be giving me the specks, which I can get from the site.
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MHX GFC84MH Seeker S865H Seeker S665 I have no idea what the difference is between the two seekers. Do you guys prefer one brand over the other and why? If I got the MHX, I'd probably trim 3" off. Intended use is with a baitrunner spinning reel, 30-40 lb line, free lining a live bait fish. Target species, yellowtail amberjack. Goes along with my previous post about guides. Th
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Norm I'll have to measure and get back to you. Jim I only included the ones whose spacing made the most sense. The software provided placement for them all, but including the others would be too crowded.
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Michael, will do. I just remeasured the reel and got a little bit more reasonable findings. The instructions on Fuji's website are a little less adequate than what I just used. They recommend laying the reel over on its side and aligning the foot on a straight line drawn on paper. Well this is more difficult than it sounds, plus doesn't account for the fact that as you rotate it down you're
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OK then...back to the drawing board
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Hopefully this works. The red lines are inches from the reel face. I used Photoshop because it has rulers you can view in the side and top, which I used to measure the guide height on the drawing. So I was able to take my measurements and the guide heights listed for the KWs to double check the GPS software. The only one it didn't match up on was the 8. But I'd have to move that further
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Norm that's an excellent idea. I have a ton of guides and just because they aren't the same, I didn't think to use them. I was actually considering cutting something like pieces of a dowel rod to the height of the guides. But if I can find guides that match height of the KWs, that would be ideal.
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Bert you dont live in SoCal do you? Ha ha!
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Thanks Bert I guess I wasn't completely clear. I understand what their software provides. I chose the guides in my first post based on spacing. If you notice in the layout, I didn't list the 16 or 10. They were given on the GPS software but didn't make sense on the spacing. I actually have that CD, and uploaded it to my iPad kindle app. I am fully confident in my ability to place guides.
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Still looking at blanks. In fact I'm about to call mudhole right now. I'd like a 6'6", but depending on the model I choose, I may have to go with a 7 footer. If I go with a 7 footer, I'll feel out the blank when I get it in. If the action is fast enough, I'll probably cut 3 inches off the butt.
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Thanks again...I'm laying here in bed with google trying to relearn trigonometry to verify the GPS layout! I sure wish I lived by mudhole and could just swing by and dry fit at the store!
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Chris, very already seen that video, and didn't help much. I have an Alps wrapper so it's backwards for me. I tried last night and a couple times today with no luck. I think it also helps that his wrapper can tension spools individually rather than just the thread coming off the carriage.
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Thanks Norm. I'm perfectly fine using the NGC layouts. When it comes to less expensive guides I usually just buy one of each from the stripper size down to the choker. The ones I don't use only set me back a few bucks. And I can use on a future rod. The problem here, is this is my first really large spinning rod build, and I don't know what to expect of the layout. I've done enough smaller
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I just plugged my reel measurements into the GPS on Fuji's website to get spacing for the KW. It came out unexpectedly. They are (in distance from each previous guide): Reel at 0 inches 30 @ 17.3 25 @10.6 20 @7.55 12 @ 6.7 8 @ 5.3 So I've never done a concept layout on a heavy rod like this before, but I have done them on bass and crappie rods. I have never needed 5 reduction gu
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So I'll post this here, but I don't know if anyone will still be checking. If I don't get a response I'll start a new thread. I just plugged my reel measurements into the GPS on Fuji's website to get spacing for the KW. It came out unexpectedly. They are (in distance from each previous guide): Reel at 0 inches 30 @ 17.3 25 @10.6 20 @7.55 12 @ 6.7 8 @ 5.3 So I've never done a concep
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Sorry!
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I agree, at the very least it's not gonna hurt anything, even if you never use it. And they only cost around a dollar.
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Hi I'm looking for some info on how to do this. I searched on here and on google with no luck. There's got to be a tutorial out there somewhere. Specifically I'd like to switch back and forth between two colors without cutting either thread if able. I have the Alps wrapper with no modifications. This is a link to google images of the technique I'd like to learn; the part between the purp
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