From my understanding of urethane finishes, they are solvent and chemical resistant. Which is why auto clear coat is urethane; it won't soften if gasoline is spilled on it. My guess is that if this is the case, the first coat hadn't cured yet. I'm not a chemist though...just working off what I've read.
Forum: rodboard

Hello, quick question. When using taper offset spacing, do you taper boxes or just centers? I.e. one of the rods I'm working on has an average of 32mm between centers. The spacing will be tapered per the lined paper method from 27.75 mm at the butt to 35.75 mm at the tip. Now, each center will have a box wrapped around it. Lets say the middle one will have a 4mm box for the pattern. Do I ke
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Tom, if you're still following this, I tried using a layout close to what you suggested. Locating the choke guide at the tip top put the stripper at like 30 inches, so I brought the choke guide back in a bit (though not near as much as my first layout). It resulted in one fewer guide with the line decently following the blank on static test. Not quite as well as my first layout, but the guides
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Thanks Tom, I'll definitely look into this. I'll record the layout I got now for reference in case it works better. This is the results of static testing (image link below). The guides near the tip are rather close together. From the tip, they are 4.5, 4, 4 and 4.75. I had them a bit further apart withe a previous layout; the fourth guide from the tip (in the photo) was the third. When st
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OK. I'll look at a couple different layouts, including the one suggesting using the tip as the choker (which sounds like cone of flight to me!?!?).
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds roughly correct to me. Might move the > stripper in a couple inches. Might shorten the > reduction train a couple of inches. In? I posted this topic because I was wondering if it was already too close.
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That's an interesting idea; never would have thought of that! I have your CD with collection of articles on guide placement and never saw that mentioned. I'll have to try this tonight. Good thing I bought one of every size!
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I know, I know...another one of these. But here goes anyways! I am building on this rod with these guides . I have a 12 inch rear grip with about another inch or so for the gimbal. The reel is a Shimano Baitrunner 6000OC. When using the table top method or the 27x method, the choker goes out past the tip of the rod! So I adjusted the angle on the table top method. It's a bit sharper o
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I hadn't until it was suggested on here. I will next time I need to cut a blank tho. If you're talking about the one I already cut, the damage was on the inside of the blank. I was just worried about the fibers pulling away further toward the tip and compromising the structure. It appears this is unlikely, though,
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Where does that tool come from?
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I broke one of their panfish two-piecers. There was a $15 handling/shipping fee for the replacement. Blank was 15 bucks at mud hole. So as Tom said, I now have two butts for the rod. One cork and one EVA. This actually happened twice now. I let my son borrow it and one of his friends' relatives broke it. I think a tackle box was thrown on it in the back of the truck. When I got the new
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Ha ha thanks...wasn't trying to turn this into rocket surgery...or a debate on putting in the tip top vs. on the blank. The stuff just seems to gum up and just doesn't want to peel away, as Billy would suggest. It's not a huge deal, just seeing if anyone had a "secret." Something like Dennis' trick :D
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Ha ha thanks...wasn't trying to turn this into rocket surgery...or a debate on putting in the tip top vs. on the blank. The stuff just seems to gum up and just doesn't want to peel away, as Billy would suggest. It's not a huge deal, just seeing if anyone had a "secret."
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All right, that's what I figured. It just gums up and can be a pain trying to pick it off with a fingernail or tool. Oh well...it's only once per rod at least!
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I tried a search, but for whatever reason, I can't get it to work. If you can see what I'm doing wrong please let me know. I'm sure the words "tip top" have shown up on this page at some point in time! One thing that I can do, but is a huge pain in the rear is cleaning the adhesive from the tip top. The tops are left open I'm assuming so an air pocket does not form. This also a
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Roget thanks for the input, will definitely take safety precautions from here on out!
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Wow...never thought of this. Didn't figure it would be all that dangerous. Our bodies filter out dust as we breath, and carbon is an element that defines life anyways. Never guessed it would be any sort of toxic. But, I'm not a biologist!!
Forum: rodboard

Sweet! That arrow one was pricey! Well guess its time to move one to the build. Going to do a cross wrap from the rear grip up. Should work out well with the threaded fore grip/seat hood I have for it.
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That's a pretty cool gadget. Never knew tiny saws like that existed!
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Mark thanks for the comfort inspiring words and advice! Tom, great idea, will definitely consider in the future. Hopefully won't have to cut too often!
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Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking. But the splinters are inside the blank. So covering with the grip really isn't helping (at least in my head). That's why I put epoxy on the inside of the blank before affixing the butt cap. I thought spinning while cutting would achieve a straighter cut. I have a document that I keep adding to of "lessons learned" in rodbuilding. At least I
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I cut an inch and a half off a graphite rod. I tried spinning the blank on the lathe while running a rotary tool cutoff wheel. It was clean until it was cut all the way through. The last connected bit separated some of the fibers on the inside of the blank because of the spinning. Not many, and only on one side. Obviously couldn't assess how far in this went because it's a pretty narrow blan
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Thanks Norm. I'm not trying to get it perfect, but it at least needs to be to where I can get a good fit on the next one. It's pretty thick at the top where the gap was from the first grip. I guess I can just send that down a bit more level and got from there. Also will try the perpendicular blade. I've been using a plastic spoon where I sanded the handle to an edge on the belt sander. Th
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This is a follow-up to my last thread. I just sliced off the grip. It peeled clean off on the top 4 inches just like Ron said. So I'm glad I did it. The rest was on solid as a rock. Now I have a mess to get rid of so I can put a new grip on. There's gotta be a trick to this. Its freakin rock solid. If I go light on sanding, its gonna take hours and days of work. If I go heavy, I'd hate
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*edited* This question was answered above.
Forum: rodboard

Roger, and everyone, thanks for the tips. I have been doing this for a while, but still dont have enough builds under my belt to be an expert, I learn something new (too often from mistakes that worry me) on every build I do. This is EVA. Didn't consider the train of thought above by Ron. I just assumed that if it stopped short in the dry fit, it would be nice and snug once I lubed it with e
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Rain. Shadow.
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A little nervous about this. I don't even think I reamed this grip in question, it was an extra I had and it seemed to fit just right. It slid down to about 6 inches above its final resting place and wouldn't go further without a good amount of force. I applied the epoxy to get it going the rest of the way, and when I had it all glued up, I noticed there was about a 1/16-1/32 inch gap on the
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I like to fit the real seat to what's comfortable in my hand within reason. Obviously don't use a size 24 on an UL spinning reel. But for example, I prefer a 17 to a 16, so I'm using that on my crappie rod, even though it's a smaller reel. I don't know if that's what you were looking for.
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Ha ha! I sent you an email on an unrelated topic...when you get a chance.
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