So I used a NGC layout on a rod I'm worki on and got a decent layout. So I moved on to static test. I found a couple bends in line sharper than I'd like, but in order to get them smooth, I'd have to really crowd the guides. I'm using KW guides, and have every size to work with. 30/25/20/12 with 8 runners seemed to work best. The blank is an RCLB70M. I guess what I'm wondering is "how
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Thanks, Steve! I actually haven't. I'm not in a big rush because I'm still waiting on the guy to get me his reel for guide placement. I could probably even go a shade darker based on your picture. Thanks for the help!
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Grant Darby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why don't you just use the largest ID EVA you can > find and install l it using the rubber cement > method? Why anyone would ream EVA is beyond me. > You simply don't have to. Once I had it down to within 12 inches of where it needed to be, I used rubber cement. Worked like a charm, and I don't have
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With EVA, it also has a great deal to do with > where you hold the grip while reaming. The area in > your hand will ream faster/greater due to pressure > there, while unsupported areas tend to move away > from the cutting surface of your reamer. With > either cork or EVA, I highly recommend you u
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > best way to ream is to start with the right size > foam and to not ream. COmmon sense, isn't aslways > so common. Billy always to the rescue with condescending advice. I emailed you to see if you had the billy blocks I wanted (this was a while back). Your reply was they aren't in stock and you don't
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Donald, I turn it constantly in my hand. I am reaming EVA, and it's to clear dust every 20 seconds or so. I'm running a cheap battery drill at full speed, which isn't very fast. I don't have an exact number. I am hand holdin, which is my best guess as to why this is happening. I guess another thing to mention is that (at least in this case) the reamer is well under the thickness of the blank
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Agree with Don; graphite is a carbon material. What people think of as carbon fiber is usually how it is woven together in its signature checkerboard pattern.
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Would steer away from going no cp. I've heard bad things about the way it treats finish. And I've used permagloss on it and found the results substandard. I have wrapped guides on a rod for my daughter and got good results with using cp though.
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That looks awesom! Can you explain the process, and/or where you find the separate pieces of seats to make this? I've been interested in this a while now, but don't know the process.
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Ok I've built enough rods that I no longer consider me a beginner. Maybe a novice (are those synonyms?). Anyways, on every build I've done, one thing continually frustrates me. When I try to ream out a grip, the ends get sized before the middle. Then I get left trying to ream out the middle without letting the reamer touch the ends of the grip. This works, but is super tedious and frustratin
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Thanks Grant and Roger! I don't have any NCP grey; I will be using embroidery thread. I've used it in the past with great results. I'll check out those photos! I have several shades of grey, just don't know how dark I can get before losing the effect.
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So I'm building a rod for a buddy before he goes off to Italy (Navy). He wants a smokey theme to match an all black Penn reel. Any thoughts on how dark I can go with a grey and black and still get the effect? I was also thinking of maybe a metallic black underneath and a solid black on top. Any suggestions are welcome. If you've done any dark tigers, please chime in! Kinda glad he went wi
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I will epoxy the cross wrap prior to wrapping the guide. I find it easier and I've done it in the past. I don't see any down side. I won't likely be casting this rod, and am not concerned with the extra miligrams of weight. It will be used for trolling bait behind a kayak or letting live bait swim freely on a baitrunner reel. I do this for normal underwraps as well. Its just so much easier
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Thanks Phil. I just thought of something. Can I test it out by just wrapping and soaking it with water? Or would that not be a true test?
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I recently finished a butt wrap. As the cross points are raised above the rest of the wrap, waves occurs in the epoxy, which I sanded down. I used a coarse paper at first to knock down high spots. But then I went to finer grade before applying the final coat of finish. The result of tpsandjng finer was potentially what you are looking for. It actually looked pretty cool, although I prefer gl
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Richard Bowers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One of the coolest effects I have seen is a white > metallic Pro Wrap thread, whose base white thread > disappears and only the sparkly prismatic colors > from the Mylar over-wrap are visible. Really adds > another dimension to the wrap!! I have actually done the exact same thing with the same
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I guess I wasn't very clear. 1. I was mainly wondering if the strength of silk was adequate for a butt guide on a heavy rod. 2. The blank will never show through, because this would go over a closed cross wrap.
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I considered using white with no CP, but I read that the only way to get a true transparency is with undyed natural silk.
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I'm assuming a couple coats of CP???
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Hi, just wondering what the possibilities are on a using a transparent wrap on a saltwater rod rated 30 to 50 lbs. I'm not sure the strength of silk to nylon. If I recall correctly, the tensile strength of silk is very high. I'd like to (maybe) use it on a butt guide that will have a cross wrap as an underwrap, so the only thing hidden on the butt wrap will be the guide feet on the bottom of t
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Thanks Roger, seems like a cheap fix!
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Seems to turn fine when I remove the drive belt. And when I use the foot pedal. Its only when I have the drier on. Its finicky. Sometimes it works fine and sometimes it acts as described.
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Hey all, the drier on my Alps rod wrapper has taken to getting stuck and bouncing back and forth between clockwise and counter clockwise. It would do that on occasion when I first turned it on, but I'd give a little nudge and it would be on its way. Today I had a rod drying, and when I went back to check on it, it was stuck. Fortunately, the heat seems to have helped it cure quickly, and I did
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I tried the alcohol approach with rubbing vice DNA. No luck. So I just went ahead and CPed. Oh well. It's for me, and I'm sure the fish won't care (as my wife always tells me) LOL!
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Nope. I noticed it when I was packing the threads. I washed my hands each time before I started work on the wrap. My wife suggested dabbing with carpet cleaner on a q-tip.
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Just finished up a deco wrap, and a couple of the early threads somehow got a small spot of dirt on them. It's not worth redoing, but if there is a good way to clean it off before applying CP, I'm all ears (eyes?).
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Makes my life easier, I'll give it a go without!
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So that's two votes AGAINST taper offset...is there any votes for?
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I'll probably do something like the St John's cross (#36 in Mr. Clemmen's book). It has a cross with an outer and inner adjacent boxes.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A big question......why a second coat? It only > adds weight, if the first is OK. I can't imagine a thin coat of PG is going to add enough weight to affect anything. I've painted an UL and cleared with automotive 2k urethane with no ill effects. I even used 3 coats so I could wet sand and polish. When
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