Yeah the tie off was a different issue. I used pearl white metallic thread as an overwrap of the solid blue tie off. I've used metallics without cp with good results in the past. Was expecting the same results. It actually looks really good from the top though, because the nylon inside the metallic thread went translucent. It just gave a shimmery look to the blue underneath. Not sure if I h
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Here you can see where I ran into issues. The first one was decently tight. After that not so much.
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Here you can see what happened after finishing.
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Not to hijack the thread (permanently) but what's the best way to get a nice even line by the eye side of the guide? Assume you do this with the rod stopped? See a lot about turning speed etc, but not so much about cleaning up under the ring.
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Yeah I try to keep it at a good angle as well. I don't have a power wrapper so the blank can slide around a bit. After Wed maybe I'll be able to afford a power wrapper! I have an ultralight section that broke, just dug it out of the trash to make the little jig you showed me!
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It seems to me that the use of CP could degrade the effect of the metallic. This is based strictly off an observation of a wrap on a recent rod I did. I did a butt wrap tie off in light blue. I did an over wrap of the blue with a pearl white metallic from prowrap and purple inlays. The thread was opaque when wrapped and turned translucent when epoxied. It then looked like a light blue shimme
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Roger--Thanks for the clarification. Chris--the gaps are mostly in the guides toward the tip, along the length of the foot. The worst is near the eye of the guide. If I can get a pic up tomorrow, I will post a link.
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Tom, he may have been referencing this from the magazine in the library section. "Some builders actually apply their epoxy finish, then allow the rod to stand just a bit until the finish begins to sag heavily on the bottom. At that point, they simply remove the sags and droops with a brush, spatula or old credit card, and then set the rod to spinning. Usually this will result in a perfect
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Roger, thanks. I completely missed the photo! Do you screw the screw into the blank for each guide? Seems like eventually the blank would strip out.
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I knocked down the edges of a micro guide, which seemed to be the worst, with a Dremel and test wrapped it onto my blank near the tip. Seems to have gone on much smoother. Will definitely do that from now on. I do have a belt sander but it is a 6" belt. I imagine this could work just as well. Do you just hold the guide with pliers on the smaller ones? These are size 6 micro Minimas.
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I will try that (both responses). I have an identical rod in deep green (hers was purple) that I will be building for myself. Going to use brown thread with a gold trim, which looks fantastic on the test wrap I did just around the blank. If I can keep the gaps out, it will be a really nice looking rod.
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How many hours/days would you say you spend per rod? Do they all include butt wraps?
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Good morning gents! I just finished wrapping a rod for my daughter. I used Madeira thread for the guides, and I had a lot of issues with gaps. I don't know if it's the thread or the guides or what. On some I could wrap a few and pack to tighten it up. But as I got toward the tip, even if I packed every few revolutions, it would just spring back to open gaps. Is there something you do diffe
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Thanks John, I went ahead and did the same. I only had very small openings, and it would have been very difficult trying to miss all those while ensuring I had sufficient coverage. I put a soaking coat on and wicked away the excess once it had soaked through. Seemes to have worked wonderfully. Helped keep everything together too while tying off. Man I hate that part! So nerve racking! I
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Nick if you're still following this, I talked to the guys at Batson, and they recommended the RCLB79ML as a jack of all, master of none. We'll see how it works out. If nothing else I can use it as a live bait/surface iron chunker (depending on how the reel casts). And there's always more rods to build if I need a more moderate action...It has the glass tip like you were talking about so I'll g
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I have used Duplicolor Perfect match on some blanks. They have a ton of colors...pretty much if it's on a car, they have it. The method I've used with good results is to use Duplicolor adhesion promoter, followed by as many coats as necessary to cover the blank. On a white blank, this should be relatively few. Black blanks are a bit more difficult to cover. For clear I use an automotive 2
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Hello all. This is my first wrap covering this much blank. I've only done a few diamonds/chevrons before this which had clear "stripes" to follow when applying CP to ensure coverage. Not so much here. There are only small patches of blank showing through and I was wondering if I can just CP the whole thing or do I have to be careful not to get it on the blank? The tan threads are
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Bill do you mask off the area to be applied to? I just finished a cross wrap for my daughter's Christmas rod...a little late I know. Gonna tie it off and the decal is going next to it. Want this thing to stick right since it's going so close to my hours of work.
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Ha ha! At least it's a rewarding one! The only part that gets really tedious for me is the cross wraps, but the payoff there is pretty nice! I can do inlays pretty well. I'm attempting my first multi thread wrap on a bass rod for my daughter right now...late Christmas gift. Well if I really decide I need a faster ratio, I was just doing some reading on upgrading to a 5:1 gear kit on this ro
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Hey Nick, thank you for the most informative answer so far! The 112 I have is the 112H which is supposed to be a higher retrieve than the standard Senator. Don't know if it's high enough still... I will have to look at the ratios recommended for this and compare. Maybe I'll stick with surface irons and build another for yo-yos...damn this hobby! Just keeps begging for more. Definitely g
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Thanks for the clarification, hope you had a great Christmas!
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I undid the wrap, started redoing two at a time for a 6 thread diamond and put a couple gray sacrificials on all sides of the wrap. Packing way better. Still very tedious though. When done going to put down some cp and repack prior to pulling sacrificials.
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Sorry I was a little lost. You said "turn the first two butt guides up to 0", so I was assuming a transition at the third guide. Some periods would make your posts a little easier to read, ha ha.
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Yeah...it's amazing how big some of this tackle gets. I've seen a video of a chick pulling in a bull red on a Barbie rod...so I imagine I can make this work. May not be the best setup, but I think it's a good start in that direction. This will be my first ever conventional. I plan on calling Batson after Christmas to get some advice on blank selection. Looks like they have some good option
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Robert I got the same impression you did, but I think it was in relation to yellowing of the finish vice thread translucency. The thread in question here is NOCP so it should stay opaque. I still have doubts as to the strength of auto clear coat as a thread finish.
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Wait I can use auto paint for wraps? I have some that I use on occasion to clear a blank I've painted. Wouldn't guess it'd be as strong as epoxy.
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How bad would it be to use a size d for the diamond center and then switch to size a for the rest of the pattern? I have a spool of the metallic white in size d as well. Would require fewer threads and potentially cause fewer problems. But don't know how the resulting look would match up after finish.
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Need some suggestions. I was looking to build a kind of dual purpose rod for vertical jigging irons with the ability to drop some squid or a sardine to the bottom. I was thinking of an RCLB70M, but the guy I spoke to at GetBit said the XF action wouldn't do well for jigging. He suggested the RCJB78MH or RCJB84H, but suggested they may be under powered for pulling something big off the bottom.
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So Bill, you are suggesting making the transition between the 2nd and 3rd guide rather than 1st and 2nd?
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Thanks for all the tips! The tip of this blank is 7.5, and they don't make a 10 ring in that size. Have to step up to an 8.0 tube size. Can I just run some thread around the tip to build up enough for the larger tube size? And how do you static load test a 0-60-120-180? The simple spiral seems pretty easy...just static load a plain conventional setup, and then flip all but the stripper t
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