Problem solved. Lynn
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Phil, with all due respect, the casting aspect of fishing has nothing to do with this particular balance issue. This is really about the the way the rod sits in your hand as the lure is worked back to the angler after the cast. Lynn
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O.K. Roger you busted me! I'll split the difference with you.Take 1/2 of the sinker weight off, and it'll still be better than tip heavy.
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What David said!!! Put the components in place on the blank, install the reel, thread the line thru the guides and tie a sinker on the line similar in weight to what will be fished. Let the sinker dangle in midair and the rod should sit in your hand without the tip trying to drop to the floor. It should not want to rise either. Neutral balance. If you can stand a slightly longer butt section
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Don't forget the straw.
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Joe check out this post, from 1/9: Epoxy, poor coverage around guide foot
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John's method of blowing through a straw works with other finishes also.
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I'm building a casting rod as a graduation gift for a friend's son: Rx-7 ISB842, Airwave casting set, Pac Bay HLS hook keeper, Alps tip, 1 spool of Pro Wrap neon, all from Schneider's during one of their shipping specials. Cost shipped:$74.17. Pac Bay exposed blank reelseat from Get Bit $2.00. I get pre shaped cork from Utmost and cut/shape it as required. I make my own winding checks so they're
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And my wife has the nerve to ask, "why would you save an old innertube?"
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Bill, I just searched for my moms old singer portable sewing machine, and I suspect my niece might have beaten me to it. (Many years since mom passed). Roger thank you for all the info. I should have stated in my post I would have preferred a variable speed foot pedal. Progress has been made. Jordan, thanks for starting this thread, it sure took off! Lynn
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Thanks Chris, Bill.
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Roger, I,m using a 2 speed, 12v rechargeable drill, (batteries long since dead) hooked to a power supply that runs on 110v and outputs 12v dc. could I plug this into a foot pedal of some sort so I could use it for long wraps such as tiger bottom layers. I normally wrap by hand, but these take forever! Thanks, Lynn
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I use a discarded 35mm film container with a hole drilled thru the bottom and a bolt inserted thru the hole from the inside. A nut and lockwasher hold the canister to the bolt, the bolt is then chucked in the drill. The rod butt fits into the canister as a press fit. Some shimming may be needed. Roger is right. You can't power wrap without some type of foot control. This is beyond my scope of ele
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Diawa make a very nice dropshot rod that is priced at $529.00. I just made such a rod for myself that specs out the same as the Diawa, although mine weighs 1/10 oz. more. My cost was $75.00 + labor. You be the judge. (correction, should read 1/10 oz. less)
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Tom is correct on all counts.
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If you're going to be building rods with a bunch of kids, I'd advise you to build one on your own first. That will give you an idea how long it will take. If you're planning to do the first one in one morning, pack a lunch.
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I'm with Roger.
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I've had good results recently using 30lb. Stren braid as my sacrifical, gives a wider gap while only having to wrap two threads on top.
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There's a post dealing with this called Old Hypalon Grips from Nov. 20
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I've come to do all my dry fitting and pre- final assembly work on a short piece of golf club shaft that matches the taper of the blank I'm using. (a piece of old blank also works) Keeps the blank from gettting marred during the process, and its alot more convenient to slide the parts on and off. I do my dirty work in our attached garage and wrapping-finishing in the house. And there's alot of
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If you're using the let it sag, wick it off method, give it a good coat, let it sag 1min., wick it off, turn it 180, let it sag 1min., wick it off, and so on for about 10-12 cycles, put it on the dryer. You wont have to wick it off more than 3 or 4 times. After its on the dryer blow on the coated areas through a soda straw to release bubbles. If this doesn't work you're using the wrong finish. L
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If someone asked for blank reccomendations all sorts of suppliers and or manufacturers would be chiming in! No one ever seems to want to touch this topic, and this is not the 1st time it's come up. I would love to use Minima 3's at times. Has the issue been addressed or not? Its quite possible the manufacturer doesn't visit the various building forums, though they should.
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Thanks Norm, I'm a died in the wool Fuji man, but have been branching out in recent years due to info available on great forums such as this. Gotta try different stuff now and then to learn anything. Lynn
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I had some BF3XG fly guides in 2014 that had very sharp edges on the tip side. They were black frame/silver ring and looked great. Just couldn't abide those sharp areas. I use a lot of PacBay stuff, but I didn't use them. Haven't seen any since though. I sent one to Bill Boettcher to check out and he agreed. I've since switched to Minima 4s. But would prefer the 3s for the color choices. If anyon
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Tom, Michael, and Gary get my vote on this one! Soldering iron sounds like a recipe for disaster.
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Norman, If you start with a 16 do you still follow it with a 10 and a 6? Thanks, Lynn
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Robert, there is a post 5 below this one that may also be of interest to you.
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Thanks Don, I should have said " MicroWave casting AirWave set". Sorry for any confusion. Lynn
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FYI the inst. sheet that comes with the MicroWave casting guide set states "this set contains 1 stripper guide, 1 transition guide, and 7 running guides. A photo of such a set is also shown. What the set actually contains is 1 stripper guide and 8 runners. This is no problem, but don't be searching around for that transition guide that doesn't exist. Original sets may have had this guide (h
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Tom, how long do you intend to make the oversleeve it self? For future reference. Lynn
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