Aton, you will find the forum's search function to be quite helpful. Just be sure to set it for all dates (which should really be the default setting anyway) before starting your search. There's nothing wrong with asking questions, that's what the forum is here for, but you can save yourself some time that way. Sometimes you might have to rephrase your topic a few different ways to get what you'r
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I think the industrial grade Sharpie is ok on stainless. The permanent Sharpie is said to degrade stainless.
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I'd like to thank Nick Lam for his above post. I'm rewrapping 3 Rick Clunn sig. series rods from Bass Pro that are on beautiful translucent blue blanks and I was able to remove the old wrap finish completely with this method. I was able to skip the heat and it worked perfectly. I was just removing the finish that remained after I had the guides off. One of those golden moments when you read a po
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I must admit that when someone mentions weightless Senkos to me all that initially comes to mind is the wacky rig. I forget Texas rigging them with no weight has become so popular. When they are so rigged I think they could be fished on the same rod used for lighter T-rigs or jigs up to 3/8oz or so. Or enough rod to get the hook through the worm and into the fish, which is not an issue when they
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I believe the rod's intended for fishing 5" weightless Senkos.
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If you're putting finish on it, why would you even consider not wrapping it first?
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I feel the same way Norman, I was the lab rat for the last brand I bought. Lynn
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Bill, that Klass Kote looks interesting, I will check it out thanks, Lynn
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When I'm on a rodbuilding forum sponsored by rod finish providers, I expect the conversation to discuss products marketed to rod builders as wrap finish. I realize there are other products out there that may work as well or even better however, the original post regards rod finish. Not car paint. We've danced around this topic long enough. If it starts out yellow its only gonna get yellower! Is t
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Mark, You might want to invest in the Rodmaker guides CD. I found it to be helpful, and I'm cheap! Lynn
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Mel, you made me curious so I removed both remaining finishes from the bottom of each can. My original finish measures 3.7mm at the thickest point, the new brand of finish which appears much more yellow to me, measures 2.5mm thick. The original, while not perfectly water clear is significantly better than the other. Michael, if you're still watching this, what are the 2 biggest selling brands of
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Mark,spiral wraps appear to look strange to a lot of people but they make you look smarter, more in touch, as a builder. One thing though, try the simple spiral first, you may well find it's all you need and to me it's a lot simpler. Lynn
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Thanks for the responses guys, and John I did see and read the results of the test you mentioned. My finish was brand new just opened, and was measured with syringes. I understand all finishes will yellow over time. 24hrs. is a little too soon for me, especially when it's sitting in the dark. As they say fool me once..... Thanks , Lynn
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I recently decided to expand my horizons and try new things should I become old and set in my ways, so I decided to try a new brand of wrap finish. I've been on this board for 3 years now and I've read every post made since then, and almost all that have ever been made. A lot of them have had to do with finish yellowing. I have been using a certain brand of finish since I ran out of Clemen's Cry
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If Ron Schneider recommends something, you may trust it. And it will be at a fair price.
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If you're not using the guides mentioned, why worry about it? Just seems like a public notice type of thing to me.
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Jason, try it temporarily and fish with it. Don't worry about the opinion of others to much on this topic. You'll know it when you feel it. All the weight does is help you keep the tip up with less effort, causing less fatigue over extended periods.Lynn
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Mark, I can answer your first 2 questions, yes and yes. also a wetted coffee filter works well as an applicator. You must move fast as Tom said, and do not try to go back over anything already coated until dry.
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The butt weighted bass rods generally being discussed regarding this topic bear little resemblance to a flyrod. Some experimentation is in order.
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I have tried every possible kind of tape, surgical tubing, elastic thread, you name it, and for me nothing compares to Roger's method using orthodontic bands. Although I am somewhat confused by how to order the right sizes. I just wandered into the local orthodontists office and asked if I might buy some. When I told them what I wanted them for they gave some to me. Seems like a lot of tooth guys
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Mark, I got my tube of Elmer's wood filler at the local hardware for $2.79. Lynn
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Just curious, why do woodworkers use metal powders?
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I do as Norman does, start with a #8 KW.
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U-40 brush cleaner is recommended for cleaning blanks prior to wrapping or finishing.
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I hear ya! Bill
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I sometimes do things just because I like doing them!
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I believe Schneiders Rod Shop has them.
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I don't claim to know what the original guides were. I do know they break a lot and the total for the replacements was $10.20 before shipping. These rods cost $100.00 new. I suspect the original guides are titanium in color only.
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Randy, Ross is correct. I have one on the dryer right now. A family friend broke one on a recent trip to Canada and I quick fixed it with thread and nail polish. When we got back I got the rod to properly repair it and he requested I replace them all. Using ALPS xbytlg models which are pretty close to the originals. I was able to start with a #20 stripper instead of the the original #25 and the f
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Tom, I would call Amtak and talk to them. They are very helpful.
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