I kept this response in reserve in order not to prolong this post, but since it made it to the top again I am compelled to respond. It looks like the combatants have whittled down drastically and hopefully though attrition this post will die a merciful death. As of this writing there were over 6900 views and 200 posts. Crunching the numbers that's about 3% posts per views. Crunching these n
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Paste epoxies tend to have a higher viscosity than liquid two part systems and are better used to bond and fill gaps and may result in a noticeable bond line. . Trim rings and winding checks fit tight and flush to the mating part and are best bonded with adhesives that are less viscous to end up with the thinnest bond line. The trim ring is not under any load and does not need any super ad
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Sliding the guide on the blank must be kept to a minimum, most dental bands tend to be too tight and causes the guide to have a hard rub on the blank. No matter how carefully one preps the guide foot it will still scratch the blank if rubbed too hard. It is best if the guide can be lifted and moved rather than slid into place. I use the mini wood spring clothes pins for the childrens doll s
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Neat, but looks awkward. I guess one can get used to anything. Havr fun
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I personally think a 16mm reel seat for a big swim bait rod is too small. If you have very small hands it may be OK. If you find a long blank you like you can always make it shorter by cutting off the butt. I Like a carbon fiber fore grip and a cork rear grip. Fuji Alconite guides are fine. But no matter what guides you choose I would use a Fuji Sic tip.. A 9 inch rear grip is a tad
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Lynn I had the same experience and I asked him ti try using the rod like I do, his response was "WOW that's much easier" I think someone is just having fun. Have fun John
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Steve The answer is yes... then comes the "BUT this and the BUT that"..and the controversy. Its best to use the epoxy that is formulated to fit your need. The product label will guide you as to what it is intended for. Again, any adhesive can be used .......BUT.......... Have fun John
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You offered and explained the benefit to the customer, you can't beat him or wound him, so the only choice you have is to build it the way he wants, or decline and send him else where. Because if you change his mind and he is not satisfied with the results you will never see him again or get a good recommendation. I know this statement is tiresome and over worked and not always true, BUT, &qu
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Thanks Very informative I will do some fiddling. I think I can have fun with this.
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Ross, Thanks, the painted core is what I was interested thinking about. What concerns me is the core material doesn't seem very sturdy by itself and I know the carbon sleeve adds strength to the core but I am not sure how well paint will protect the core from dings and scratches. Again thanks for your effort. Have fun John
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Does anyone have a photo of a rod with a foam core grip. Thanks
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Having to buy something I don't want or need to get something I would like to try just doesn't seem right. Good marketing strategy. But Its not just AT but other companies do it as well. I'll pass
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Chris Catignani Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John DeMartini Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I called American Tackle about purchasing > > Microwave guide/guides individually. > > > > AT only will sell a #12 or #18 for casting and > fly > > stripper. The separate larger
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I called American Tackle about purchasing Microwave guide/guides individually. AT only will sell a #12 or #18 for casting and fly stripper. The separate larger components for the spinning rods are not for sale. I would appreciate it if anyone knows a source for single components. thanks
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If the grip is not somewhat concentric to start with, you may be applying too much pressure and the file is acting like a cam lifter and it rides the surface and follows the contour.To get the grip concentric the tool should remain fixed and just touch the high spots until the entire circumference is level. At that point one can start shaping.The best results would be using high speed and ligh
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Chris; Thanks I was not aware of that. John
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I don't use them because you have to by the complete set.
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I understand what train you are riding, but, I see no problem with the set up, my advise is to fish with it and have fun. The only problem is the battle between Mike W. Anderson and inner Mike W. Anderson. Have fun
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Frank You can make a fly rod from a spinning rod blank and vise versa. If in the end it suits your needs your effort is rewarded. My go to pan fish spinning rod was made from a fly rod. Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Frank, > I could never understand why someone would want to > do what you describe. There is a reason why there
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The CRB IS661 is a good light tackle blank for bass if he likes a shorter rod (6 1/2 ft). You should check out the CRB IS701L blank it is basically the same as the IS661 except it is 7 ft. I exclusively bass fish and use a IS701L when I bank fish and I have two IS701ML rods when I fish from a boat. They are inexpensive and durable. Have fun John
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It doesn't matter which camp you align with, any rod that is built will have some perceived unfavorable characteristic. Over time the user overcomes these deficiencies by observing how the rod behaves and adjusting for these deficiencies. Accuracy is a function of the angler. The truth of this statement comes from real live events. I have been to many ICAST shows and there is always an area se
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I build on the straightest axis because in the end it "LOOKS" right.
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Daryl, there are no dumb questions only dumb answers. I found this on the internet, it is pretty much what I thought it is. High sticking in fishing refers to raising the tip of the rod past 45 to 60 degrees when fighting a fish. This forces the rod to load up and bend much closer to the tip than it is designed to do. Since the tip of the rod is the most fragile part, high sticking your fis
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Check out Mud hole CRB 701L
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Pawel There were blanks made with boron ( 80's-90's ?) and I built a number of pistol grip and spinning rods with the boron blanks. They were good blanks but for some reason cost, public support etc. they never became popular.
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To me it's just doesn't seem right. I see it as marketing a gimmick, If it had merit the retail shelves would be loaded with them, and rod crafters' would saturate the forums, arguing as to what the optimum off-set should be. I go with what Peter said "Not buying what they are selling, but gotta give them credit for trying."
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What one should charge for a rod is a difficult question to answer, each builder has their own situation and expectations. Looks like that person took advantage of your generosity and wants to do it again. In your case I would charge him what he listed your rod for on @#$%& plus 10%. Have fun John
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It may not be so much the material but how the membrane is held and the method of passing the blank through the membrane.. Think about slightly stretching the membrane over a form like an embroidery hoop. It will keep the membrane fixed and give better control, also fixing the hoop to some thing solid to minimize relative movement. I am picturing fixing the hoop to pole or rail and getting
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Dave; That is the prudent thing to do, especially if you have no troubled history with your customer. Have fun
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It is possible the blank got scratched by the guide foot and developed a stress point. The guide may have had a burr or the guide was tied tighter at the tip and during any alignment adjustments the guide tip rubbed and scratched the blank causing a weak point. Just a "what if" thing to think about..
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