Yes you can sand it but definitely use a sanding block. Have fun
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So now what?
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"DITTO"
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More food for thought. I always apply a coat of wax (RENAISSANCE) on my rod after I clean it with soap and water. The paint, PermaGloss or other coating on a rod is intended to be a permanent finish and should be protected, the wax is a protectant, wax is not a permanent treatment it is sacrificial and is optional. The wax tends to fill in voids and fine scratches and tries to form an
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I have cut reel seats, but to hedge my bet I cut it to fit my reel with the longest foot, this way I can interchange all my reels if necessary.
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Any ring can groove but the number of of occurrences should be correlated with the number of times the rod is used. It takes a a lot of fishing and adverse conditions to cut a groove in a guide. I tried doing some research and it seems the AVERAGE fisherman fishes once every 3 weeks and about 6% of the fishing population fishes about once a week.Those folks don't give a rod much exercise.
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Looking at the photo I see a misalignment of the reel seat and the grip. Which item is off center the seat or the grip. If it is the grip off center the reel seat can stay put and all you need to do is remove the grip and butt end and replace them. If the reel seat is off center, Then I'm afraid you have to remove all the items below the fore grip. From your descriptior the guides are no
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"It casts like a dream", St. Croix made the blank but you made the rod and you cast it. Any faults or short comings in the blank is compensated by the way you built the rod and how you handle it. I have built a number of rods using the same model blank and components and after completion and handling discovered that each rod exhibited its own individual attitude. My experience is
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From the reel seat to the tip of the rod there will be no change. What changes with a shorter grip is the lever arm from the end of the butt to the grip point and just means it will take a little more force to keep the system in equilibrium. Robert Sunjara Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’d chop it in 0.5”-1” sections and test how > it feels. It’s
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Dean I never had a blank with two curves, If these curves are so pronounced you can't eyeball along the blank and see a relatively straight line I would insist on returning the blank. Have fun
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It will keep up as long as folks respond....... like me. If the horse isn't dead it is surely staggering. Did I mention that I build on the straightest axis? Have fun
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I have made and sold many spine finders, I don't use the spine finder to determine where to place the guides but to demonstrate what the spine does and how to find it. I don't mind reading posts that discuss the spine, when the thread gets tedious I stop reading and go off to other things. It may be boring and irrelevant but the newbies may find the spine posts interesting. The spine discu
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Find a laser pointer device light enough to place > on the end of a rod tip (I am not aware of one), > secure the rod butt in a horizontal clamp, pull > down the tip and let it oscillate up and down, and > rotate the blank until the laser oscillation > pattern (the frequency) is perfectly
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The only data I have to offer are responses from the folks who inspect and handle my rods. When I hand my rod for inspection 90% of the time this is what happens....... 1) They shake it, whip it, bend it from the tip and comment on the stiffness and the light weight. 2) They hold their head up look down their nose at the butt guide rub it with their thumb and comment on its' clarity an e
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Vibration- Wikipedia; Vibration is a mechanical phenomenon whereby oscillations occur about an equilibrium point. In all my years of fishing I have never experienced a vibration or an oscillation through my reel seat. The reaction I feel is a pulling on the tip or an occasional bump or a steady force pulling my rod. Sometimes, I hold and watch my the line, any bumps or pulling I feel c
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For an exposed reel seat to work the ID of the reel seat has to match the OD of the blank, thus your fingers are directly on the blank. If you have use an insert, then after the insert is is installed in the reel seat the insert around the reel seat slot must be cut away to expose the blank so you can still place your fingers directly on the blank, but there will be a recess in the contour of
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Thanks folks for the explanation and thanks Norman for the photo it brings it all together.
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I tried to find a photo of the Perma Gloss Container with no luck. I would like more info about the screw (type, size, length) and how it is attached to the can. Also I am interested in the procedure of how and when to use the screw. Anyone have a photo. Thanks
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Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl) is more of an antiseptic than a solvent and does not evaporate as quickly as DNA,(ethyl alcohol). DNA would be a better choice for future use.. Have fun
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Yes, more care must be taken when using power tools. But, Any power tool that you are competent and comfortable with will work, the problem is holding the smaller guides, I got around that by making a tool similar to one Mudhole sells. Have fun
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My right hand has a firm grip on the rod and my left hand goes around in circles, its a case of the right hand not knowing what the left hand is doing.
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What's so funny, I have a set of left and right hand metric screwdrivers (Philips), the big problem I have is keeping them organized.
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I agree with Daryl. "Comfort is my formula". IMO,The reason there ares so many grip length and styles is because everyone has a different requirement or comfort level and the manufacturers are trying to satisfy everyone. There are times when the combination of rod and handle length or functionality isn't available, in that case, in steps the custom rod builder to provide exactly wha
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I use; Contact cement for the cork rings. 2 part epoxy for cork to blank.
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Derick Jahnke Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- . This blank tends to > have a hard shutoff point. > > I plead ignorance, I am not familiar with the term, "hard shut off point" Please fill me in.. I fish the Ned lure with a medium light, 81 inch spinning rod.from a CRB- S701ML blank. Works like a charm. Regards
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I was in Oveido, Fl. today and I made time to visit American Tackle. The fun started as soon as I entered the showroom, I was warmly greeted by “Capt. “Mo” Fernandez and John Graves. After friendly introductions Capt. “Mo” gave me a rundown of their products and exchanged ideas about adhesives and rod crafting. I was really impressed with their knowledge and helpfulness. I opened an account wi
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I went to use my U-40 cork seal and it was stiff like caulking. I am sure it can be diluted with water but I am not sure how much to use. If something other than water will work please advise. Thanks
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Sensitivity Any test set up that results in measuring some type of response of a rod or blank has merit and sadly limitations. In order for it to have validity the test set up must remain the same for each test. The results will be a comparison of one rod to another. If one rod or test is set as a standard and given a number then all other rods tested can be given a value relative to that number
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The adhesive Roger suggests is a contact adhesive. It is formulated for Hypalon for optimum bonding, but for fishing rod grips it is an over kill. Weldwood or equivalent contact cement as suggested will do the job. Have fun
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Ernie Thanks for sharing that, valuable information. If it really looks good be proud of your work, I'll bet no one will notice unless you tell them. I have been known to keep a secret. I promise I won't tell, but I can't vouch for the rest of the forum. Have fun
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