The SSR guides by CRB and the Pac Bay Minima 4 guides have a double swagged stainless steel ring, I doubt if any fishing event could dislodge them, the only way the ring will fall out is if the frame breaks. The tip does the most work and sees the most force, for that reason I always recommend a tip with a stainless frame and a quality ceramic ring.
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For the type of fishing and the lures you use I don't see any advantage to switch to Titanium guides, If you are building ultra light rods or exclusively fishing salt water then the Titanium guides would be a good choice. To satisfy your curiosity buy the Titanium guides and decide for yourself if they are better. Biased opinions only add to the confusion. My biased opinion is that Tit
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It all depends on how much effort it takes to move the guide. The wrap should be tight enough to hold the guide firmly in place. I can't put a torque value on it but when I have to move a guide I wrapped, I grip the guide and give give the blank a hefty torque to move the guide, the wrap is tight enough that it takes several iterations to get the guide where I want it. HEFTY TORQUE... For
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It all depends on your priorities, what is most important to you... 1) your time, if so then buy it off the shelf.. 2) your money, if frugal build your own,. 3) your self satisfaction, if you can build a better rod than available build it yourself. Any time I spend building a rod is more valuable than banging away on the computer, playing games, reading gossip or watching a lot of TV.
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My preference is the rounded style, the classic to me looks like GUMBY. I like the guides and would try them. . Have fun.
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My concerns are; 1) Can the end of the foot be tapered and dressed for a smooth thread wrap transition. 2) Is the bottom of the foot flat or radius-ed. I grind / machine / file or sand a radius under the guide foot for a more secure contact against the blank. 3) What will be the price range. I know the foot can be dressed but the exposed whiskers of the fibers would have to be reseal
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Al It is a good question and I enjoy reading all of the valid and often biased responses of the pros and cons of the various wrapping machines available. I do not think you could go wrong with any of the top brands, any shortcomings can be managed with satisfactory results. I got around that confusion by making my own wrapping and turning system that suits my specific needs and most lik
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Here is suggestion number 4. A mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. Typical uses are cutting boards rolling pins bowls..... The oil sinks deep into the wood and after 2 or 3 days the oily feel is gone. The bees wax tends to seal the pores. After a few days the wood can be buffed to a satin sheen. A typical formula is, Beeswax 1 oz by weight and mineral oil 4.8 fluid oz. You can go to
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The general consensus is to use the rod, I also agree. The scratch doesn't look that bad. The scratch is there and its driving you crazy. My suggestion is to hide it. Cover the scratch with a decorative wrap about 1/2 long that matches the guides. It will become a psychological band aid distract you from thinking about it. To others it will look decorative. Have fun.
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I have a motorized system but I prefer to wrap by hand. I use the power feature to turn or refurbish grips My power system was designed and built by an obscure tinkerer (me) and because of this I am the only one who can operate it with any chance of success or survival. After the rod is chucked and ready for thread I have to yell to my wife "when the lights dim don't worry, its only me
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Looking at the photos, the end of the blank looks like it has a wall thickness thick enough to resist any distortion severe enough to break an adhesive bond. IMO If that blank should flex enough to compromise the bonding of the plug, then I am afraid there are more serious issues than a loose plug. To sum up the responses; 1) Leave it as is and keep an eye on it, address it if it moves
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IMO the plugs were not intended to add strength to the blank. I believe they are installed to; 1) To keep dust, dirt and other debris out of the blank. 2) To add a finishing look to the assembly and be more ascetically pleasing to look at than an open hole. In reality, your rod with care will serve you well with or without the plug. Have fun
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The plug does not add to the structural integrity of the blank, it's as you said, it is there to keep foreign objects out of the blank. If it will give you comfort you can carefully add a drop or two of super glue to the end of the plug to keep it from advancing any further. Have fun
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It may be and old myth and I am dating myself, but I used to rub the male ferrule (silver plated brass) on the side of my nose and wipe the ferrule on my shirt. I have done it often enough to believe there was some merit to it. Never had a problem with stuck or worn ferrules. I have no experience with composite ferrules because I now use only one piece rods. Wiping and cleaning the ferr
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I like the 7th from the right. What I would like if is possible is to have the butt section "ferruled" or removable so there is an option to have a shorter handle or a longer handle depending on the fishing conditions. Have fun
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I use over sized arbors. First, I fit the arbor to the blank, I then remove the arbor and mount the arbor on a mandrel and then turn the arbor down to a snug fit in the reel seat, this way all the parts will be concentric. You can mount the arbor on the blank and turn down the arbor to fit the reel seat if it is easier for you. I use tape wrap when the space between the reel seat and th
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IMO any finish that impregnates the cord will work, the para cord will harden and become solid. No different than a Carbon Fiber sleeve over a core. The only issue I see is that paracord is soft and not consistently round and will result in an uneven surface along the length of the grip. I guess if you are careful wrapping the paracord it can be massaged and applied evenly prior to finishing.
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The only time I use EVA is when the customer requests it. In my experience EVA is hard to keep clean and over time it tends to get stiff and crusty. Fore grips suffer the most wear so I like to use the carbon fiber fore grips because they are durable and require minimum care. My choice for the rear grip is cork. Cork is functional, comfortable and not to mention traditional. The bottom
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Glenn Nailed it. Looks like a Jago Electric Outboard
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Looking forward to it. I plan for Thursday.
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Anyone going to ICAST next week?
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Glenn Very good information thanks appreciate your effort. Thank you. John
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This is way off base but I'll take a shot. I just inherited a trolling motor, the only markings on the top by the twist grip is "CE" 55 Lb thrust and the motor clamp is marked " US 18052,5344" It is all black with a three blade prop. Any guesses will help for a more intense search. Thanks John
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The Tennessee handle can be very versatile. One can use a variety of reels and locate them any where on the handle to get a comfortable grip. Tennessee handles lend themselves well to ultra light and light rods. I built a ultra light Tennessee handle rod and used it for many years for trout and pan fish in Pa. and have had no regrets. I am not a fan of having a rod for specific lures. My ro
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Dremel, parallel cuts 180 degrees apart and pry with screwdriver. If the reel seat pops off cleanly and the existing arbor is sound try fitting the new reel seat over the existing "arbor" it may save time and work fine. If it's not possible then Rogers approach is my suggestion. Have Fun
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Think about using Perma-Gloss its extremely thin and one coat may just do it. Acetone is a very effective solvent, one just has to be careful using it.
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Yes, if you cut some of the tip off it will stiffen the rod and no worry there won't be any catastrophic after effects.. I would cut off a small section (1 inch) tape on a tip and test the rod. You may not have to cut off as much as you think. Have fun
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An eye loop may help especially after wiping the guide with a Q-tip. If you can't find any chips or cracks I would check the reel spool, roller or line guide. Have fun
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Its a scam. Have fun
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The winding check should slide down the blank easily without any applied force. Make sure the check is de-burred each time the check is test fitted. Have fun
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