Sulky metallics are the best rod building metallics I've tried, they are the only ones I use now-very nice. I just had a conversation with Sulky and here's part of it: "Since I've had such fantastic luck with Sulky Metallic threads, I've been chatting a little with the makers-the last email is below-and found out a little tip on using "off brand" threads for rod building:
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Something else.....make sure your rod is perfectly level. I use a bubble style carpenters level on every rod to get it perfectly level before I start the epoxy process. One nice even coat, 2nd coat to cover/fill the next day. My 1st coat coversfills most of the thread wraps but not all and goes just TO the egde of the thread. Once on, I heat the 1st coat a little to help it "soak" i
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I have a set of the Flex coat ones that I have used and used, never once cleaned them. Just draw up the needed amount and after releasing it wipe off the syringes with alcohol-seperate alcohol rag for each!-and place a piece of regular masking tape on the end and wrap it up tight on each one. The tiny bit of hardner and resin leftover in each syringe acts as a lubricant next time you use them.
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Good, I already ordered it :) Thanks David! .......now I won't have to worry about it matching before it comes in. DR
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How would a Fuji Titanium tip top match the American Titan guides in color? Is this a feasable do since AT doesn't offer a Ti tip top? DR
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Ken, Sight down the blank and align the guides on the straightest axis. It is that simple :) DR
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Small nibs: 1500 1500 most of the time, I'll only use corser if the situation needs it. DR
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Tom, I had the same trouble, what I do is really easy and works 100% of the time: Allow 1st coat of epoxy to set up, find the "burr's" and sand them down with a tiny piece of 600-1500 grit wraped around the tip of a popsicle stick (the larger flat side of the stick)... (sandpaper and all dipped in water). After de-burring wipe down with a wet paper towel to remove any sanding
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The Sulky metalics are my favorite, never had any troubles at all. DR
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If they "peel".....woill they peel with years of wear as well? DR
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"Much of the sewing thread on the market uses a silicone based lubricant to reduce friction during sewing. And we know what silicone does for finish epoxy. " LH Custom Rods I agree completely. I've found this out 1st hand and haven't bought anything "off brand" (other than Sulky Metallics that I REALLY like) since. All that work in wrapping and have a finish problem due
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I too use Aftcote and like it better than anything I've ever tried. DR
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I do not believe there is a min order required with Decal Connection. I just ordered 3 names to put on rods I've built for my nephews for Christmas from DC. I use two seperate decals, one for spec's and one for the builder DR
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Tim, I have both and see no difference like Tom mentioned.
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I use Aftcote and do nothing special at all and love it. Never once have I had a cureing problem. Mine is probably the "new" stuff and it works great. My dry time at normal room temp is overnight + or -. I usually put it on late at night and take it off the turner on the AM....about 6-8 hours? and it's good to go. DR
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I do mine by eye, then ask everyone in the house their opinion, and by the time 3 of us go through the process and it comes back to me they usually look purdy good :) DR
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Agreed Levi! Most of the time when a new product "makes it", they do increase costs. Over time these costs usually fall to competition and the end result can be a better product for about the same costs (or even less, if mass produced and eveyone picks it up as lesser costs due to multiple obvious reasons). This is not always true as you know, ......but it's nice to think we all cou
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Levi, This post wasn't about being "lazy", it was about the reasons why someone hasn't created guide feet that don't need it, or hardly need it. If you love to grind, we understand :) DR
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Darrin, Thank you. Ive been pleased with your grinding efforts, like you mentioned, I for one really like the "touching up"-if at all-of the guides that AMT is producing. Personally I believe it makes our job easier and it's far from being a cookie cutter, or using the grinding fact as a marketing tool for us builders, if we touch them up, they are ground in my eyes. Improvem
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I built myself a StCroix IV (4C76MHMF) FOR Carolina riggin and muskie baits, PERFECT and it's a 1+1 blank like he mentioned. However I turned mine into a 1 piece because I know I'd never use that option. The only thing about a 1+1 blank is the weight, they are heavier than the normal 1 piece in my opinion. DR
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With the techno available today, I would think that creating a perfect metal guide foot would be a simple task, it just cannot be that hard. We create thousands of items in tiny tolerances everyday and sell them for pennies, why not a rod guide, it's surely not rocket science. :) DR
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I never have understood why the rod guide industry just doesn't create guides that are ready to wrap to begin with (no grinding required) Could it be THAT hard to taper the feet and make a nice standard for everyone to use. Most guide sizes would surely dictate whats needed application wise. American tackle has started grinding their own and I believe they are on the right track, I hope others
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Mike is dead on the money, Harbor Freight is where mine came and a $7.95 (they run them on sale regularly) you can't beat it. DR
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Now Gary......something tells me that I just might be on the short end of the stick on that deal :) DR
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I've built a few IV's and like them well, what are your opinions on the StCroix V series.... better? worth the extra? lighter? more sensitive?..... DR
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I use two coats most of the time, I'l take my 1st coat ONLY to the very edge of the wraps and not even ON the blank very much if any, then on my 2nd coat I'll go past the wraps edges and onto the blank with the rod turner spinning. The most important part to me is having a GOOD rest for your arm to make a steady hand. I just use a brush. DR
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Fellers...... Blood stains = H202 to remove (standard household 2% peroxide) Won't harm, removes blood 100% of the time. Rinse after with warm water, air dry.
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Gary, I have tried a few "off" brands and the only one that really worked well for my is the Sulky Metallic's, I like these BETTER than the name brands in rod building. Like mentioned, several contain wax and other things that can drive you CRAZY when applying finish. I bought a spool of black and it basically ruined a rod build for me. The rod is still standing in the corner and
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"Just wish she could drink it now it sure would help with the hormones. I've been hiding in the garage nearly all day. Myles (Bearclaw) Brisbane, Australia" LOL!!!!!!!! I believe we've ALL been there a time or three :) DR
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I do all my personal rods with no winding check and use epoxy to build up a nice "flow" from the reel seat onto the rod blank-no froegrip on anything of mine :) DR
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