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Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Tom Nair
(---.ptldor.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: January 08, 2006 12:24AM
Every time I apply the first coat of finish my trim wraps have little rough spots. They are really tiny so I don't think I can cut them off. I don't know what causes this. Whats the best way to sand this area? What grit is to be used. Its almost like the first overlap and the pull through just don't want to lay down. I use Toms continuous wrap method and I like it. They look great until the finish. If I could just get through this my rods would look much nicer. Thanks for any insight. Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Raymond Adams
(---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: January 08, 2006 03:06AM
Tom,
Sounds like you either are not getting the tag ends cut off cleanly or maybe you are getting fuzzies. Any tiny bit of thread sticking up that you don't see before you apply the finish will result in that effect after the finish has set. Solutions: 1) use a new sharp razor blade (some builders prefer the double edge type as they are thinner) and pull up tightly when you cut them off. ( the tension causes the end to pull under the wrap) 2) burnish the wrap well after to insure burried ends. 3) look very closely for small hairs of thread that may not have gotton cut clean or for what ever reason is sticking up and if you see any of these fuzzies or a tag end not burried and too short to cut try burnishing again and then flame the wrap very quickly and carefully with a lighter or alcohol flame. ( must be a clean flame no soot) The flame will melt the fuzzies and they will or should disappear! When you have those little tiny bumps after the finish is set you can just cut them close with a razor or sand them down with an emory board or similar and then apply another coat of finish. Easy fix happens all the time dont sweat it. Some threads are more prone to this trouble than others. I have the most trouble with metallics myself. Raymond Adams Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it.. Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Fred Crum
(66.6.80.---)
Date: January 08, 2006 07:42AM
Tom;
like Ray said about using a flame, hold the rod UNDER the flame, not on top. This avoids the dreadded soot problem he spoke of. Also you might try not using your regulay thread tensioning device for trim wraps, may be causing you problems also, ie fraying. Ray, what are you doing up this time of night, I thought I was the only idot working graves! Fred Crum Dixon, Ca. Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Randy Parpart (Putter)
(---.propel.com)
Date: January 08, 2006 10:20AM
A bit more burnishing before the finish maybe?
Burrs still there? I like a small emory board and lightly touch it up with a thin coat over the whole wrap after. Putter Williston, ND Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Leon Mack
(---.san.res.rr.com)
Date: January 08, 2006 03:21PM
Tom: I'm still getting more than I want of the same thing. I have seen some improvement based on advice from others on this site and the Doc Ski DVD. If you can take a look at that DVD he shows how to burnish the thread in a way to sort-of pull the tag end under the wrap a little bit. I have seen some improvement in just getting down closer and at a greater magnification to actually watch the cut and apply it in a more careful and meticulous way. I like to get enough magnification on the small wraps to see the individual A-size threads. I like the small alcohol flame thrower for just brushing the thread with a quick flame too. After the first coat of FC light I have found that I can usually shave off the bad part with a carefully applied sharp blade. The emory board works well too. Good luck. I'm looking forward to hearing what other methods you might find that work well. Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Duane Richards
(---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: January 08, 2006 09:22PM
Tom,
I had the same trouble, what I do is really easy and works 100% of the time: Allow 1st coat of epoxy to set up, find the "burr's" and sand them down with a tiny piece of 600-1500 grit wraped around the tip of a popsicle stick (the larger flat side of the stick)... (sandpaper and all dipped in water). After de-burring wipe down with a wet paper towel to remove any sanding leftovers on each area/wrap AS YOU GO, don't allow the sanding leftovers to dry (it can make the sanding leftovers harder to remove if you do allow it to dry). Re-coat with 2nd coat of epoxy. Done. Perfect everytime. It sounds like a task, but really only takes 5 minutes for the entire rod, .....it's simple really. DR Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Tom Nair
(---.ptldor.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: January 08, 2006 11:21PM
Thanks for all the replies. I have work to do! Duane, do you use 600 or 1500 grit, or anywere inbetween? Thanks Tom. Re: Trim wrap help
Posted by:
Duane Richards
(---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: January 10, 2006 06:55PM
Small nibs: 1500
1500 most of the time, I'll only use corser if the situation needs it. DR Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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