Silicone Tape or Rescue Tape is what I use. It fuses to itself and doesn't have a stick residue.
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I would think that wood or pour foam would be the best two options. With the pour foam, you'd have to sand and seal it before painting it in order to fill in any voids. The main thing with either medium is to get it sanded, sealed, and primed in order to achieve a good bond. You can use a number of top coatings, permagloss (if the paint can handle it), thread finish, the epoxy used to cover ca
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It's just cooking spray made with canola oil. I'm sure Stoner release is better, but the cooking spray is definitely easier than the vaseline. You just need to make sure your mandrel is clean, then spray. I've done a number of pours tonight, and some slid off easier than others, but all of them could be done with just the channel locks and my hands. When the mandrel slides out, there hasn
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I have never used Stoner urethane mold release, because I can't find it locally and I keep forgetting to order it. I've always used vaseline on my mandrels when using pour foam. Every time I use vaseline I still get pour foam left on the mandrel and sometimes it is still stuck pretty good. Tonight, I decided to clean the mandrel good, then use Pam nonstick spray to see if was better than vaselin
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Mr. Gardner and Campbell - Thanks for the responses. I always have my butt guide going in the direction of the spiral and have never had problems with the line stacking, even when throwing deep cranks. I use a total of 3 guides to make the turn with the 4th guide being on the 180 axis. I build primarily only bass rods, so maybe rods for heavier use have some issues stacking. I'll have to bu
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Mr. Gardner - Does your butt guide go towards the spiral direction or away?
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Scrapbooking stickers work great. I've used butterfly stickers from a scrapbook store and they worked fine.
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I had thought about it but don't have any material for extensions. And I actually like the length of it now, I was just curious if anyone has had any luck cutting it down much.
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I had an unfortunate accident with a door and butt end of a xp3 874 that left me with a 6'8" blank. I had some nice grips glued on, but that was it, so while it wasn't good, it could have been worse. Has anyone cut the frog rod down this much? How did it perform at 6'8" Thanks, Jeremy Reed Reed Rods
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Lynn WIlliams has a 12 hour timer on his dryer.
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Mr. Eshelman, You ain't joking. It is really nice when everyone can go home with something that was donated. It really adds to the event. Everyone walked home with a kigan hook keeper from Hyrda. Everyone went home with some really nice donated items. We had some recent past issues of RodMaker donated that were given out to anyone who wanted them. There was a 31 year old soldier that took
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Today we had the first KYRBS event in Grand Rivers, KY. We had 10 people present, and Kentucky, Tennessee, and Missouri represented. We started at 8 am and finished around 4pm. We added a soldier stationed at Fort Campbell to that group that is just starting to look at building his own rods. Even though he hasn't built a rod yet, he was able to cut off a reel seat after JB Hunt covered the top
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I use butt plug caps from Lowes located where all the screws etc are at. I haven't used the mudhole grips, but I assume these will work. Look for the drawer with automotive parts at Lowes.
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This is a reminder for those interested in coming, we have the KYRBS event on April 13, 2013, in Grand Rivers, KY. Below is a layout of the event. April 13, 2013 – KYRBS Event Grand Rivers, KY – Community Center Rental $90 – Will look for a cheaper place to have it if we stay below 10 people attending ~ $10/person or less Confirmed Attendance
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Todd Theodore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The only technique I could think of would be if > your throwing hard jerkbaits from the deck of a > bass/jet boat. Much of the time your rod is > pointed straight down at the water while > jerking/twitching. Seems it might be better to > have guides on the top of the rod. I don't have > muc
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I didn't get to watch it live, but I was able to watch it on youtube. It answered many questions for me. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
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Thank you for the responses. I've got one tournament angler in particular who likes a stiff blank with throwing cranks, and even though this goes against convention, he catches them and wins tournaments here on KY Lake. I'm building on a Batson IMB blank for him; he's handled the blank and really likes the feel of it. He also uses mono still for throwing cranks, so this may be one reason he pr
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I've been pouring my foam into square cake pans and using a radial arm saw to cut 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" blocks; it works, but it can be time consuming. I needed some new foam so I decided to go ahead and order the foam core kit with the mold. The mold is pretty sweet, it gives you a nice dense foam that has minimum voids and it is on the mandrel ready for turning once it is done. I know ma
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For the deep crankers, the Strike King 10xd and Manns 30+, what blank recommendations do you all have? I have had a couple guys ask me, and to be honest, I'm not sure what to recommend. I have a xp3 965, but I haven't been able to throw this bait on it, and I have a RF LE 806 that is not built up yet. The 10xd weighs in at almost 2 oz, so I feel that these blanks may not have enough power for
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422 of the ProWrap seems to match the mudhole decal I have.
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At least you're building for someone that has some common sense. Go C-A-T-S! I have 3 blues on hand and I'm waiting to get in 4 more this next week. Also, I've noticed the blue varies on UK products at times. I've got some mudhole decals on the way, so I'll let you know which goes best with them once I get them in.
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I'm would like to be included in the mailing list / discussion group. Jeremy Reed Reed Rods reedrods@gmail.com
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I should clarify, I am doing only sanding and roughing work on my grips (cork/eva/foam). I haven't needed to bore yet; I do a lot of split grips which are usually no more than 4" or so. To bore these, I use a drill press and a self centering drill vise.
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I have had a jet 1220 for almost a year now. It is not a variable speed. Although variable speed would be nice to have, for cork/eva, you do not neet it. I have yet to change the speed on my lathe when working with grips since I bought it. If I do need to change it, it can be done pretty quickly with how they have the lathe set up. I found mine on craigslist for a good bargain. With all the
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I recently ordered a Batson IP842 to try out. What are some of the uses for this blank? I was thinking of using it as a drop shot or split shot spinning rod. Thanks
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Thanks for the responses. I was just curious about the triggerless. I've never seen them in real life, so I've never used one. I figure with Edge rods coming out with them, and spiral wraps, that custom builders will start getting a lot of requests for these. I've had some good tournament fishermen request rewraps and whatnot, and when I asked about spiral wrapping, they knew nothing of it. A
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Mr. Bial's post got me questioning the use of trigger seats. I've never seen a casting rod in real life that was triggerless. After doing a quick search on the internet, I see that there are a few out there, and the best seat I've seen is one on an Evergreen rod, that I believe fuji manufactured for them. So my questions are, why do we not see more triggerless seats? What are the benefits o
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Also if you're reaming, go with lay of the strip and not against it. This will help prevent it from popping off if you do happen to heat it just a little.
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There's been some good advice already given above. Here's a link that shows just how much you can do to fix fuzzies.
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