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Give a man a fish (or an exact stripper placement) and he eats (builds) for a day. Teach a man to fish (or explain a design concept) and he eats (builds) for the rest of his life.
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Would suggest you go to the MN or KW or a single foot (KL) to save weight.
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I think that's your best bet, Mark. Good luck with the build.
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Mark, the only thing critical is the heights of the guides you choose. They could all be different models and you could still build a good layout if the spacing and heights came out with good concentricity and proper choke at each position. Personally, I think the LC and LRV would look pretty odd paired together in the same train. One has a very long footprint while the other is very short. I ass
Forum: rodboard

Christian, over time as you become familiar with the two "concepts" you will notice there is a fairly obvious dividing line between the KR Concept and the New Guide Concept. These days, anytime I am at or below a 4000 Series reel and at or below 30# braid I know, almost automatically, that KR will be my choice. Anything above those specs requires at least a look at the New Guide Concept
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Phil, and I am asking this in all sincerity, can you please name a consumer product that we all buy based on hard, objective, measurable data,... with no emotion, opinion or subjectivity attached whatsoever? A product we all buy because it is demonstrably better according to the "data". I've spent the last few minutes trying to think of one. I can't.
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It's a marketing issue. Like Imperial vs Metric.
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I look forward to the chart. I support what you're doing. In fact, I live in the same zone. Everyone wants placement charts and I keep telling them "how to think" to make it even easier. It's an uphill grind, brother.
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Please do. Early on I referred to the chart(s) I could find but their fly rod orientation didn't go far enough to rate many spinning and casting blanks. That's what led me to the NFC chart and that's where things started to get confusing and more complicated than necessary based on the original work. A reprint would be great with additional info for blanks that take 1000 grams to bend to one thir
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Agreed, Mick. It's the "overhwelmng" part I'd like to see fixed. I think that's how we can mainstream the system. How to vids, charts, simplicity.
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The ERN conversion chart from NFC is one I refer to in determining the final number but I must say, it is not the most user-friendly data to work with. I think many rod builders shy away from the work when they reach this point and misinterpretation or doubt about the method leads to doubt about the results. Somewhere in my early research, I came across a multiplier that made things a whole lot e
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Ah yes, Dennis. Glad you liked it. Kinda like ordering a filet mignon and then dropping on the floor after a couple of bites.
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What happened to the POINT Blank?
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Kyle Welcher is using the PB701MLF for drop shotting and the PB701MF for Shakey head.
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I have posed this question to our pro, Kyle Welcher. Kyle is building on POINT Blank and using them on the ELITE Tour. Seems like that should be good feedback. I will ppost as soon as I hear from him.
Forum: rodboard

KR GPS came out when the 5.5M was the primary third guide in the reduction train. 6L, 6M, 7L, 7M, 8M, 8H all came out later as many discovered that KR had applications beyond medium weight micro rods. Their formulas were added to GPS after the initial software was developed and there were a few cases where the fit was not exactly perfect considering some 3 guide trains 4 guide trains etc. using t
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Fuji has Titanium in SiC and TORZITE in K-Series guides and a beautifully executed Black Titanium called T2. 100% Titanium is buttery soft. Fuji's Titanium Alloy is extremely strong, very light and has proven itself over decades of use. Look closely and you will also notice the U-channel design in a cross-section of the frame leg which adds even more strength to the lightest guide frames availabl
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I LOVE that rod, Ima get another one just like it! Wait, there's no information anywhere on it! Dang.
Forum: rodboard

We are pleased to announce that we have reopened, along with the State of Alabama, and will be working diligently in the coming weeks to reestablish a normal workflow for all of our customers. We have continued to ship the past few weeks with a limited crew and we are now working at full capacity to keep our customer’s production schedules on track. We are experiencing only minor and sporadic del
Forum: rodboard

Hey Keith. Anglers Resource is closed until Friday, but we have all been working from home the entire month and have been shipping with a skeleton crew the past 2 weeks. I just asked our Pro Team member, Kyle Welcher, about his choice for pitchin' and he said he uses the PB761HF if the cover is heavy (vegetation) or the PB731MHXF if he is over rocks or sparse bottom cover. PB731MXF would be the c
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Fuji would not recommend KR Concept for a rod that heavy but...guys are doing it all the time with no problem. Spinning guide forces are such that there will be no torsional force and only minimal downward force spread across all the guides. KR guides are small ring, high frame so consider the angling situation you will be in - not so much the power of the fish but the brutal offshore environment
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Occasionally, when the mood hits me, I travel to a custom butcher shop up in Robertsdale, AL. The ribeyes there are Prime beef, a grade you seldom see anymore. They are carefully aged in old temperature-controlled dairy cases until they develop a slight iridescent sheen. Twenty-one days. They are perfectly marbled. They are expensive. They are delicious. I can get just as full on a frying pan rib
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Agreed, performance on a 90-degree ring faced either direction will be the same. But, it bears mention that guide feet are most likely designed with particular forces in mind. Please don't ask me the variance in strength between the "folded" side of, say, a KW foot on the double frame leg side vs the single frame leg side. All I'm suggesting is that, at some point, the designers probabl
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NEVER mix the KR Concept with the New Guide Concept. It causes the dreaded malady known as "RLP" (Rod Layout Paralysis).
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A higher, smaller ring is a design feature that controls the line coils faster. It's about the combination of spool, height, position and line. You can "blow by" a 25 just as fast as 30 with bad position or the wrong reel spool or height. The smaller, higher ring will "manage" things faster IF it's in the right position and the line is coming off the proper spool. KR Concept i
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The 90-degree bend is an estimation of an "average bend" under load (fish fighting). A change in the bend angle will result in the blank telling you a different story. Since the rod will go through an infinite number of bends in virtually every fight, the idea of "perfect" distribution is literally impossible. Set it up at 90-degrees and don't drive yourself nuts. Line rubbing
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Couple of points: 1) If using a carbon sleeve and cap ring the natural desire is to create a good, tight fit. This is not a good idea. The metal edge of the cap ring can ding and weaken the blank in a deep bend situation. It can also rub or scratch the blank if reels are swapped out too often and the ring rubs the blank when tightening or loosening. Instead, take a little extra time to add a w
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Yes, Robert. We recently introduced both of those blanks and likely included the wrong decal. I'll do my best to get one out while we are closed.
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