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Current Page: 5 of 45
Results 121 - 150 of 1336
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Thanks for the input gentlemen. The sales channels will remain the same but hopefully, availability will improve with current retailers.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
April 1, 2021 will mark the beginning of Fuji’s ULTRA Poly™ Thread being warehoused, distributed and marketed from a US base, according to a company spokesman. The product will continue to be manufactured in Japan from the same source. Anglers Resource®, the exclusive North American distributor of Fuji® Rod Components, will assume management responsibility for the product line. The company ha
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
I created a wood channel that the blank lays in. It supports my hand at puts the blank close to the surface (like writing on a piece of paper). It seems like the closer I am to a natural writing surface, the better my results. And it stabilizes the blank.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
That is the finest combination I have found. Also the most difficult to master.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Hey, Marc. I would be willing to bet that your "whole bunch" and Fuji's "whole bunch" are a few zeros apart! ;)
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Here is a quick photo of the first spinning rod I grabbed. This a size 20 KL-H stripper showing the amount of "web" in front of the guide that will reduce or eliminate the guide epoxy popping away from the blank. No pop, no corrosion. If you fill the tunnels along the side of the foot properly the epoxy will ooze out the open end of the wrap and that is usually enough. No need to pile e
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Fuji uses and has used a 304 stainless for 30+ years and managed to outperform the competition. We hear the 316 argument all the time but it's well accepted that the POLISH on stainless is where the corrosion resistant barrier comes from and the polish on Fuji stainless is unmatched in the industry. You don't need any PMI testing to get us to tell the truth. In fact, we have expanded our selecti
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
In theory, moisture will never reach the foot, Todd. In the real world, there's a fair chance that over time the epoxy on the forward side of the foot (where the frame legs bend up) will pop away from the blank under load. That's all it takes. If you haven't experienced this you've done it all right. To reduce those chances, we recommend stopping the epoxy (and sometimes the wrap as well) before
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
It's always best not to break through the finish on any guide to maintain the effectiveness of whatever finish or treatment the manufacturer has used. Any removal of material will, in effect, "void the warranty" of the component. Even Polished stainless, when "scuffed", is much more likely to fail over time since it is the level of polish that provides the protective "vap
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Think Horizontal. Move the KCB to the left of the art, put Customs to the right of the art to make the whole thing viewable on the rod. I would also consider increasing the angle on the rods behind the skull to make the art "flatter" so the rod tips don't disappear as they wrap around the rod. JMO.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
The LDB is a closed frame micro runner. Only goes up to a 6. The only thing I would consider as tough enough for a boat guide might be the KB7. You would get the benefit of a very strong, very large foot on a single foot guide. It is not referred to as a boat guide, however.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
The PB691MXF is likely to never see anything heavier than 15lb braid. The 16 stripper will probably be fine.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Got a boo boo in there somewhere...
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
There are a lot of surf rods being built using KR Concept these days but the default for any rod that big would be Fuji's original NGC (New Guide Concept). In that case, GPS for NGC would give you precise positions for KW or KL.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
GPS gives results for ALL guide sizes and their position relative to the spool axle tip. It is UP TO YOU to choose the 3 guides (maybe 4) that will work best (based on size, height and spacing) as a reduction train group to the choke point. A word on reel measurement: If the drop between the back of the reel and the tip of the spool axle is more than 10mm....you've done something wrong. We have
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
5.5 is my choice because I am usually casting a braid to 20# fluoro knot. That and the fact that I get tired of looking for the 4's on the floor, where I inevitably drop them while trying to pick them up. Size 4 would be plenty for your set-up.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Mid-point is NOT choke point. Have you used the New Guide Concept GPS? Choose the "Y" guide. "LY" is the new name since it is now an NGC guide with Deep Pressed Rings.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
5.5
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
For what it's worth. The 16, 8, 5.5 KR Reduction train is just what the doctor ordered IF certain things will likely NOT change on a particular rod. I get whisper-quiet performance from the 16, 8, 5.5 with a 2500 Series reel loaded with 8lb Power Pro. I use this set-up for small jerk baits, shallow swimmers and 1/8 oz grubs on medium, medium-light and light blanks. These rods are a BLAST to fish
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising

Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Done, Bob. The sticker on the blank is correct. The 7'10" blanks are doing great, hope you enjoy it.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
It's a big world out there. We try to be as bipartisan as we can.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Fuji's black finish was comparable to an automotive finish and as such required special exhaust treatment and produced other inorganic byproducts that required special handling for disposal. The facility that coated the guides warned Fuji 3 or 4 years ago that changing environmental laws in China would have a substantial impact on their ability to continue a supply. I'm sure what that meant was &
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Tom. It's kind of like writing short. Folks just don't understand. ;)
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Chad, the only thing wider than the selection of blanks available to builders is the number of opinions those same builders will have about blanks. You have listed some of the best blanks around according to many in the "know". I hope you have the chance to build every one of them in the future. Then you'll know.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Mark, I think you are spot-on for your particular situation. I would stick with fluoro and I would stay with the 16. No need for extra ID with 4lb line. I was speaking of the "concepts" that guide the vast majority of builders who "get it". In my experience, 15lb braid, a 3000 Series reel and a KL20H stripper on a hi-mod blank is a match made in heaven. Maybe Tom is right
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Mark, I think you are spot-on for your particular situation. I would stick with fluoro and I would stay with the 16. No need for extra ID with 4lb line. I was speaking of the "concepts" that guide the vast majority of builders who "get it". In my experience, 15lb braid, a 3000 Series reel and a KL20H stripper on a hi-mod blank is a match made in heaven. Maybe Tom is right
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
Fuji introduced KR Concept as a reduction train used for braided line. No mention of it being a "micro" or mono theory, so testing it with mono was a contradiction of the original concept as it was defined. Also, the size 16 stripper is far more "touchy" than the 20. We don't recommend a 16 unless you are going below 10lb braid or below 6lb mono. Even then you can get a stiff
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
We will carry them in Titanium Slim SiC 8 thru 30.
Forum: rodboard
3 years ago
Jim Ising
We have, in fact, experienced delivery delays on POINT Blank. We expect a shipment due any time that should correct the problem.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 5 of 45

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