More guides (to a point) and static loading combine to add power to the hook-set and the ability to move fish. It's not a huge effect, but it's there,
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CPB7101XXHM Length: 7ft 10inches Weight: 3.4 oz Lure wt range: 1/2 - 2oz. Action: Moderate (63-degrees) Power: Double X Heavy (IP = 1209 grams) Tip size: 7.5 Butt diameter: 14.60mm This is a winch! It has the power, just don't smack it on a concrete bridge piling.
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Why not use the RV6 as the bumper?
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I use this guide on all my inshore casting rods and have never had a problem with strength or knot hang-ups. It is double foot and always followed by 2 or 3 KB big-foots on my rods so there is more than enough resistance to torque in this section of the rod. Mark, you can reverse the LC or HB but you'll end up with a bigger, heavier ring to get the height you get from the RV6...which sort of
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The RV6 does have a slope like all K-Series guides. Not much, but it's enough to work with the single leg. Combined with the flared double leg on the backside it "sheds" loops upward to become tangle-free as other K-Series guides.
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I found a little treasure the other day. A digital caliper that gives fraction-of-an-inch readouts on the screen. It's the "FastenerCal" model. Very handy for tip tube size measurements when you have to make that pesky translation from mm to 64ths of an inch to get a tube size for a top (why are we still doing that?). It only goes down to 32nds but it's simple to double the top number a
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We introduced 84 new kits in our 2021 Catalog. 84! If you spent weeks researching and reading and worrying about the exact components to use on almost any rod...you would come up with a kit we assembled. Each one was scrutinized for accuracy, carefully compared to Fuji concept documentation, looked at with an experienced eye and ultimately given a "Fuji Seal of Approval". The point is,
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GPS will give you layout and positions for a New Guide Concept reduction train. GPS for KR results are only valid for the specialized KL-H frame. Mixing the two is not always a good idea. KW will not have the height for a GPS-for-KR layout. An NGC layout with KW will cast great, it will be only slightly heavier and maybe a few feet shorter in distance. Or you can go to the RV-H double foot KR gui
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David, you are not the only one disappointed about black. It was very popular. Fortunately, the vast majority of builders and factories have moved to BC without too much trouble. Fuji spent almost 2 years trying to locate a DURABLE black finish that could match the original finish without violating pending environmental regulations. When none measured up to the original they developed the CC, BC
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As far as we know, Fuji has no plans to reintroduce black guides.
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Always NOCP. And try size D for a more noticeable single trim ring.
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SK2 is a great choice where minimum weight is the goal. It is not as forgiving as a DPS or VSS seat. Both are more substantial "handfuls". SK2 is two piece...which can be challenging for beginners. Build it KR Concept with a 20 stripper and you are off to the races.
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I'm pretty sure accuracy is an angling attribute and not an equipment feature. Regardless of the direction or angle a rod set-up tends to sling a lure, within 2 or 3 casts an angler worth his salt has made an adjustment that reclaims the accuracy he's accustomed to and spends the day with that slight change. But I don't think that's the end of the story. When an angler claims "accuracy&qu
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DC77 is, in my opinion, the only power wrapper with the features to GROW with any builder's level of experience. If you have built a couple of rods and discovered a passion you didn't know you had, the DC77 has the ability to slow down and grind you through all the entry level headaches and still be there when you've reached lightning speed.
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Polished frames are available in SiC rings along with Gunmetal (GM), Titanium (T) and Black Titanium (T2). The only frames gone are standard stainless and black. Polished stainless has always gotten very high marks for corrosion resistance due to the level of polish Fuji provides on this frame selection. As has been explained many times on this forum, the higher the polish the stronger the va
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IMO, the new Flex Coat wrapper should always be included in any discussion of the "standard" list of power wrappers. Unless you wrap at 150rpm and never make a mistake, you'll be way better off with the Flex Coat.
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Phil will love that, Mick.
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Mind-boggling.
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Drag washers (total drag), line capacity and quality of innards seems to be where you should spend the money (based on target species). Spool diameter and line choice have to play well with stripper position, height and size to realize full potential. Throwing money at the reel won't automatically make you cast farther. I have a couple of ancient Gander Mountain spinners that cast like a dream, j
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I think distances like that must have something to do with the equator, Brandon. There must be less gravity on the south side of it.
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For big surf, there are few guys as knowledgeable as Brandon. He and Mike Hickey pioneered KR for big rods when Fuji introduced it as a light braid concept. With Brandon and Norm on the same forum I can consider retirement. Or at least a vacation.
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Thanks, David. As we were introduced to the rules of the KR concept by the Japanese engineers that developed it, we could glean a few themes early in the process. I don't remember exactly but I built probably 40-50 rods using the concepts from them and made notes of mathematical equivalencies from rod to rod regardless of length, power, line weight and reel size. All assumptions were based on the
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Good advice guys. You can always ballpark whacky suggestions along a table edge...just to make yourself feel better about following through on an "experiment". Welcome, Brandon!
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Hey Brandon, yes it is a design feature often overlooked in the K-series runners but I think it is equally used incorrectly. When I say "no web", there is a good reason you don't want a "web" there. Too much epoxy will set up a situation where the guide foot can become a fulcrum that forces that little "web" upward and "pops" the epoxy off the blank under l
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I like KB's to the top on heavier set-ups. Blank diameter seems to be the indicator for me. If the blank diameter is big enough (all the way to the tip) to support the wider foot of the KB, it's usually a powerful enough blank to "need" KB. At those power levels the weight of KB vs KT is a moot discussion. Take advantage of the little "wicking port" between the legs of the fra
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Sunshine bumps it up way more. I use the silver pinstripe on a lot of ULTRA colors, especially lighter ones that I know will die against a black blank. It's faster than painting white and far more reflective than a metallic underwrap - and the stuff sticks like crazy.
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Fuji 501 NOCP and Fuji Dark Blue (008) ULTRA wrapped over a base of highly reflective silver automotive pinstripe material. Pops like it's on TV (even tho it's been used for years). I have no idea why the pic is wonky but the colors are there. Go Gators! Class of '75.
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Tons of resources out there, Mychael. Good understanding of what you are trying to accomplish can be studied at . Read about the "New Guide Concept", the "KR Concept" and "Static Loading" for a good foundation of the basics. Become a student of those three ideas and you will never need a placement chart again.
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What spinning blank are you using?
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I am currently building a CTS JetStream 8'6" 1-2oz for Pompano on the Alabama gulf coast. This will be my third build trying to get it "just right" and based on the way the blank specs and feels I think I'm there. I will load #20 braid on a 3000 series reel using a KL20H as a stripper. I need to hurry, the fish are due any day.
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