Schneiders Rod Shop Good people! RB
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Two options come to mind...but there are probably more. 1. Sand down the whole wrap and re-finish or 2. tear-down and re-wrap/finish. (probably what I would do) RB
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Built it with spey-style grips! I have one just like this for swinging dries for summer steelhead. I've built this one with a PacBay CL7R-B seat, #12/10/8 PacBay LCTNG's, and LCFNG 8's out to the tip. I prefer the Forecast spey grips over the Pac Bay's. It loads well with WF6 line, but even better with a WF7. This is a FUN rod! Enjoy it! RB
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David, I would second the suggestion to switch to Rod Bond. Use it for all you handle/seat applications. Its a paste epoxy and easy to work with. It stays where you put it. Work towards getting more of the blank bonded to your seat. Not just the arbors. I would also suggest using fiberglass drywall tape as your arbor material. Its woven design allows you to work epoxy into the weave and
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I prefer FC Lite. If you go that route, maked your first coat thin. Thin enough to see thread texture. If you dont use CP, work from the toe of the guide foot towards the heel, allowing the finish to penetrate the threads. This will push out most of the bubbles. Flame the wraps to get those last bubbles out of the guide foot area. Put it on your dryer. I check for bubbles 2x in the first 30
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I always include a personalized warranty card which contains the recepie of all the components used for the rod, and I keep a copy of this for myself for later reference. Most customers like to know all the details. If you've got a website, ask them to send you a picture of their rod and first fish so you can post it. RB
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Check Jann's Netcraft. In the sponsors list.
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Rob, I'm in Snohomish, shoot me an email if you want someone close to chat with while you're at your wrapping bench. Rob jerobox@earthlink.net
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Its all personal preference. I like small wraps. For single foot guides, I start one thread turn on the blank, and then up the foot. There is usualy a length difference on most double foot guide feet.. I measure each from the toe to where the guide frame begins to slope upward to find the longest foot. I wrap the longest one first, and then adjust how far off the guide foot I need to start m
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I've had alconites on a salt rod for 3 years and they have held up well. Be sure to rinse with fresh water and wipe down after each outing as a precaution. Not just the rings, but the guide frames as well. RB
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Xylol (Xylene) It can be purchased at most paint supply places. Cheap. Fumes are a little much, but it you only need a small amount. I use an old pint sized canning jar, 1/4 full. I keep it sealed when not in use. Wipe most of the finish off and then drop it in for a few minutes. (Outside...as the boss has requested.) rinse around, then rinse well in hot soapy water. RB
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A few things to try. First . Is your blank is turning true? If you are using a home-made lathe and your turn is slightly off-center, support the blank at the nearest point where it wont interefer with your hand or the threads. Second. Rest your hand on something as mentioned above. Third. Dont use use tape, slowly work the epoxy off the edge of the end of the threads with very little brush
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A friend of mine was the director of marketing for Pac Bay for several years. I have built on both the Traditon II and the Rainforest II series fly blanks, and steelhead/salmon blanks. Out of maybe 30 blanks, i've not found one that needed to be send back or replaced due to excessive curve, bad ferrule fit, poor finish...etc. I cannot speak for others, but their quality control is excellent. I
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A local hardware store should have a caliper for ~$20. That would be the best way to measure O.D. Trust me, you'll get good use of of it over the years. RB
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Has anyone matched a good thread for use with the plum color of the blank and the purples in the holo guides? Thanks for your input I'd love to see pictures if you've got them! RB
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Thanks all for the input. I'll have to try this on my own and be ready for the next time a blank color change order comes around. Rb
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I've never had a request to paint a blank....until now. I guess I knew it would come some day. :P I've been asked to build a purple fly rod with pink wraps for a grandaughter. Here are the questions I would love your help with. What are the preferred paints for this task? How many coats? What brand of clear coats used over the paint? How will all of this affect ferrule fit? Is a matte
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Troy, A Dan Craft FT1008-4 would do you right! For your purpose, I would use a seat with interchangeable fighting butts, and have both a 2" and a 5" (Like the Pac Bay Channel Lock 7, + F2 and F5 butts) With distance casting, weighted lines and longer rods, that little extra bit of leverage you get from a longer fighting butt helps. Brainstorming..... In one of the past issues of
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Brian, I have not cast the RX8+ or the DC FT, but I have built & cast a few SCV's. The SCV's are fabulous casting machines. Light, fast, and powerful. The only drawback is the finish. Its pretty, but soft. Scratches and nicks easily. I built an SCV 10 wt, 2 years ago for a friend who fishes it 5 days a year for kings in AK. I've known this guy for 20 years, and know how he handles an
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I've got the 13' 8/9 and use an Orvis Floating 8wt Mid Spey line (medium length head) It loads the 13' well. Their Short Head 8wt spey is on sale for $25, online. Shorter heads are easier to cast and to learn two-handed casting with. I think it would fit your need. RB
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Rob, Most of my summer fishing is on a 100cfs creek up in th emountains. I built a Forecat 6'6"2pc 2wt several years ago, specifically for it. I used the Jann's Netcraft all cork with 2 ring seat/handle kit. It was one of those rods I took on every creek outing......until I built Dan Crafts SIG III 6'10" 3pc, 1wt. Its a step up in castability and blank quality. I have a Rio Pocket
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I've built a dozen or so, with most recently the 13' spey. I put it in the hands of a guide on a steelhead trip. He thought I bought it at the local $$$ fly shop RB
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I built a 11'6" spey rod for use with standard WF6F line. The length is perfect when sitting low in the water! Using 2 hands all day is easier than one! Send me an email if you want more info. RB
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Nice one Steve! Its one thing to fish a rod we build and enjoy our great work, but to get feedback like that from a customer/friend is gravy! I too enjoy coming up with new setups to fit unique fishing situations. Around the NW there is some really great dry-fly steelheading in the fall. Most of the fish are in the 6-10lb range. Skating #2 bombers at dawn and dusk is a thrill. Using a pontoo
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Stephen, I have built many rods on these blanks. Most of the rods I fish with, I built with these blanks. For the price, and the service you get from Bob, you shouldnt pass them up. RB
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On my Forecast 13' spey, I used a double foot #16, #12(tamer) and #10, and then single foot #8's (I used 6) out to the tip. RB
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Got my 13' 8/9wt at Hook & Hackle, along with the Pac Bay preformed spey cork set. Great blank for the price! RB
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811, thinned. 5 parts 811, 1 part alcohol. goes on clear, dries fast....
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Shannon, I just finished a green Rainforest with goldenrod A. I had the same experience with my first coat of FCLite. Unwrapped everything and started over. To remedy on the re-finish, and after doublechecking all my thread wraps were well packed, I drowned my thread with 811, and removed the excess as it dripped off the underside of the wraps. Worked like a charm. Very little overall col
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I feel your pain brothers! You know somethin's up when your kids are too quiet! My 2-year-old son thought it might be fun to sneak downstairs, into 'my area' and chase the cat with the tip section of a 2pc 7'6" 4wt RX7. Im sure you can picture the rest.... Tip caught the carpet, and the butt section ended up in his ribs. A quick snap probably kept us out of the ER. Needless to say th
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