I'll second Stans suggestion. I get my trim in place, pack it tight, and leave 2" tag ends, which can be pulled again...and agan, to snug it down. Then just a small drop of CP on the overlap, and move on to the next wrap. When all your trims are done, start back at the first one you did, and carefully cut the tag ends. RB
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How important is it to have the first guide (nearest reel seat) a double foot guide? I'm finalizing guide placement on a 9' 2pc surf rod, and it dawned on me that I might want to have a double foot guide as my first, as all my guides (concept spacing) are single foots. Another issue is that I have no guides on the butt section. All are on the tip section. Is there anything wrong with that
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Schneider's Rod Shop (Sponsor to the left) has PacBay plum 9' 3wts ~$40
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Adam, Just did it last week for the first time and it turned out perfect. Follow the directions! Got this article by searching on this board. RB Page 1 of2 Kate Davidson From: "robert meiser" <[email protected]> To: "Kate Davidson" <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 8:36 AM Subject: Language for Siskiyou Aviary's Seminar sectio
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I think most place the double leg towards the butt of the rod. RB
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I've got a 4' 14wt pack rod in the works, made out of a Graffalloy Blue X-Stiff Driver shaft ...for those high mountain tuna. It should cast well in those tight spots too. Having a little trouble finding the spine, and a fly top with a sz 18 tube..... RB
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Billy, I got the Escali Liberta Digital Pocket Scale - 300g x 0.1g (1/10th gram), from Topline. Its tiny, about the size of a palm pilot. Worth the $20 I paid for it. Wieghs up to 10.58 oz. Its great for measuring guides in bunches, cork, seats, and blanks, etc....but having one that mesures single guides (1/100th of a gram) would be more useful. I think you may need to get 2 scales
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SA's old Ultra3 AST lines for 5wt and under. I stocked up when shops were blowing them out for the new lines. I have 4 years on a few of them....still floating high with 2 cleanings a year. (I havent tried any of their newer AST trout lines, but have heard only good things.) Just returned my Orvis Wonderline Superfine WF1F for a Rio Pocketwater WF1F.....we'll see how it fishes. On my 6wt
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John, I used the RSF's. Ordered them directly from REC. I couldnt really tell a casting distance difference with a #10 as a stripper, but then again, this is a 1wt, and a 30'+ cast would be long for my applications. Definitely use an all cork seat/grip if you want wt under 1.5oz With my REC CRNS seat, i'll be pushing 1.5oz total. The PLRN cork seat is a good lightweight option. RB
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I used the REC RSF recoils 3,2,1,1,1,1,1, top. and a sz 8 stripper I am wrapping mine with gudebrod Reg A gold, and 2 turn trim bands in white and black. The gold thread matches the curly koa wood of my seat and jungle cock nails pretty well. My winding check was a 16/64ths. Have fun with "the One" RB
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Yes, you're on the right track. Make 3 to 4, 1/2" arbors, prep your blank well for a good adhesion, and use plenty of epoxy. (Its less time consuming/frustrating to clean up overflow than to have to cut off a loose grip and start over.) If your winding check still doesnt cover the handle ID 'gap', wrap that area closest to the handle with whatever thread you plan to use, and then pick
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Got mine in the mail today. Black. Worth EVERY penny! Nice fit and finish. Weighed in at 2.34oz bare, and 3.26oz with 50yds 12# backing and an orvis Superfine WF1F(90') (will weigh slightly less with the 80' Rio pocketwater I have on order.) One wish......spare spools!!!!! RB
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Yeah...what a deal! Too good to pass up.... RB
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I would think to get a 7'6" 4pc, 4 or 5wt and drop the butt section. That would give you a 3pc blank in a length you desire. I donk know if my thinking is correct, but you'd have to ask around with those with CC Data expertise to see if those 3 sections would throw a 3wt line.....I think it might work well Janns Netcraft has an all cork seat/grip with sliding bands that would be really
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Thanks.... i'll start with the DVD! RB
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Im interested in starting to turn my own reel seat inserts. I have access to a decent lathe, and may get one of my own if I really get into it. What are the essential tools needed to get started and what woods would be the easiest to learn with? I've come across a pretty interesting site with many burls to turn (future projects in mind already!) Thanks for your input. RB
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Presently I am finishing my FRSIII61013....and I cant wait to fish it. I would second any recommendation of this blank. Another option, at about a third of the cost, would be a 7' Tigereye 3/4. It fishes well with a WF3F. It has been one of my favorite creek rods for the past few years. I have a feeling it will spend a little more time in the trunk this year. Good luck! RB
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Thanks everyone! Gearing up for the surf around Cabo in May! RB
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Thanks....good to know. I have NCP A white to use for the underwraps. Next question.... What do you use to hold the guides in place without contaminating the underwrap/lifting fuzzies..etc.? Thanks again! RB
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I have in the works an AmTak gloss black surf blank, in which I would like to use NCP white as the underwrap. (My first rod needing underwraps) I have thought about using a base coat of FC, to 'fix' the underwrap in place, but am worried about not being able to finish the overwraps in a reasonable amount of time to have a good 1st coat-2nd coat bond. I will not be able to 'scuff' this thin lay
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...can extra spools be bought for the UL ? RB
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Lou...you're right....I was quick to post. the UL is only 2.2oz.
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the 2.2oz ~ 2.5" Ultralight is VERY similar to the machined Click/Pawl Pflueger Supreme 1834....which is on @#$%& for ~$50 I have the 'import' version of the 1834 and 3 spools.....my favorite for 2 & 3wt rods. 5 years old and still going strong... RB
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since i quit my white collar job.....im using up my dress shirt collar stays! RB
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stick with low frames, double foot for the trans in sz#12@0, #10@60 , #8@120, and then #7's on out then adjust the transition guides with a loaded rod to keep the best line path and line off the rod. RB
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Yep....what Tom said. Be sure to gently flame your wraps after you've got the finish on in the shape you want. helps level the epoxy and get all those nasty bubbles out from wherever they are hiding.... you can sand down the finish and try another coat of FC Lite. RB
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I planned to use one of REC's smallest and lightest slide band seat on my Sig. III 1wt, but after weighing it in at a whopping 0.57oz, i'm not going to use it. The completed rod would weigh near 1.5 oz. With cork grip, recoil guides, thread, etc., i'm wondering what you all used to keep the weight down in the neighborhood of 1oz? I dont want to use an EVA foregrip. I'm thinking I should bu
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David, 5 days to Seattle.
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Emory, I see where you are going....I may need to measure in rod sectons.... Thanks for the insight.... David, I got the Escali Liberta Digital Pocket Scale - 300g x 0.1g (1/10th gram) RB
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For that noodle rod you might want to look at the new Amtak titan guides.... I have a 10'6" noodle for bobber fishing w/4# test over here in WA for steelies. Just stripped it down and plan to use these hi-frame guides in the re-build. RB
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