The ice approach worked!!! Thanks guys.
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Fell in the Cumberland River a couple of weeks back lost my 4 piece flyrod. A kind sole fished it out of the river next day and mailed it to me about a week later with two of the ferrules stuck (the one nearest the tip and the one nearest the butt). Would welcome any suggestions on how to separate the pieces.
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Being a woodworker, in addition to a rodbuilder, I was blown away by the wood cases by Steve Hoyle and seminar by Mark Crause, I believe it was, at the last Expo. Anybody got any photos, plans, articles, etc. on making wood cases?
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I know this will send shock waves over the chemists, but I have been experimenting with an approach I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere. I add acetone to the FC, 1/3 acetone,1/3 resin, 1/3 hardner which makes it water thin (almost). Apply it with a small squeege bottle you can get at art supply stores eg. Hobby Lobby. Apply it in strips lengthwise down the blank, rotating the blank by hand b
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Yes I have used one, but found that it has several limitations for rodbuilding. One of these is that white is the only color lettering that can be printed on the clear substrate. The main problem is that the multilayered label tape is very thick compared with water slide, or even other sticky back labels of the type supplied with blanks. I found, quite by accident, that after the label is app
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I have been playing around with exterior spar urethane and solvent based polyurethane varnishes as a result of recent interest in bamboo rods. I just completed a MHX flyrod using spar urethane (thinned 60/40 ) on the signature portion of the blank, an area that has been giving me fits with unlevel epoxy finishes. I apply liberally with a small squeeze bottle while slowly rotating the rod manua
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I have been getting fantastic results on unstabilized wood with polyurethane varnish or spar urethane. Sand to 400 grit, or finer, and seal with Sealcoat (dewaxed shellac). Use waterbase poly for a clear finish or regular solvent based poly (thinned 60/40) if some amber tint is permissible. The spar gives an even deeper tint. Dip the reel seat in the finish and let dry for a day suspended i
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I had the same problem. I made a mounting plate of aluminum and turned the motor around so it faces the opposite direction. Works great
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Thanks guys. Decal Connection has been my fall back position. They now have gone away from waterslide, for some reason, and gone to a neat sticky back. I have not had any trouble with any of them so far, but I still miss the water slides which have the "thicknes of smoke". The sticky backs are considerably thicker requiring multiple coats of finish before the edges disappear, each c
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Producing a clean signature section is the most frustrating part of fly rod building. In seems that no matter how hard I try there is always some screwup that requires me to spend more time and effort to deal with than the entire rest of the rod. The latest one(s) is dealing with a bubble that always seems to present itself under the sticky back labels that rod manufacturers offer. Under the
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I would like to turn some flyrod reel seat inserts from fancy burl (amboyna, afzelia, gmelia, kelat, etc) but am concerned about tear out. What should I use to impregnate the burl to avoid this problem? These are cured blanks intended for pen making.
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Screwed up epoxy on the signature section of a 5 wt SC III (again) and had to sand it off. To make matters worse, I got into the colored surface, and it was for a very particular client. I have never painted a rod before and would like some suggestions. Also what color should I look for to approximate the olive color of the SC III?
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Have recently gotten interested in finishing out bamboo rods and have found multiple suggestions to use lacquer as a color preserver. Tried some on a couple of wraps which resulted in near original color rendendition, but have not yet epoxied. Any experience/suggestions out there about lacquer CP?
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Once a year I teach a rodbuilding course in which I allow the students to order a kit of their choice after the first class meeting. During the 2 or 3 week interval it takes to ship the kits, the students practice the elements of rodbuilding using scrap blanks. My source of scrap blanks has dried up and I am seeking another supplier. Most of the students (12 to 15) usually build fly rods, occa
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Tim I can do more than let you look over my shoulder. I have been teaching a rodbuilding class for about seven years at our church in Huntsville. The classes are on Monday evenings and start the first "free" (no Superbowl or NCAA championship) Monday night in Jan., so you are in line for the next one. Most guys, or gals, finish up the first or second week in March. Unlike most ro
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I had exactly the same experience. Frustrated with the results of the Lite, especially on the label section, I initated a research project using different techniques suggested on this forum, in the literature, in the books, and by discussion with "experts". I kept detailed records for over 50 test applications until I gave up in disgust with my inability to get repeatable results, esp
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It sounds like the spots where there is no finish might be "fisheyes" which result from some kind of contamination. On numerous occasions I have solved this problem by placing a drop of Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat dewaxed shellac on the spot, and then sanding level before adding the next coat of epoxy. Shellc is the gold standard of sealers, and the dewaxed version permits adhesion of
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I live in Huntsville, AL and we have a local joke here that if you ask 10 guys which is the best way to Atlanta (about 200 mi distant), you will get about 15 different answers (and, interestingly enough, all will be right!). Once a year I teach a rodbuilding class and I use this analogy for "which is the best way to apply finish". After several years of frustration and trying the &qu
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Thanks. This may be the ticket. I'll give it a try. Jerry Guinn
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Thanks for the tips. My prblem pertains to FLY ROD HANDLES (cork with stablized wood hostels at each end) not reel seats. I have tried some of these tips, specifically running a rat tail file backwards. I'll try some of the others on the one handle I haven't yet wrecked. Jerry Guinn
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Tonight I screwed up two expensive fly rod handles (the fancy ones with colored wooden hosels) trying to enlarge the the center hole. On both handles the hosels split when I was trying to drill them out with a drill or a rat tail file. Any ideas on how to successfully elarge the center hole would be greatfully appreciated. Jerry Guinn
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Shellac is the gold standard sealer in the woodworking business. Get some Zinsser Seal Coat at a big box store. Use a toothpick to apply a small drop in a fisheye, and after about a minute wipe off the excess around the fisheye with a coffee filter. In about an hour lightly sand around the fisheye with fine sandpaper or synthtetic pot scrubber. May need to repeat if the fisheye is a deep pit
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Chuck We have an electronics surplus store here who has (or had) a bunch of 200 RPM motors at give away prices. He is in the process of liquidating his inventory so he may be closed by now. If you are still interested mail me at @knology.net and I'll check it out.
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Mike Your post could have been written by me word for word! After the High Point show I was so frustrated I undertook my own research program to see why I could not replicate the glowing reports about "leveling" that I had been told in talking with experts and that had been posted on this board for at least 5 years. After a dozen or so futile attempts at systematically trying the &
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Try this. Shellac is the goal standard sealer for woodworkers and is compatable with all finishes. Get dewaxed shellac (Zinsser Bulls Eye Sealcoat) at Lowes or Home Depot. I use a toothpick to place a drop in a fisheye. Sand about an hour earlier and add another coat of epoxy. Works evfery time for me.
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Being a woodworker and spending some effort on woodfinishing, I learned that shellac is the gold standard sealant, including silicone contamination. But to be used under epoxy it must have been dewaxed. Dewaxed shellac used to be only available in flakes which must be dissolved in alcohol, but fortunately, it is now readily available at Lowes or Home Depot. Get Zinsser "Seal Coat" wh
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Thanks for the tips guys, but I am having trouble following Billy's sequence of steps. As I am new to this board, and E-mail challanged, how do I get in touch with you? Jerry Guinn
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My other hobby is woodworking and recently I got into woodfinishing big time. Wood finishers have similiar problems with fisheyes. The gold standard for providing a barrier between coats or for sealing off contamination is to use dewaxed shellac. You can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot. It is called "Bulls Eye SealCoat" and is made by Zinsser. Just put a drop on the eye, sand in abo
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I understand that an initial coat of finish is required on a blank before applying a water slide decal. Oherwise, the decal will show up as a shadow underneath the final coat of finish. Sometimes a bubble or dust speck will show up in this initial coat which will require sanding out. Also, the initial coat will require roughing up with sandpaper or steel wool, etc if too much time has elapsed
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Billy I spent the last hour typing in a solution to your problem and then lost it because I couldn't get past the login. give ma a call at 256 8817004. I can talk faster than I can type. Jerry Guinn
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