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Finish over decals
Posted by:
Brian Clark
(---.no.shawcable.net)
Date: December 05, 2011 11:06AM
For whatever reason, I am having issues getting a smooth finish over my decals and my frustration level is increasing. I use FC Lite for my guide wraps but should I be using FC Hi-build for the decals? I would appreciate any advice.
Brian Re: Finish over decals
Posted by:
Herman Knott
(---.gci.net)
Date: December 05, 2011 11:32AM
You need to put CP over them first then all will go great. Re: Finish over decals
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 05, 2011 11:47AM
You will probably need several coats I do mine after the guides are done A little Baby Sitting is in order
A coat of finish Let dry Decal Then I find that works better then CP is a quick mask and spray with a clear two medium coats let dry over night Then a heavy coat of the light while turning Stop the turner and let excess drip off using the brush to wipe When set another coat till I like it It also helps to brush Long Wise to even out the finish a little Bill - willierods.com Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/05/2011 12:02PM by bill boettcher. Re: Finish over decals
Posted by:
Brian Clark
(---.no.shawcable.net)
Date: December 05, 2011 07:55PM
Appreciate the input. I think I've found the main source of my issue. After mixing the finish and pouring onto tinfoil, I heated it a bit more with a butane flame. I expect this additional heat was causing the finish to set up much faster causing the grief.
My attempt today was without the additional heat, applying the finish heavy, brushing lengthwise and wicking off the excess sag. Looks great. Won't make that mistake again. Good grief, that was a major brain F***. Re: Finish over decals
Posted by:
Gerald Guinn
(---.knology.net)
Date: December 06, 2011 10:07PM
I know this will send shock waves over the chemists, but I have been experimenting with an approach I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere. I add acetone to the FC, 1/3 acetone,1/3 resin, 1/3 hardner which makes it water thin (almost). Apply it with a small squeege bottle you can get at art supply stores eg. Hobby Lobby. Apply it in strips lengthwise down the blank, rotating the blank by hand between each application. After the blank is covered, let it set for a few minutes and then wick off the sag with a coffee filter. Rotate the blank 180 deg and repeat the process. Keep at it until there are no more sags. I then put the blank on a dryer motor in a box heated to about 95 deg. The hardnening time sees to take a little longer, but the final physical properties seem to be no different than for unthinned epoxy. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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