Here's an example of some pretty ugly work done by a custom builder, whom I will not name. I couldn't believe someone that calls themselves a custom builder would let this leave thier shop with their name on it. Evidently they didn't own a thread packer or a pair of glasses.
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On the left are the wraps with color preserver that has dried for 12 hours. On the right are the same colors with nothing on them, straight up thread.
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This is from a brand new spool of thread and I'm getting fuzzies. I've played with the tension, but it's coming directly from the spool. This is the second rod I've built to please critique.
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I've been trying to layout approximately where the guides will set given different guide I've been looking at. The bottom one is using American Tackle A-frame and standard guides, each dimension from the tip is labeled with an A for A-frame and S for standard. The top one is using Batson Entp. VS3 guides and corresponding locations and ring sizes.
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The fabrication of open water rods is well documented and quite frankly easy to find information on. Ice rod blanks on the other hand seem to be a mystery to me on how they are made. As an avid ice angler and hobby rod maker i would be thrilled if someone could shed some light on this I would certainly appreciate it.
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Looking for a 36" medium solid carbon ice blank, but coming up with very little in the supplier category. Anyone know of one? I see Mudhole is an option, but I want to make sure I'm not missing any other possibilities.
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Got it.
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After seeing your pictures it makes more sense. You're turning between centers, then coming back and drilling your hole to the desired size, holding one end in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and the other end in a homemade jig to center the stock for the drill. Very interesting.
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Roger thank you for the response, but I should have been a little clearer on my question. Say I were to use an acrylic or stabilized wood blank for the handle in leu of a cork or EVA handle. How would one approach that scenario?
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How would I go about a handle for an ice rod that only has an 1/8" blank diameter and still end up with a nice tight fit on the foregrip and butt? The insert for the reel seat could be 1/4" and take up the diff with some sort of spacing material.
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I have a new to me lathe, but am now struggling to figure out which work holding accessories I need to produce obviously rod handles (more so spinning / casting), pens and bottle stoppers and possibly some game calls. I will mention that I do NOT have a drill press. I have been looking at a 4 jaw chuck that would have optional jaws to use for boring (in conjunction with a MT drill chuck) and ot
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15, 6, 4
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Chuck you are absoulutely correct. I had a wonderful conversation with Doug this afternoon and he truly is a class act. And Doug, I will be in trouble with my wife as I won't want to stop turning.
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WOW!!!! Doug I don't know what to say, other than check your email.
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That's exactly one of the lathes I was looking at.
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Okay, I'm at that point in my rodbuilding journey that it's time for a lathe, but which one? I'd love to have a Jet, but that's a bit on the high end of what I want to spend on just a machine. I've been looking at a Grizzly or a Central Machinery (Harbor Freight). The machines look identical, as if they were made in the same factory under different brands. Has anyone had any experience with t
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Thank you for the responses. I'll have to give both a try. I'll sand one down for my own rod so if it breaks it's not as big of a deal. Granted the best way is to purchase a nice blank, but I can't see spending that much for an ice blank. I would imagine that blanks are ground down at a manufacturer for ice blanks. Can anyone give more insight on that process? Merry Christmas Everyone
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What's the best way to cut it down? In the past I've wrapped a piece of tape around the blank and cut with a fine tooth hacksaw.
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I need to make an UL a little stiffer any tips on figuring out where to trim the tip back to? The only thing I can think of is to tape a piece of line to the blank with a lure or weight and see what feel I can get from it. The blank tip diameters I have are 0.035" with a .125" butt, but for smaller walleye (less than 17") I need something with a little more backbone to get a go
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Just moved to Spirit Lake and was wondering if there are any other hobby builders in the area? I'm trying to make new friends in a new town.
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First question is on AmTack guides GTRLA, I need a guide that is about 2.0625" and one then about 1.125", what ring size would that be? Second question, I'm wanting to build a 9' 5wt on a Croix blank, but I have never fly fished before. What guide size and setup would you suggest? I'm in the camp that the smallest / lightest items to do the required task is the best. Thanks in
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I like the build of the prokote, but found it didn't release bubbles as well as TM lite does. Just my experience. Both are very good products.
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Midwest Rod and Reel get my nod. Their UL blanks I don't need a spring bobber for, fast action nice backbone solid graphite, not to mention a nice price point. They're also a sponsor of this site.
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I was away from the computer for the weekend on a 2 day float trip with my Dad. Had a fantastic weather for this time of year, caught a lot of walleye, but none over 16". Over 20 miles of river in 2 days, I'm tuckered out. Anywho, thank you all for all the fabulous tips. I'll be sure to use them on my next go round, which will be soon. I have a bit of abolone to put on a split grip.
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I just have a homemade rotisserie motor attachment that I can put on my homemade wrapping jig which I set on a table in room of my house that doesn't get used too much. But in the same respect it's getting a little colder here in de nort country (okay Iowa isn't that far north) so the furnace kicking in every so often may have a lot to do with it. But was curoius to hear what others do in simil
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Is the only way to keep dust particles out of finsh to build a drying cabinet? I just finished a rod for myself and those pesky dust particles really hose up an utherwise very good finish. I don't make a lot of rods, but the ones I do i try to make better than the last and I'm striving to make them "perfect", or at least as close as I can. What do you do?
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Contact Tom Kirkman at Rodmaker. He's a good guy and would be able to tell you.
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Thank you to all for your input.
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I've been using the Batson micro's on a couple of builds and I have another couple coming up, but was wondering if I was missing something with the other brands. I've been with Batson's mostly because of their price point and reputation. The only thing that I wish they had were braced tip tops in the micro line (I don't recall one anyway). What are your personal preferance in micros and why
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Sweet. Thanks.
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