I typically wait 6 hours between coats of TM Lite, but was wondering if I can wait 24 hours without issues between coats?

Wade,
I have gone 24 hours numerous times between coats of finish without any issues. If you go longer than that then lightly scuff the finish without effecting the threads and then recoat with finish. You will be fine.

Sweet. Thanks.

I think yhou have up to three days before you have to scuff anythihg. You can do a search to get that info.

Why bother scuffing?

24 hours will be no problem. Just apply directly and without concern.

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24 is FINE, do that all the time. No scuff as Billy stated.

DR

I mean why bother scuffing at all, regardless of the time? Honest question - an dI know the Manu recommends it. It's common for me to put finish on an UW or Dec WRap, and sometimes weks ++ later I wrap a guide, or a week later put another coat on the Dec WRap.

The reason is that when you apply a second application of finish within a certain time period, you end up with a single coat - the two meld into one, sort of. After that time period, however, a second application usually results in two separate coats or layers, one on top of the other. The second one may not always fully adhere to the first, and over time can peel away. Thus, preparing a water-break-free surface on the first layer allows the second one to properly adhere.

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Like Tom says, I would not paint a car with out cleaning it first - then giving it a wet sand , before any additional coats of - any material is applied. It has to adhere - stick. Epoxy fully cures in - what 7 plus days,

I could think that if the finish is thinned with some thing that would - maybe - soften the old finish and help it to ad hear to it.

But how hard is it to scuff If it peals - your bad..

Bill - willierods.com

TOm, if that is the case shouldn't we be scuffing the blank as well? Or is it because the blank is coated with a non-epoxy urethane or whatever?

The epoxy will bond to the thread - that's enough. There is no reason for it to bond to the blank itself. However, if you want to do this, you certainly could, but good luck getting a guide wrap off if you need to replace a guide. The difference between epoxy on an unprepared surface and one where a water-break-free surface is present is night and day.

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Depending on how fast the finish epoxy usually sets up can make a difference whether you need to scuff or not (finish on finish here). Fast setting epoxy's like Threadmaster Reg build, I'll scuff after 3+ days. Slower finish like Aftcote you can wait 2 weeks and be fine without scuffing unless you're in a hot area or use heat to cure.

I never scuff the rod blank where thread will be..... and I always scuff the blank where thread WON'T be: decal areas, marbling area's, epoxy ramps, and so on.

I know for a fact that finish applied to a rod blank area that is not cleaned and scuffed WILL eventually FAIL and peel. Tried it myself on my own rod, and it was a brown StCroix that came with "soft" paint way back when. Plain mild Alcohol would take off the brown, but finish eventually delaminated & turned loose from the blank over time.

DR