I typically wait 6 hours between coats of TM Lite, but was wondering if I can wait 24 hours without issues between coats?
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What I've found that works well for me is to shave little pieces of tip top glue off the stick and drop them into the tip top tube. I'll even pack them in with a toothpick or something to make sure there's enough in there. Then I'll heat the tube and slide it onto the rod. If it's not alined quite right simply reheat and adjust.
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Thank you all for your help!!!
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Well that's what common sense told me that I could use SF. What do you guys "typically" use for guide sizes? I'll probably use 7's for the running, but this transition sizing is where I have some uncertainty.
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Okay, so I looked through the "Guides" CD and through numerous posts here and didn't find an answer. But first a little background. I'm looking to rebuild a MB783 casting rod, several of the guide rings are shot. What I'm looking to do is a revolver spiral. My question is can I use single guides for the running guides or even the transition guides. Or should I use all double foot g
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I knew I should have re-read that article before I said anything. Thanks for the clarrification, because that does make sense. Shortening or lengthening is what will change the action of a rod. (I'm still new at this.)
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First off, THANK YOU to all that have replied. Let me give a little more background. Right now I'm located about 675 miles (I mapquested it) from the rod in question, otherwise I would have done the CCS calculations myself and then requested opinions for a similar blank. Now that being said, I know that adding guides is going to make the CCS figures different from that of a bare blank. But
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My best friend is looking for a new rod and loves his Loomis SJ783 IMX blank. Does anyone have CCS data for this blank or built rod? Also, are there any other blanks that have a comparable CCS results? Feel free to email me if you do not wish to post here. I did look on the CCS Data Site, but didn't find the blank listed.
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As always, wonderful replies, thank you.
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I've been wanting to try an epoxy ramp for a while. I saw a gentleman do a demo on it once and he used Threadmaster 5 min gel. That seemed to work pretty good, but I can't find anyone that has it. I thought about the Devcon 5 min epoxy, but my experience with that I think it would be to runny to stay where I want it. What do you use for your ramps?
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Rich, I've found that in the UL that the Croix blanks are VERY similar to that of the Thorne Bros in action and power. But the MRR UL blanks are a little lighter in power than the Croix, which I think is a benifit to them. Now saying that if you're going to put a spring bobber on, then the Croix would be a better choice because it is a little stiffer and will support the added weight better.
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I think most everyone has had this problem at one time or another and each have found a different way to cure it. I've found what works for me is to have a level rod, apply along the lenght of the rod on the (butt to tip) in the signature area, apply a thin coat (it's easier to make 2 good thin than 1 bad), remove any excess. You'll find a method that works for you, it may take a little trial
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I've made several rods both on Croix blanks and Midwest Rod and Reel blanks all were UL. I wanted a rod that would have a light enough tip to detect the light bites, yet enough backbone to get a good hook up. For my preferance I like the MRR blanks. I will note that I stopped by Thorne Bros and took a look their rods and noted they don't use TT, only another guide. I've also found that by not
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My best friend is looking for a little repair work to replace a tip top (possible grooved ring), I would do it but the shipping would be cost prohibitive. Is there anyone in the Clarksville, TN area to help him out? I didn't know where else to post this.
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I've ordered blanks from Midwest Rod and Reel and have nothing but praise for their customer service, promptness, and value. Not that I've ordered from a lot of suppliers, but why change a good thing.
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I'm looking for spool face dia and spindle "height" distance from a tabletop (reel foot) for an Abu Garcia C102i spinning reel. Thanks.
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Thank you for the reply and explination. I am using a color preserver from a reputable company, specifically Lamar. But now I know a little more on what to expect when I use CP with the light colors. I'll stay clear of the Elmer's.
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So this is my first hand at using color preserver so I'm working with the learning curve here. It was my impression that color preserver would not change the color of the thread once dry, but my test wraps look darker than that of the original thread. Is this normal? I had one gentleman tell me that all he uses is Elmers glue thinned down with water for his preserver. I don't know how fle
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Well the winning bidder was understanding of the situation and he's a local guy. I'll be rewrapping those two wraps and delivering it to him in the near future. Thank you all for your input. I'm going to chalk this one up to a huge learning experience.
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I don't know if I could get two coats built up quick enough if i were to cut it off and start over. I guess if all else fails tell the winning bidder that I'm not satified with the craftsmanship and I'd be happy to deliver or send the finished rod to them. (That's Plan C) Plan A - Bake it and see if I can get the lint out quick and recoat. See how it looks. If not so good see Plan B. P
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Thanks Jim. Just so I'm on the same page as you and understand what's going on. By "baking" it I'm essentially speeding up the curing process. Then I can somehow remove the lint (which there seems to be quite a bit of) and recoat from there.
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Okay, so I put the second coat of TM lite on about 6 hours ago and my 2.5 year old decides, "Hey cool looking rod Dad, what happens if I touch it?". Well, I don't know if that was his exact thought, but I have big problems now. This rod I'm donating to a DU banquet and it's tomorrow. So how do I get the finger print and what appears to be either lint or cereal dust out of the wrap?!!
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Jann's Netcraft has cork rings with 1/8" hole ID. As I type this they're in transit, so I cannot attest to the quality of the cork.
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I didn't have any information for the blank. All the guy knew that I got it from is that it's 6'6" and he thought it was a medium power fast action. I found the formula in one of the tutorials on the CCS info site. I must have overlooked it earlier today when I was looking for it.
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I'm working on a spinning rod and decided to add the ERN and AA information to the rod when I apply my signature and other information. Anywho, this is my first attempt at finding the CCS info so bear with me. I followed the instructions in issue 12-4 and came up with 189 cents and an AA of 72 (I even used the spaghetti). I have a couple of questions. First the chart stops at 173 cents, so wh
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Tom thank you. I know that seems like a pretty silly question to those that have done this for quite some time, but being a rookie I didn't know.
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I have an Ultra light production rod that is several years old that the reel foot doesn't fit the seat. With that in the back of my mind I'm looking at making a light rod with a size 20 reel seat(ergonomics), but I want to make sure that the reel foot fits it too. Looking at using a Pflueger size 30 or 25 reel. What's the going rule of thumb on this?
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Okay, next question. What's the best way to cut the scrap blank?
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Thanks Tom!!
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I was doing a little house cleaning today and noticed that the butt of one of the blanks I have is cracked. It's a 6'6" M blank and is cracked about 3" starting at the butt. How should I ensure that it doesn't crack anymore? I had 2 thoughts: 1) Wrap it with thread proior to putting on the handle. 2) Use a scrap peice of blank and put an insert
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