I need to make an UL a little stiffer any tips on figuring out where to trim the tip back to? The only thing I can think of is to tape a piece of line to the blank with a lure or weight and see what feel I can get from it.

The blank tip diameters I have are 0.035" with a .125" butt, but for smaller walleye (less than 17") I need something with a little more backbone to get a good hookset. I have heavier blanks in the medium category, but my "customer" doesn't want that heavy of a blank. These are solid carbon blanks.

Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas.

Wade,

Attach a set of guides with wire ties, including the tip. On a blank that thin, you'll be able to slide around the guides a fair amount to dial it in. Likely no more than a half inch or so off of the tip will help. It doesn't take a whole lot of trimming to stiffen up the tip of a rod.

Another thing I do is just place my hand at various distances from the tip and flex the rod. Mark the rod once you have an idea of where you want the tip top to be.

Even then once you decide where you want your tip top, take your time and trim it back slowly, checking often. It's much easier to take more off of the tip than it is to put it back after you make the cut.

Joe

What's the best way to cut it down? In the past I've wrapped a piece of tape around the blank and cut with a fine tooth hacksaw.

Always wrap with tape before trimming. I've had success with both the edge of my hook file and using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel. As you know a fine toothed saw can work well also. I don't know that one way is better than another.

Joe

Wade,
Your entire problem goes back to the blank itself.

Depending on the blank, you may really not be successful in trimming enough from the blank to leave enough left for the type rod that you want.

If you really have an ultra light and want to get towards a medium action rod, you may have to go half way down the blank to have a stiff enough action.

But, if you think that you can get the rod tip action you want in your current blank, just feet the power of the blank starting from the tip back. When you get to the point where you feel that the blank is stiff enough for your work, mark the blank.

I would tend to think that under normal circumstance you would really need a light or even medium action blank to get what you need.

But if you can get what you need in your current blank and have marked it, simply use a dremel tool, or other abrasive tool and wack it off with the abrasive wheel.

Really no need to put tape or anything else on the blank. The abrasive wheel will cut it cleanly with no shatter, or lose fibers from the blank. This is assuming that the abrasive wheel is spinning at a nice speed like 25000 rpm.

Take care
Roger

Wade,
Another option, that may actually be a better option would be to use one of your medium action blanks and grind it down to the required diameter and action.

It is really quite straight forward to do this. Simply chuck it into a lathe or variable speed drill and use a reasonable speed and sand paper to get the diameter and action that you want. You don't want to spin the blank too fast - both to avoid whipping of the blank and also to avoid burning the blank from the sanding heat. Start with about 100 grit, and as you get close to the required action and power, go to finer grades finishing off with 400 or 600 paper.

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Of course perhaps the very best option of all would be to buy another blank with the perfect action.

There are some excellent blanks on the market with the perfect custom action solid carbon blanks that you would like to have. These are sold by Thorne Bros in Blaine, MN.

Your choice.

Roger

yea

Then if not experienced in doing this the blank breaks cause too much was taken off and the blank became weak and failed

Cut it After playing with it to see where to cut measure twice and cut once

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
Have courage. Just use a light touch, don't overheat the rod and you will be in good shape.

Good luck
REW

p.s.
The reason that I suggested grinding a heavier blank is that many ice rod blanks have a very long section of very flexible tips. If this is the case with the particular blank in question, the trimming of the blank to a suitable power may result in a blank that is too short.
That is also why I suggested, that the best idea was to buy a new blank having the correct action and power.

Thank you for the responses. I'll have to give both a try. I'll sand one down for my own rod so if it breaks it's not as big of a deal. Granted the best way is to purchase a nice blank, but I can't see spending that much for an ice blank.

I would imagine that blanks are ground down at a manufacturer for ice blanks. Can anyone give more insight on that process?

Merry Christmas Everyone!!!

Wade,
You can go to an on line searh for suppliers of fiberglass and graphite rod products.
These suppliers use computer driven grinding and sanding machines to sand down the rods to get the taper that is needed for particular rods.

As with anything, some are better than others. Some have better specifications to grind from than others.

Good luck
Roger