I think the testing period on my 5 pce light spin rod is well and truly over. This barramundi measured 30 inches, weighed around 10 lbs. Taken on an extended All Star 2-6 lb spin rod that I made into a travel rod. Fished 8 lb braid on my Shimano Biomaster 1000.
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81 cm barramundi taken from a local bridge, on 6 lb braid. I had to take a swim to land this one. Insane? Yes (bridge is 15 ft off the water).
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Here's the latest beast subdued by my custom SJ6400. It's a 4.5 kilo golden trevally that took me 12 minutes to land on 4 lb braid.
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Owen's next effort with the new stick. Successfully extracted this 47 cm snapper from it's hideout in a rock wall. Caught from the shore!!
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Owen's little painting of a viperfish attacking a baitfish adorns the split in his reargrip. Cork ends have little checks of metallic green and gold to match the guide wraps.
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My PB queenfish, taken on my little 3 piece Loomis GL2 SJR6400. 90 cm total length,80 to the fork of the tail.
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Same seat, 90 degrees to other view to show shape at sides. Basically only the hood pocket projects above the flat section of the cork.
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Shaped the cork to a curved taper from OD of thread barrel to OD of rear hood. 18 mm to 21 mm, to match a size 16 skeleton seat. The resulting "hump" mimics the IPS setup. Fills the hand better than a standard 16, and is very comfortable.
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The split grip assembly on my personal weapon. EVA button foregrip and EVA buttcap. Cork is composed of rings cut from cork tiles.
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Metallic green trimmed with metallic gold. Forhan locking wrap used on all guides. Sorry about the blurry pic: bo macro mode on camera.
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Original guides, recycled and respaced for better casting and line flow. BYAG Alconites. 30, 16, 10, 8 fly, 6 's out to tip. Cone of flight looking through 30,16,10
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Only a little 'un, but the rod tamed this 1.25 kilo GT on 4 lb Fireline in next to no time.
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My mate Owen Li with the rebuilt Nitro. Matched to a Daiwa Capricorn 1500. He loves it: the fish don't!
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Handle assembly on Owen's rod.
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This is the original aluminium buttcap on the rebuilt Nitro. Pretty scratched up: originally a champagne anodized finish.
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I use mine for all the above. However I find that trimming reel seats generates a bit too much heat with the cut-off wheels, and the plastic melts. Messes up the discs.
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No need for super strength Araldite. Going to require too much heat for removal if you need to replace the tip. You have a nice snug fit, so hot melt adhesive or 5 minute epoxy for heavier duty rods would be sufficient.
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No need for super strength Araldite. Going to require too much heat for removal if you need to replace the tip. You have a nice snug fit, so hot melt adhesive or 5 minute epoxy for heavier duty rods would be sufficient.
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0.294 inches = 18.8/64. So a 19 tube, approx 7.5 mm. 0.328 inches = 20.99/64. So a 21 tube, approx 8.5 mm. 0.808 blank diameter will be a tight fit with a size 20 seat. A size 22 seat will need a thin arbor. 22mm is 0.866 inches. Your 0.848" seat will be fine.
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More than strong enough Ben. Ensure you have a nice, solid, full length arbor for the heavier build.
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In Hardloy, the single footers are designated BOG.
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Knife blade held 90 degrees to the rod blank. Scrape the finish off. Tedious but prevents accidental slicing into the rod. Sanding runs the risk of going too deep and also getting into the outer layers of the rod blank.
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Both the IPS and VSS seats are very good and comfortable seats. The hardware mounts into the grip and it is all glued together. A well fitting setup will be snug and very secure.
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Braid actually floats. Braid usually overtests. Ratings are approximated to allow for reduction in strength when knotted.
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The big problem with trying to fish 50% of the test class is that you leave very little room for error, drag spikes, etc. If the fish gets a length of line out then you have line drag to contend with as well. You will benefit from the longer, softer rod, a lighter drag setting or just backwinding. Stay very close to the fish. 1kg is a very unforgiving line class. Limited hook setting power, lo
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You will not like the end results if you run swivels through your ceramic guides.
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As has been pointed out before, the quicker you complete a job (ie the better and more efficient you get), the less you earn at an hourly rate.
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Use a 3/4 inch i.d. grip, and cut it to the length you need. Drill and ream a cap from either a solid disc, or a slice from a smaller grip to close it off. Glue the two together with contact cement.
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Black frame, it would be a BKBAG. T signifies titanium frame.
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Not so much of an issue when you only need to enlarge the i.d. slightly, but it is better to err on the slightly larger side of caution. I always ask for the vendor to size the checks according to where they will sit. This is dependent on grip sizing and placement, so mock up your grip on some threaded rod and note the lengths from the butt.
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