Those 2 guides are pretty much the same, except one is a heavier framed guide. By the same token, the M will weigh a bit more. Don't let the designation "light" and "heavy" trick you: the light frames are plenty strong enough for light to medium inshore saltwater work.
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I wouldn't go about it that way. An unglued grip will be loose on the blank and can spin/slide. It also won't flex with the blank. You'd be better off getting the right handle sorted and gluing it in place. Either that, or cut part of the handle, square it up, and glue a short cork grip piece (prefab) ahead of it and shape it to the full wells. You could build up the half wells into a full wel
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That blank is a great light saltwater blank. It is a touch heavier than what you're after. I wish there were more travel rods in the UL (2-6), L (4-8) and ML (4-10) line classes.
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I have been doing the Ergo-Skeleton using 16, 17 and 18 skeleton hardware for a few years now. Essentially it is the same as the SBSS (nice name), but uses both bits of the skeleton seat. You could also knock one up using a Super Sticker, or the sliding ring as shown in the SBSS pics. For those that grip right over the reel (two fingers either side of the stem), the swell that fills the palm i
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Black and silver under, and a black over wrap.
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Cool! I emailed Todd and Bob a few hours ago about those!
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Just out of curiosity Lane, what was the AA for that blank?
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Your guess is as good as mine, and my Japanese is as good as yours.
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In the run-up to Japan's fishing tackle trade shows, Daiwa JP have released 2 rod models sporting carbon fibre guides, a Morethan Branzino model (saltwater spinning) and a Presso model (UL/ trout spinning). They are calling it their Air Guide System, AGS. They look really hot!!! May be a while before we see these ones. A glimpse at the future maybe?
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Split grips look good, reduce weight, are cheaper to put together. Reducing tip weight is very important in balancing a split grip rod, as the reduced material can necessitate adding a lot of weight. However, I am gonna have to disagree with the hook keeper bit. Looks like a good place to put a keeper, a little out of the way, etc..... BUT, I think that is only the ideal spot if you want to ho
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The 'ergo-skeleton" I use most commonly is is exactly the same as the SBSS. I use skeleton hardware or just cut down a DPSM/DPSD seat. Installed downlocking, the insert is the same diameter as the fixed hood, and at the other end curves smoothly to the diameter of the tube, allowing me to trim the threaded barrel down and use a insert sized to match the reel foot. Fully cinched down the movi
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I don't like skeletonised grips on spinning rods for that reason. They do not fill the hand. More importantly, they do not fill the PALM of the hand. Mike, your photo with the Minima has nthing in the palm, just the "ball" of the rear grip and fixed hood under the heel of the hand. Ergonomic skeleton, IPS, VSS, SBS all pointing in the right direction in my opinion, and now I have se
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Try upgrading your Acrobat reader. Files created with newer versions of Acrobat often have such problems with older versions of the program.
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I wish I could get my hands on another. I had loads of fun with mine, and a 7'6", 6 piece, fast 5/6 wt. is a great rod to carry just about anywhere. Good luck with the build: it's a very nice blank, but a touch sensitive to heat if you have to change a tip. I broke mine landing a nice barramundi.
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The rod is a factory build, not a custom blank, hence the GL2 is not granite, nor GL3 mahogany. Not very clear on the blank colour, but the thread looks like garnet. The factory GL2 SJR782 is listed as "@#$%&", which I think is a blue colour. The rod may be an older model. It is also available in GLX, IMX and GL3. The GL3 is matte black, and pretty sure the picture does not show a GL
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I've done just that on a Cabelas Stowaway in the same rating. It came out at 7'6", still fast. I overlined with a 6 wt line and it was quite happy at shorter range work. I liked the short pack length as well. The trouble with looking for a new blank is that you won't find too many short rods with less than 20" sections, or more than 4 pieces. I'd go right ahead. As mentioned, it wil
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Flex Coat pilot bit. Try the reverse bit.
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Pretty sure I have mentioned this on here before, but raid the kitchen and grab a bottle brush. Blank scratching days over! I also trimmed the bristles on mine to stiffen them. A quick one-two after tapping and blowing out the grip/ring, and any loose grit is swept out.
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Look forward to seeing more models, including more 2 piece and travel rods.
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You can try filling the gap with epoxy by carefully drilling into the cork and injecting epoxy glue in there. Spin the cork to spread it around. Then use a filler to fill your hole. Another technique mentioned on here uses new rings, pre-reamed to the blank diameter, split and passed over the blank, glued and clamped on. You'd have to remove the old cork and clean it up, but done properly the se
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Cardboard tubes, polyurethane arbors, "graphite" arbors (polyurethane foam with graphite dust mixed in to make them look black), string, fiberglass tubing, tape. Have not seen drywall mesh tape yet.
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Multi-piece rods across a greater range, from UL spinning to heavy stuff. Also, more UL popping blanks.
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You could also glue the arbors into the tube and ream it to fit the blank. Admittedly, the only way around not having that thin film of epoxy inside the tube is to glue one end, then glue the middle, clean the inside, then glue the final arbor from the other end. Once you ream to fit the blank then when you glue that up the epoxy will be on the blank surface. However, the amount is small enough t
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As for supports when using a drill for power, Flex Coat's drill powered grip lathe is a pretty good option. Grizzly's hobby lathe also works well for doing cork, light wood and EVA, but you have to adapt a headstock support to use as a mandrel/rod support. I've seen quite a few setups made similar to the flex coat unit, in a range of materials, with wheels, bearings and o ring cushioning on th
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If the center is not tight, and the ends are, then you may have a problem sliding the grip over the tape. Make your own reamers from scrap sections of rod blanks. I use abrasive strips from a snding belt, spiral wrapped and glued to the blank sections. Batson's Dream reamers take the hassle out of making your own, but the process is the same for replacing the sanding strip.
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Switch rods????
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Short answer, yes. If it fits of course. You want about 4 inches or so of overlap for a solid connection.
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Single foot fly guides on the tip will be more than strong enough for that setup. The rod blank will thank you for the lighter weight than double foots all the way out. Smallest size needed to pass the connections, stripper and one in between. 10 wt short range, nasty stuff, sounds like a snook and poon bush/dock fluff rod, big flies, short and nasty like Eugene suggested, but as I mentioned, I'
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Nope, he means coloured burl cork, at least that's how I read it. Wood grip with coloured burl accents or pieces. A lot of the coloured burl you see is actually composite cork. The binding matrix takes the dye quite well, and this is usually some sort of resin, so yes possibly it could be polished to a shine. However, the cork particles and chunks only take the dye on their surface, so when you
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I'd go with black/white or black/silver underneath, with red nylon, no CP on top for a dark red tiger with good contrast.
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