It will fit. The Conquer series has a fairly normal foot size. However, it will be tight. Consider the DPSM 18 for a better fit and better ergonomics.
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Most frames from Fuji will have "Fuji" stamped on the frame in some area. Rings popping out is not a common occurrence, but riding in a truck bed is one of the worst places to travel with a rod. Vibration and knocking about: quite fortunate to only be dealing with damaged guides.
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Trimming changes the action, not the power. You'll still have a blank rated to 1 1/2 oz, but faster in action. Trimming 6 inches off the tip will be disastrous for the tip "feel" of the rod blank. You'd be better off with a blank rated to the 4 oz you require. It will have enough beef to throw 4 plus bait, and have enough flex to toss lighter sinkers and lures quite easily, plus have th
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NV7, Premiums, all Good blanks with their fortes. Price point is gonna be a big deal. St. Croix also have a wide range of applicable blanks in their ranges of graphite. The SC3 60MF is a very nice blank.
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A lot of variables there. At a guess a Calcutta 200, fishing 30 lb. braid and running possibly 50 or 60 lb. mono/fluoro leader? Is he going to cast or troll? Preferred rod length? These are some of the questions you need to ask him mate. Ask about any preferred barra casting rods he has owned or fished. Also, bait or lure fishing? As a lure caster myself, there is a huge range of lures he is l
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Yep, cheap as. Bunnings is great ain't it? The stuff I got has 6 tiles to a pack in 6 mm. Depending on the grips you make you'll get more than 3 grips. Roger, yes, they weigh a bit more, but the way I see it, and for the great majority of my builds, it is weight in hand and behind the reel. Contributes to balance, looks really hot to boot. Win.
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They look fantastic Col. I have been using tiling for about 7 years now, and have suggested it here a few times. Sourcing uncoated tiles is quite easy. The tiling is available in 4 mm and 6 mm thicknesses. You do see a faint glue line under very close inspection, but it's no big deal. My friends and customers reallyvlike the tight grain and faint striping. Good enough for me that I don't use n
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Reel? Mono, braid or fluoro? I use 1000 size Daiwa reels with 2000 size spools fitted to them. On my last build I used TATSG 16, 10, 8, then TLSG 6's right out to the tip. 6'8" dropshot, 4-10 lb, running 4, 6 and 8 lb. braid. I used 6's to pass leader knots in up to 30 lb fluoro.
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Try 20, 12, 8, then 6's right out to the tip. Like Tom said, the line path will tell you the story. How heavy a line and what size reel are you running?
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Cork floor tiling is nice and firm. Makes a fairly tight grained, rock hard grip. It also looks stunning with 2 coats of Tru-Oil. I get the 1/4 inch stuff.
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You have to very careful filling the crack as any epoxy seeping into the ferrule (squeeze out) will hamper ferrule fit. I would construct a new ferrule, as that sort of crack length is quite large and could propagate.
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Fuji ECSM.
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Issues with smaller guides and leader knots come from not compromising. Learning to tie slimmer profiled connections, or using wind-on systems is often quoted. Reducing leader length so the knot is almost in the running guides on the cast improves things greatly.
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Cobalt blue, no CP.
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Put the pull loop in earlier, and then pull till the thread just gets nipped up tight. Trim the tag short, then pull through completely while pinching down the last wrap with your thumbnail. Should not have any protrusions. As the other guys have mentioned, trimming nubs after the first coat then recoating will solve your problems.
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Heat from friction when power reaming can remove grit from belt made reamers too. Usually off the edges of the strip. For that I have a bottle brush with the bristles trimmed down to stiffen them. Blow the grip out then vigorously clean with the brush. No debris inside, ever since I used it.
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The closer to the point where the user grips the rod, the better in my book.
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That sounds like a bit broken off the end. Tips are generally a closed tube.
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Thanks. I figured between the Aero 17 and the VSS 17, that would be close to an almost perfect ergonomic fit. No cutting required?
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Thanks. I figured between the Aero 17 and the VSS 17, that would be close to an almost perfect ergonomic fit. No cutting required?
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Thanks. I figured between the Aero 17 and the VSS 17, that would be close to an almost perfect ergonomic fit. No cutting required?
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Thanks. I figured between the Aero 17 and the VSS 17, that would be close to an almost perfect ergonomic fit. No cutting required?
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Mike, how do you cut out the pocket for the fixed hood recess? That looks fantastic and super comfortable. With the new Aero 17, I think that may just be what I am looking for.
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Good luck getting the DCX blank. Angler rods and Pacific Composites are no more.
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The LRSG has been discontinued. It has been replaced by the HBSG. I recently rebuilt an LBG rod using these guides.
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Thought so too Craig. Anyway, my 2c. On a jig stick, 80 lb braid, running no leader is suicide. Your 8's will pass wind-ons fine, but if you are knotting leaders, I would agree with the others and run 10's.
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I'd be looking at cork tape as well. Build up the butt like a surf rod.
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Well fitted and engineered ferrules should not suffer from the problem you are having. 1st: clean the ferrules, male and female. 2nd: apply U40 ferrule lube to the male section, and let dry. 3rd: always assemble the rod with the bayonet lock method.
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19 inch sections for a 4 pce blank indicate quite a short rod, just under 6 ft total assembled length. That short a blank in 4 to 6 lb, really leaves you two options, the St. Croix SCII 60LF-4 and the Batson RX6 SB720-4. Both are light action 6 ft 4 piece with approximately 19.5 inch sections.
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I am working up an XP841, and it is an awesome UL saltwater stick. Decided to go the XP after getting excellent performance with the rx7 840 and 841 models. VSS seat, cork grips, TATSG guides, gunmetal and gold wraps, to match up with a Stella 1000. Can't wait.
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