SiC is a silver grey colour. That picture is just the lighting. The frame is either gunsmoke grey or titanium.
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Yes Mark, you can mount pretty much any seat uplocking or downlocking. It is simply a matter of preference and comfort
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If your rod isn't level, then you'll get epoxy creep and unevenness no matter what you do. Get it centerline level.
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Gentle heat and a thumbnail will pop the cured stuff off.
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Nice seat. Found the slightly bigger pic in your member gallery. Very interesting, and quite ergonomic looking.
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Tweezers to get them out if epoxy is still soft. Gentle heat will settle the disturbed spot. Cut it out if it's hardened, with a razor blade, then apply another light coat.
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Daiwa's AGS (air guide system), uses carbon fiber and ceramic. Very lightweight. However, there is still some steel and a ceramic ring which can still be damaged.
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Linus, that setup will work beautifully. Play around with the spacing to suit the rod, you'll find that's a very good starting setup all round, for up to your 2500- 3000 size reels.
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Apply a coat of epoxy to the blank, let dry, and apply the recap over that. Leave it for a few hours for the adhesive to really get stuck on and dry. With the repellent surface, spray Krylon fixatif and let dry. Then apply the overcoat.
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Fly lines can and do wear snakes and single foot wires, but this usually arises from casting dirty lines. Quite right about not seeing backing on lighter rods, unless you do some crazy flyfishing. My current addiction is urban milkfish on 4 - 6 wts. You get to see a lot of backing on the bigger stamp of fish!
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You should only VERY rarely have to ream EVA. It reams just fine, but because it stretches and compresses, progress is slower. The grip contracts after the reamer stretches it slightly, so in effect material removal is slower. Get your EVA size as close to the blank destination as you can, and install by stretching it into place down the blank. EVA is cheap, get a few pieces more in different siz
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Good lighting can be your best friend when stripping a blank back to naked graphite. I use a dull knife edge or dull single edge razor. Hold it a t 90 degrees to the blank, and just scrape it off. I dow short sections at a time, rotating as I go. Holding the blank at an angle to the light after you've done a full pass round will show any bits you've missed. Only after I've done the whole thing an
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I had that problem, and found I was pushing too hard to get the reamer in. Go slow and let the rotation of the reamer remove material and work its way in. Even under power it is important to go slowly, rotate the grip and not push it too hard. That way you can check your fit before you go too far. I check quite often, cleaning the grip out with a bottle brush every time i stop.
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If your rod's split grip is a long one then the lip of the rod holder can contact the blank directly. Bouncing around it the holder can impact that spot. Also, if a big fish slams a drifted/ trolled bait/lure, or the rig snags while moving, then the pressure on that small area can snap the blank. There's pictures floating around somewhere of the results, and I have pictures of a Pflueger Patr
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Most aluminium checks are anodized. To prevent corrosion, all you should need to do is keep it unscratched and wash clean after use.
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Pac Bay N-frame guide.
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Any two part will work Kevin.
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Incorporating height, ring size and spacing for the static distribution, I usually end up with Y 25, 16, 10, then an 8 fly (L) between the reel and the choke guide.
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I use threaded rod to glue up rings a fair bit. Just like a mandrel, you need to wax it up to prevent sticking. I rub a candle over it till the threads fill up, and spin in against the candle to wax the thread crests. As mentioned, if it does stick, loosening one nut and tihtening the other wing nut will pop the cork free. You can also just unscrew the cork off.
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Braided line to heavy leaders. If you are passing leader knots through the guides, you'll find they hang up a bit. Not all customers like to run 2 stage or wind-on leaders in order to get to the happy compromise.
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On any gimbal I put a couple of wraps of masking tape around the ends. The taper of the gimbal and especially the slicker surface of alloy gimbals seems to really like twisting out. I have my motors on the left and have them rotating towards me (counter-clockwise). Always tighten the chuck and then tighten the lock-nut at the back.
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MLXF taper from St. Croix also fits the bill. 6'3" and 6'9" across the board (SCIII, SCIV and SCV). The Batson IP841 is a great little rod, just ordered an XP to match with the other half's Stella FD. Extended SJ 720's would fit the bill too, with more low end power.
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The popping blank has a faster taper and more low end power.
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Jarvis Walker Brands. We have Pro-Kote at the tackle shop I work in.
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S781, S782, S842, SJ720, P842 should all be able to do that work with ease. With all the new models, plus high modulus, you have a big range to work with. I have been using the rx7 IP841 for all my saltwater ultralight work recently, and between that and my 840 I haven't had the need for another rod just yet. I will be building the p842-2 mhx for a friend in the next few weeks or so. We'll give t
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You have to go into the bit that describes the KR's. Pretty sure I saw the specs in there. The KR micro theory page.
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Keen to know when the 2012 blanks will be released. Especially the NSi enhanced SCIV's!!!
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Thanks guys. Waiting to hear from Matagi.
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Wow, it's been a long time. Had a rod come in for some work a couple days ago, it's an old custom sporting frosted Ti cermets. The rod is a jigging style spin rod, with a tip diameter of 3.4mm, and the ring required is either a 10mm or 12 mm ring. Unfortunately, it transpired that when it was built, there was either a really long wait for the correct size tip, or it was unavailable in the size th
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American Tackle holographic PVD coated rings have a green/gold/purple/pink colour depending on the angle the light strikes it from. Pac Bay Illusion is the same sort of finish too. Pretty sure they are olny available in the illusion/holographic or the TiCH coated frame though.
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