I used drywall mesh on the 11wt I’m building. A drop of UV glue will hold it in place, until the epoxy takes over. You can also use thread and even cork to take up space. I stopped using the foam arbors because they scratch the blank when checking fit.
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My order for a 9" 11 wt. has been delayed, due to manufacturing problems. After spending a few days searching the sponsors and the interweb, I am finding almost zero options, in an 11 wt. fly blank. 2 pc would be nice, but I'll settle for 3 or4. I need something soon, as I am going Musky hunting, in July. I am not totally hung up on the weight deignation, but I have aready bought a couple of
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Just for grins-here's a "very exposed" reel seat. I built this 13 years ago, and still haven't fished it! I sacrificed most of the seat, and just used the threaded portion of the barrel. I'm making a trip to the northwoods of Wisconsin, in July. Hoping to slime it up a bit, on Pike and Smallmouth. Hope the 50" Musky can wait til I bust out the 11 wt. I'm about to build.
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I have a fly rod that only had CP on the wraps. Didn't realize that it wasn't finished, when I took it fishing in a rain storm. The CP held up OK, but it is water soluble, even after it dries. The CP became very milky looking, but was fine, once it dried. I applied Permagloss over it, years after the original layers of CP, and the wraps are perfectly fine.
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sent an emil with complete order. received a call from Mic a day later, confirming payment. 3 days after that the package arrived, with everything I ordered. Email is definitely the answer.
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Thanks, all! Carol was always very helpful, in the past. I will keep trying the phone, and I'll send another e-mail. Sure would be nice if they had a shopping cart on their website.
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I've made 4 phone calls (and left messages) and sent one e-mail, in the last 5 days--no response. Granted, I've always been a bit impatient, but I would think someone on their end would've called me back by now. Is Utmost still up and running? Are they just super-busy right now? Has anyone else been able to place an order lately? I can find most of what I need elsewhere, except for the ALPS
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The plan is to extend the blank far enough to add a fixed fighting butt, without losing any of the working length of the blank. I like a fast blank, and thought I might increase the speed, a litte bit. I'll be using a 4" butt, instead of 3 1/2", so; the rod would effectively be a 9" 2", with a 4" butt.
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I'm trying to put together an order for componenets, and am unsure of which guides best suit my needs. I've used Minimas and SF ceramics, as well as SF wire guides, in the past. All work well, for the various trout rods I've built, but, I've never built a rod to throw 500-600 grains, shooting heads, sinking tips, etc. For this build, I am wondering about wear vs. weight and guide height. I want
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I'm only going to be using it for a few days, on a trip to the Peshtigo Flowage, in Northern Wisconsin. I figure my shoulder will get a work out. I also have a 9' 9 wt. Pike Rod that I built 14 years ago, with the help of this forum. One rod is a backup for the other, practically speaking. I've got plenty of wide open green space grass--time to get into casting shape!!!
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I want to make a 9' 6" 11 wt. fly rod, for Musky fishing. I ran out of patience trying to source that exact blank, so; I've ordered a 9' 11wt. blank, from Rod Geeks, with the idea of extending the butt. I'll be adding a 3 1/2" fighting butt, and don't want to "lose" any of the blank. I realize that lengthening the butt will make the rod faster. Will this make the rod less able
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I mounted this uplocking seat in a downlocking orientation to help balance a 10 foot rod. The recessed hood is set into the fighting butt, instead of the grip, as orginaly intended.
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Experimenting with pheasant feathers.
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This is a rebuild of a Post WWII Japanese spin-fly rod, dropping the reversible handle and the butt section to make a 2 piece 6'9" 5/6 weight fly rod.
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IMHO, this is an easy way to dress up a bamboo rod without being too flashy. Rod is finished with PermaGloss. Feathers wetted with CP, then set on rod. 2 more coats CP, then 3 coats of PG.
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I"m re-posting this rod because 1) I'm bored and 2) I finally figured out how to make a Dardevle theme fly to go with the rod. Split seat is AmTak A7, minus the insert. Threaded barrel trimmed to remove excess metal. Epoxy ramps tinted with red pigment from Sherwin Williams. 9' 8.65 ERN. Guide wraps finished with 3 coats Chromaseal, 3 coats PermaGloss. Grip was the first thing I've
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9' 8.6 ERN fly rod for Pike, dedicated to the greatest Pike lure of all time, Eppinger's "Dardevle". Pac Bay Minima 3 guides. Split reel seat. AmTak A7 seat, without insert. Threaded barrel "trimmed" with a hack saw. Ramps are built with 5 min. epoxy, then applied Flex Coat Lite, tinted with red Sherwin Williams tint. Red Cork Burl accents on grip and butt
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9' 8.6 ERN fly rod for Pike, dedicated to the greatest Pike lure of all time, Eppinger's "Dardevle". Split reel seat is an AmTak A7 seat, without insert. Threaded barrel "trimmed" with a hack saw. Arbors constructed of fiberglas drywall tape. Ramps are built with 5 min. epoxy, then applied Flex Coat Lite, tinted with red Sherwin Williams tint. Red Cork Burl a
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8wt Pike rod. Fly reel seat with out insert. Red-tinted epoxy ramps (Daredevle theme). AmTak A7 skeleton. Threaded barrel with excess removed (hack-saw & mitre box).
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Built this Lamiglas IMP903-3 (6-12# line, 1/4-1/2oz. lure, popping rod) to pair with a Mitchell 300, that I bought in 1974, with some financial assistance from my grandfather (I was just a kid, and had been saving my allowance, but $20 seemed like an impossible amount). I wanted a light rod that could target any FW species, and a few salties, as well. On its first outing, the rod landed a 20&am
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5 minute epoxy to build ramps. Gudebrod A black with silver HT accent. One coat of Permagloss. AmTak Aero reel seat.
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Shakespeare 1362-9 that I completely rebuilt trying to capture some of the "feel" of the original, while using updated componentry. The stripper is the original red agatine.
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Bead head nymph inlay butt cap
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Gudebrod Chestnut and HT Metallic trim, flash exposure.
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Plum Blank, Gudebrod Chestnut, HT Copper Metallic in the sunlight.
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This is my "go to" fly rod. The tamer really helps when shooting the line. U-frame stripper (size 12) and tamer (size 8). Single foot flys (size 6) for runners.
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My first spiral and my first casting rod.
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Mudhole Custom Builder's Blank, Coats and Clark Trilobal Spark Gold, Gudebrod Dark Green, Gudebrod White. "G" is a finger-nail decal. Had great difficulaty getting "G" to adhere, as the Permagloss kept lifting it.
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