Unless you wrap the mono with really wide spaces between wraps, it will reflect light back , and be visible.
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Good luck. Feel free to contact me via e-mail, if you need help, have questions, etc.
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bamboo is very durable; I would imagine it'll do just fine. One of mine was used for 30 years to soak minnows to catch northern pike and walleye, before I reclaimed it, straightened it out, and turned it back into a 5wt. trout stick.
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I've re-done a few of those as fly rods. On all of mine, reel seats and grips were pretty bad. I just used the blanks. It's easy to scrape of the old varnish, using a razor blade, held at a little more than 90 degrees. Coat with Permagloss. Take a look at your ferrules. If they are damaged, you will have a difficult time finding South Bend replacements, especially in an 11/64ths male, althou
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I use the Forhan locking wrap on all single foots, except the first 2-3 at the tip. My thinking is that I would rather have a guide pull loose, than snap a tip.
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sacrifice the blank?
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I used garnet with CP on that blank, and the wraps really "pop". Royal blue and no CP to wrap the ferrules, if you want them to blend in. I would use #2 single foots, provided that they will clear any knots/connections that will be used.
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Try contacting Ricks Rods in Denver. He specializes in bamboo rods from that era. Call him if you don't see it listed. He has a ton of stuff in his shop that you'll never see on his website.
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You might try giving Utmost Enterprises a call. They sometimes have discontinued blanks that aren't advertised on their site.
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Be advised, however, that even isopropyl will still attack some finishes. The old St. Croix black/metallic flake comes to mind. Best to test first, on an area of the blank that won't be visible.
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Mick, Gudebrod is back in business. They may not be producing all colors yet, but Jann's Netcraft has Garnet on their website. Merrick Tackle is a distributor and can tell you which other suppliers are carrying Gudebrod.
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I might try hot melt glue or ferrule cement.
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Don't know if Dave is still in business, but you can drop him a line and see what happens:
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Mel, If you don't already have a set, you may find it helpful to pick up an inexpensive calipers, similar to this: . Get the one that does inside and out side measuremenats. (They also make really nice, digital calipers, that require no converting of fractions, but I like to excercise my aging brain...) For determining the size of a guide with an insert, I measure from outer edge to outer edge
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try here:
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It depends on likely you are to make a mistake, while doing the signature. Bare bamboo will absorb some of the darkened solvent (alcohol) that you use to remove the ink. I would seal the area that you plan on writing on, before you do the signature. Permagloss works pretty well for this.
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I've used pigment (tint?) form Sherwin Williams. It works great, for coloring epoxy. I've never tried to see how much pigment it takes to weaken the epoxy bond, but the small amounts that are actually required, to color the epoxy, don't seem to affect the strengh of the bond.
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Sz 6 Minimas will work fine, and they are, practically speaking, the smallest size I would use, if I had to pass a loop-to-loop connection, through my guide train, while fighting a fish. Size 5's work well for smaller connections (nail knot for instance) or for a loop-to-loop that is not under stress. Minima tip tops (spinning style) are available in a size 6 ring. However, i prefer to use a re
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You could place them where they were before; just follow the "ghost" marks. However, it is likely that they were never placed optimally, in the first place. I would lay them out using static testing, just as i would with a graphite rod. This article tells how do it:. Also, if there is a "set" (or "warp") to the rod, you may wish to place guides on the opposite si
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Titebond III works great.
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I happen to prefer the look of PermaGloss, as it allows the texture of the threads to show through. It looks more "organic", to me, while I think epoxy looks too "plastic". Plus, you can get by with a thinner finish, meaning less weight. 3 coats of PG are sufficient for many rods,and they can be applied within several hours, instead of having to wait overnight, as is the cas
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Kurt, I think you would be best served by buying a book, such as Tom Kirkman's, and reading that first. it will give you a basis of knowledge from which you can seek answers to questions pertinent to the types of rods you want to build. If no one from you area responds on this forum, you might want to ask around at some of the bait and tackle shops. The majority of rodbuilders are not active
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Try Coats and Clark Trilobal Spark Gold. I think it's pretty close.
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I like the way they look... I find them useful when fighting stronger fish, because they allow me to wedge the butt against my belly, and still be able to turn the handle of the reel. Without a fighting butt, the rim of the reel is resting against my gut, making it harder, though certainly not impossible, to spin the reel. Fighting butts also serve to keep the reel out of the dirt, when strin
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Jim, How about "Crafted in the USA" or "Assembled in the USA"? Are either one of those legal to use, in this situation?
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double post
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I have yet to find a rod (although I am constantly looking...) at my local Goodwill or Sally or ARC that I would use to repair a decent rod or extend a blank. I think it makes more sense to buy an inexpensive, new fiberglass or graphite blank. The other option, if you like killing time on a weekend, is to check out your local garage sales
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X2 for Dremel with a sander. I trace the outline of the recessed end of the hood with a mechanical pencil, and try to remove material within the circle , without ever removing any of the tracing of the circle itself. The decorative end of the hood will cover any slight imperfections. Go slowly, and check fit often! Another trick is to glue the hood into the grip first, then attach the rest of
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Peter, Are you sure that you have the proper line for the rod? Even though it is listed as a 5 weight, it may perform better with a 6 wt or a 4 wt line. Also, a 10 foot rod could to be a little more difficult to cast than a shorter rod. The issue may have nothing to do with your guide selection. The Recoil single foots are most likely the lightest guides, in terms of weight, and should cast
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try this: with a small digital scale, no need to count coins
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